Chalk Talk | A Climbing Industry Podcast

Good news, Chalk Talk Podcast listeners, we here at Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast will be partnering with the product reviews of RuggedInnovations.com to bring you audio reviews of some of the latest and greatest climbing products on the market. In episode 1, Ariel Castro of Rugged Innovations offers us in-the-field experience with the Black Diamond Vapor helmet. It is the second lightest climbing helmet on the market. And get this, they make the outer shell from kevlar. It’s like a bullet proof vest for your head! (Don’t test that theory!) Anyway, for the full review, along with pictures, audio, and more, visit the website at RuggedInnovations.com. Word!  

Good news, Chalk Talk Podcast listeners, we here at Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast will be partnering with the product reviews of RuggedInnovations.com to bring you audio reviews of some of the latest and greatest climbing products on the market. In episode 1, Ariel Castro of Rugged Innovations offers us in-the-field experience with the Black Diamond Vapor helmet. It is the second lightest climbing helmet on the market. And get this, they make the outer shell from kevlar. It’s like a bullet proof vest for your head! (Don’t test that theory!) Anyway, for the full review, along with pictures, audio, and more, visit the website at RuggedInnovations.com. Word!  

On the difficulties of running such a vast empire, the future of Touchstone, and all things routesetting. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! *Post-publishing disclaimer-Jeremy listened to the episode and alerted me to the fact that, when we were speaking about the history of Touchstone, he misspoke and referenced City Beach when he meant to say City Rock climbing gym. He sends his deepest apologies and says, “I was nervous” I think we can forgive him* Jeremy Ho is the head routesetter of Touchstone Climbing Gyms. He is responsible for managing a team of routesetters that don’t just worry about spinning holds in one gym, but soon-to-be 12 gyms. And not just your local whosie whatsit gym. If you haven’t seen the Touchstone gyms, they are usually on the bigger side of huge. Their flagship gym (also their first), Mission Cliffs, boasts 23,000 sq/ft of climbing terrain, 50 ft. walls, and 2,000 sq/ft of bouldering terrain. Not to mention their San Francisco bouldering gym, Dogpatch, has 14,000 of bouldering terrain. Needless to say, their routesetters have to be on their game, and Jeremy is the man who coordinates the team. He has been routesetting since 2009 and has since completed his level 3 certification with USA Climbing, set for SCS youth nationals, and hosted a SCS youth regionals and an ABS youth divisionals. If you’re curious about how the setting for these big super gyms happens, or want to know more about setting and comp theory, look no further because Jeremy Ho is the man when it comes to commercial climbing gyms. Show Notes for Jeremy Ho: * The schedule, process, and theory behind setting at Touchstone * The future plans and expansions of the Touchstone empire * Theory of routesetting * Managing a team that spans from San Francisco to Los Angeles * Dealing with setter ego, injuries, and burnout * Bringing comps to Touchstone and their effects * and more….. Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Jeremy Ho: * Touchstone Climbing Gyms * Five Ten * USA Climbing * Climbing Business Journal – “Expanding the Empire” Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On the difficulties of running such a vast empire, the future of Touchstone, and all things routesetting. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! *Post-publishing disclaimer-Jeremy listened to the episode and alerted me to the fact that, when we were speaking about the history of Touchstone, he misspoke and referenced City Beach when he meant to say City Rock climbing gym. He sends his deepest apologies and says, “I was nervous” I think we can forgive him* Jeremy Ho is the head routesetter of Touchstone Climbing Gyms. He is responsible for managing a team of routesetters that don’t just worry about spinning holds in one gym, but soon-to-be 12 gyms. And not just your local whosie whatsit gym. If you haven’t seen the Touchstone gyms, they are usually on the bigger side of huge. Their flagship gym (also their first), Mission Cliffs, boasts 23,000 sq/ft of climbing terrain, 50 ft. walls, and 2,000 sq/ft of bouldering terrain. Not to mention their San Francisco bouldering gym, Dogpatch, has 14,000 of bouldering terrain. Needless to say, their routesetters have to be on their game, and Jeremy is the man who coordinates the team. He has been routesetting since 2009 and has since completed his level 3 certification with USA Climbing, set for SCS youth nationals, and hosted a SCS youth regionals and an ABS youth divisionals. If you’re curious about how the setting for these big super gyms happens, or want to know more about setting and comp theory, look no further because Jeremy Ho is the man when it comes to commercial climbing gyms. Show Notes for Jeremy Ho: * The schedule, process, and theory behind setting at Touchstone * The future plans and expansions of the Touchstone empire * Theory of routesetting * Managing a team that spans from San Francisco to Los Angeles * Dealing with setter ego, injuries, and burnout * Bringing comps to Touchstone and their effects * and more….. Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Jeremy Ho: * Touchstone Climbing Gyms * Five Ten * USA Climbing * Climbing Business Journal – “Expanding the Empire” Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On what it takes to put on a major event, procuring and maintaining relationships with sponsors, and having fun while doing it. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! The Portland Boulder Rally is an amazing climbing competition. It is the largest single day event in the nation and this year it is putting up a $10,000 cash purse to the top 5 male and female competitors. This is the kind of incentive that is driving more than 20 pro climbers (along with most of Portland’s climbing community) to descend upon The Circuit Bouldering Gym this weekend. This year there will be 400 competitors, all competing in the Circuit’s newest and largest gym in Tigard, OR. The competition will take place on Saturday October 4th, 2014, with Louder Than 11 live streaming the finals over the internet beginning at 6:15pm PST. Make sure to head over to PortlandBoulderRally.com to watch the battle for a share of $10,000 unfold. It’s gonna be good! Show Notes with the Portland Boulder Rally: * The Origins of the Portland Boulder Rally * Uniting the boulderers of America * What it takes to put on the largest single-day competition in the nation * Procuring and building relationships with sponsors * Making it better each time. Related Links and Sponsors for the Portland Boulder Rally: * PortlandBoulderRally.com * Portland Boulder Rally Facebook Page * Subaru * Adidas Outdoor Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On what it takes to put on a major event, procuring and maintaining relationships with sponsors, and having fun while doing it. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! The Portland Boulder Rally is an amazing climbing competition. It is the largest single day event in the nation and this year it is putting up a $10,000 cash purse to the top 5 male and female competitors. This is the kind of incentive that is driving more than 20 pro climbers (along with most of Portland’s climbing community) to descend upon The Circuit Bouldering Gym this weekend. This year there will be 400 competitors, all competing in the Circuit’s newest and largest gym in Tigard, OR. The competition will take place on Saturday October 4th, 2014, with Louder Than 11 live streaming the finals over the internet beginning at 6:15pm PST. Make sure to head over to PortlandBoulderRally.com to watch the battle for a share of $10,000 unfold. It’s gonna be good! Show Notes with the Portland Boulder Rally: * The Origins of the Portland Boulder Rally * Uniting the boulderers of America * What it takes to put on the largest single-day competition in the nation * Procuring and building relationships with sponsors * Making it better each time. Related Links and Sponsors for the Portland Boulder Rally: * PortlandBoulderRally.com * Portland Boulder Rally Facebook Page * Subaru * Adidas Outdoor Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On soul searching, fear, and finally deciding what matters most. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is an incredibly driven athlete who can be harder on herself than anyone else. Her progress is clearly visible in the IFSC standings where she rose from 59th place in 2009 to 9th place in 2013. In this episode we talk about her final push for world domination and the physical and emotional battles that she faced. Mina is amazingly well-spoken and fantastic to listen to if you value conversations on the mental aspects of climbing.  Also take the time to check out her blog and the trailer for the new film, “Project Mina” coming out this month! (links below) Show Notes for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: * Rocklands and the Vice (8b/V13) * Her love/hate relationship with competition climbing * Quitting competition climbing…maybe * International competitions and the pressures involved * Drawing inspiration * Training for success * The role of media in climbing * Women in climbing * Setting goals without tearing yourself down * Success vs. Failure Related Links and Sponsors for Episode with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: * www.MinaLeslieWujastyk.com * @minaclimbing on twitter and instagram * https://www.facebook.com/mina.lesliewujastyk * Arc’teryx * Five Ten * British Mountaineering Council * Organic Climbing Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On soul searching, fear, and finally deciding what matters most. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is an incredibly driven athlete who can be harder on herself than anyone else. Her progress is clearly visible in the IFSC standings where she rose from 59th place in 2009 to 9th place in 2013. In this episode we talk about her final push for world domination and the physical and emotional battles that she faced. Mina is amazingly well-spoken and fantastic to listen to if you value conversations on the mental aspects of climbing.  Also take the time to check out her blog and the trailer for the new film, “Project Mina” coming out this month! (links below) Show Notes for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: * Rocklands and the Vice (8b/V13) * Her love/hate relationship with competition climbing * Quitting competition climbing…maybe * International competitions and the pressures involved * Drawing inspiration * Training for success * The role of media in climbing * Women in climbing * Setting goals without tearing yourself down * Success vs. Failure Related Links and Sponsors for Episode with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: * www.MinaLeslieWujastyk.com * @minaclimbing on twitter and instagram * https://www.facebook.com/mina.lesliewujastyk * Arc’teryx * Five Ten * British Mountaineering Council * Organic Climbing Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On training effectively when you can’t climb, nutrition density, and the importance of grades. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for Ander Rockstad: * His early travels to Africa, So. America, and Patagonia * How a climbing video ignited his passion * Why grades are relevant! * Training in 20 hours of sunlight * Maximizing his training while working on an oil field in Alaska * How diet and nutrition has fueled his climbing * Eating for nutrients instead of calories * Creating A-balm Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Ander Rockstad: * AnderRockstad.com * Ander’s Blog * Five Ten * A-Balm * Organic * Darn Tough Vermont * Skoop Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On training effectively when you can’t climb, nutrition density, and the importance of grades. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for Ander Rockstad: * His early travels to Africa, So. America, and Patagonia * How a climbing video ignited his passion * Why grades are relevant! * Training in 20 hours of sunlight * Maximizing his training while working on an oil field in Alaska * How diet and nutrition has fueled his climbing * Eating for nutrients instead of calories * Creating A-balm Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Ander Rockstad: * AnderRockstad.com * Ander’s Blog * Five Ten * A-Balm * Organic * Darn Tough Vermont * Skoop Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On the history and future of the shaping industry, why he wants to strangle routesetters, and the rise of Kilter Grips! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! This is part 2 of a 2 part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. If you haven’t yet, take the time to listen to part one of the series. Ian’s rich, enigmatic narrative is worth the listen and it will catch you up to this episode. Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves back into the history of starting eGrips with little to no money, and elaborates on his visions for the future of the hold shaping industry. Jackie does her best to keep him on track…no promises. Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90’s. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later. Ian Powell began shaping for Straight Up holds with buddy Ty Foose. Eventually, Ian began eGrips and called on Ty to help him get the company up to speed. Wait…why am I telling you this? Just listen to the episode. Ian’s more fun to listen to anyway. Show Notes on episode with Ian Powell: * Wherein Ian finally gets into the history of eGrips * The introduction of polyurethane holds * The hold shaping renaissance of the 90’s (featuring such classic shapers as: Ty Foose, Clark Shelk, Rob Mulligan, Louie Anderson, Mike Call, Mark Russo, Boone Speed, Tony Yaniro, and Ian Glass) * The hopes and dreams for the future of the hold shaping industry * Why he sometimes wants to strangle routesetters * And the future of hold shaping (featuring the new prodigies: Jason Kehl, Peter Juhl, Will Anglin) * Design philosophy and economics * And how Kilter is trying to innovate as a new company in a flooded market Related Links and Sponsors with Ian Powell: * Kilter Grips Website! * Rock and Ice article about Ian Powell * Check out episode 8 – (Part 1) w/ Ian Powell * Also, listen to episode 4 – w/ Jackie Hueftle Videos: Photo Gallery: *Quick note: in this this new episode of Chalk Talk, I mention that you can see photos of Ian’s sculpture artwork on the website. However, Ian didn’t like the selection that I put on the site and is currently scanning new photos and sending them to me. Stand by…* Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On the history and future of the shaping industry, why he wants to strangle routesetters, and the rise of Kilter Grips! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! This is part 2 of a 2 part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. If you haven’t yet, take the time to listen to part one of the series. Ian’s rich, enigmatic narrative is worth the listen and it will catch you up to this episode. Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves back into the history of starting eGrips with little to no money, and elaborates on his visions for the future of the hold shaping industry. Jackie does her best to keep him on track…no promises. Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90’s. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later. Ian Powell began shaping for Straight Up holds with buddy Ty Foose. Eventually, Ian began eGrips and called on Ty to help him get the company up to speed. Wait…why am I telling you this? Just listen to the episode. Ian’s more fun to listen to anyway. Show Notes on episode with Ian Powell: * Wherein Ian finally gets into the history of eGrips * The introduction of polyurethane holds * The hold shaping renaissance of the 90’s (featuring such classic shapers as: Ty Foose, Clark Shelk, Rob Mulligan, Louie Anderson, Mike Call, Mark Russo, Boone Speed, Tony Yaniro, and Ian Glass) * The hopes and dreams for the future of the hold shaping industry * Why he sometimes wants to strangle routesetters * And the future of hold shaping (featuring the new prodigies: Jason Kehl, Peter Juhl, Will Anglin) * Design philosophy and economics * And how Kilter is trying to innovate as a new company in a flooded market Related Links and Sponsors with Ian Powell: * Kilter Grips Website! * Rock and Ice article about Ian Powell * Check out episode 8 – (Part 1) w/ Ian Powell * Also, listen to episode 4 – w/ Jackie Hueftle Videos: Photo Gallery: *Quick note: in this this new episode of Chalk Talk, I mention that you can see photos of Ian’s sculpture artwork on the website. However, Ian didn’t like the selection that I put on the site and is currently scanning new photos and sending them to me. Stand by…* Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On his history of shaping, inspirations, and learning curves. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! This is part 1 of a 2 part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. After enjoying this episode, make sure to find your way to part 2. It’s just as exciting and smile inducing as the episode you’re about to embark upon. Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves into his process of hold shaping and the origins of Kilter Grips. Jackie does her best to keep him on track…no promises. Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90’s. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later. Show Notes: * Egrips, Straight Up holds, Ty Foose, and how Ian began shaping * The origins of Kilter Grips * His process of shaping and where his inspiration comes from * Learning curves * What’s missing in the hold market * The interrelationship between setting and hold shaping * and lots of Ian’s tangential qualities…. Related Links and Sponsors: * Kilter Grips Website! * Rock and Ice article about Ian Powell * Reddit “Ask Me Anything” w/ Ian * Listen to episode 4 – w/ Jackie Hueftle Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On his history of shaping, inspirations, and learning curves. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! This is part 1 of a 2 part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. After enjoying this episode, make sure to find your way to part 2. It’s just as exciting and smile inducing as the episode you’re about to embark upon. Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves into his process of hold shaping and the origins of Kilter Grips. Jackie does her best to keep him on track…no promises. Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90’s. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later. Show Notes: * Egrips, Straight Up holds, Ty Foose, and how Ian began shaping * The origins of Kilter Grips * His process of shaping and where his inspiration comes from * Learning curves * What’s missing in the hold market * The interrelationship between setting and hold shaping * and lots of Ian’s tangential qualities…. Related Links and Sponsors: * Kilter Grips Website! * Rock and Ice article about Ian Powell * Reddit “Ask Me Anything” w/ Ian * Listen to episode 4 – w/ Jackie Hueftle Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On hold shaping, gym ownership, and creating the world’s first routesetting competition. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! If you’re looking for the renaissance man of climbing, look no further, Louie Anderson is a known freelance hold shaper, gym owner, routesetter, author, climbing wall designer, and social media community leader. He has written a book on the fundamentals of routesetting, and has authored a guidebook on climbing in the Santa Monica mountains. As a freelance hold shaper, Louie has greatly influenced the way that holds are imagined. He has shaped for over 20 different climbing hold companies including: ETCH, Climb It, SoIll, Rock Candy, and Kingdom, just to name a few. His shapes can vary from the basic, to the unique, to the realistic; varying in size from tiny, intricate foot holds, to features as big as a small adult. And if shaping, routesetting, gym owning, putting up FA’s, and authoring guide books and books on routesetting wasn’t enough, Louie Anderson is also an active climbing wall designer and gym builder. He has been a part of the design and build of many of So. California’s gyms and has recently helped with the design and construction of the new Refuge Climbing Center in Las Vegas, set to open in October. Louie is always seeking to advance climbing in whatever way he can. Just last year he was one of the minds that brought the Kingdom Games to fruition. The Kingdom Games are a new kind of competition, one that test the skills of routesetters. The first emanation of the Kingdom Games happened at Louie’s gym in So. California, The Factory. This year, the routesetteing competition will be held at the Earth Treks Climbing Center in Rockville, Maryland on September 5th and 6th, and will be renamed as the Setter Showdown. to learn how the Setter Showdown will work, what the judges will be looking for, and everything else Louie, pop in those earbuds and turn up the volume to Episode 7 of Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast. Show Notes: * How he started shaping and setting before climbing gyms existed (think, freeway overpasses). * The advent of So. Cal’s first climbing gym and what it brought to the community. * His first hold shapes and how that process has evolved. * How he creates his shapes from conception to final product. * How he decides what shapes to sculpt. * Hold ergonomics * On the gym bubble and the sustainability of the rapid growth of the climbing industry. * What he thinks it takes to stand out in a hold market that is saturated. * The introduction, function, and future of routesetting competitions such as last year’s Kingdom Games and the up coming Setter Showdown in Earth Treks, Maryland. * And what Louie hopes these setters games can teach us about the routesetting community. Related Links and Sponsors: * The Factory Bouldering Gym * The Setters Showdown Routesetting Competition * Link to Louie’s book “The Fundamentals of Routesetting” Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for