Chalk Talk | A Climbing Industry Podcast

On why they wanted to bring a new product into a saturated market, what science the’re cooking up in the lab, and you can’t turn a corner without hearing about Friction Labs’ chalk! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Friction Labs’ chalk seems to be the talk of the town these days. Everywhere we look someone is saying, “Friction Labs this…or Friction Labs that…” and most of it is about how good the product works. But… it’s just chalk, right?… Right?! On this week’s episode, Kevin and Keah of Friction Labs tell us exactly why their chalk is superior. (hint): they do science and stuff. If you want to know what all the fuss is about, check it out! Show Notes for episode with Friction Labs: * Why they jumped into a market that is already saturated with product * The early processes and experiments for making chalk better * What it means when they “do science” is that they actually use a lab * The results of doing “science things” to their chalk * The difference between Friction Labs and everyone else * But does their product work too well? * How important design and marketing was in their initial business plan * They spill the beans about their ‘Secret Stuff’ * What’s the difference between the three main Friction Labs product and which Kevin and Keah prefer * The deets on their super cool monthly subscription plan * The idea behind their Ambassador and Sponsorship programs, and why it seems like they sponsor everyone and their brother Related Links and Sponsors for Friction Labs: * FrictionLabs.com * Friction Labs’ Facebook * Beast Kong Review of Friction Labs chalk (really good!) Videos featuring Friction Labs: Help Friction Labs stop Frictile Disfunction by watching this video here! Photo Gallery of Friction Labs: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

A roundup of the 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Toronto, Canada May 30th-31st… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! This is the first of Chalk Talk’s 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Roundups. I can’t tell you how excited I am for this season of World Cup bouldering. There are more Americans involved than ever. USA Climbing has been attempting to fundraise for athletes along with some athletes reaching out to the community with crowdfunding efforts. The European contingent is looking strong with Jule Wurm and Jan Hojer winning the European Bouldering Championships, Adam Ondra is competing, and Anna Stohr is back after nursing a finger injury last season.  The plan is to produce an episode after each of the World Cup competitions with analysis, feedback, and awe from myself, Jackie Hueftle, and anyone else I can wrangle worth speaking to about this season. So check back after each World Cup event for more coverage here on the 2015 World Cpu Roundup!   Show Notes for episode for 2015 World Cup Roundup: * Coverage by The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine * Expectations coming into the season’s first competition * The American hopefuls in Toronto and coming into Vail * Routesetting and how new holds, new walls, and some oversight may have affected the climbers * The new faces dominating the men’s podium, Nathaniel Coleman (USA) and Alban Levier (FRA) * Expectations for the upcoming Vail World Cup in Colorado next weekend * Thoughts on how the women will do next week Related Links and Sponsors for 2015 World Cup Roundup: * The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine – www.TheCircuitClimbing.com * IFSC Website – www.ifsc-climbing.org * The Spot Routesetting Blog – www.SpotSettingBlog.wordpress.com * Also, listen back to the past episodes: * Ep.4 – “Setting, Comps, and Hueco Tanks” w/ Jackie Hueftle * Ep. 8 – Ian Powell and Jackie Hueftle of Kilter Grips (part 1) * Ep.9 – Ian Powell and Jackie Hueftle of Kilter Grips (part 2) Videos featuring 2015 World Cup Roundup: Photo Gallery of 2015 World Cup Roundup: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

A roundup of the 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Toronto, Canada May 30th-31st… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! This is the first of Chalk Talk’s 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Roundups. I can’t tell you how excited I am for this season of World Cup bouldering. There are more Americans involved than ever. USA Climbing has been attempting to fundraise for athletes along with some athletes reaching out to the community with crowdfunding efforts. The European contingent is looking strong with Jule Wurm and Jan Hojer winning the European Bouldering Championships, Adam Ondra is competing, and Anna Stohr is back after nursing a finger injury last season.  The plan is to produce an episode after each of the World Cup competitions with analysis, feedback, and awe from myself, Jackie Hueftle, and anyone else I can wrangle worth speaking to about this season. So check back after each World Cup event for more coverage here on the 2015 World Cpu Roundup!   Show Notes for episode for 2015 World Cup Roundup: * Coverage by The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine * Expectations coming into the season’s first competition * The American hopefuls in Toronto and coming into Vail * Routesetting and how new holds, new walls, and some oversight may have affected the climbers * The new faces dominating the men’s podium, Nathaniel Coleman (USA) and Alban Levier (FRA) * Expectations for the upcoming Vail World Cup in Colorado next weekend * Thoughts on how the women will do next week Related Links and Sponsors for 2015 World Cup Roundup: * The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine – www.TheCircuitClimbing.com * IFSC Website – www.ifsc-climbing.org * The Spot Routesetting Blog – www.SpotSettingBlog.wordpress.com * Also, listen back to the past episodes: * Ep.4 – “Setting, Comps, and Hueco Tanks” w/ Jackie Hueftle * Ep. 8 – Ian Powell and Jackie Hueftle of Kilter Grips (part 1) * Ep.9 – Ian Powell and Jackie Hueftle of Kilter Grips (part 2) Videos featuring 2015 World Cup Roundup: Photo Gallery of 2015 World Cup Roundup: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On how she prioritizes her busy life, being a role model and athlete in the days of social media, and how she feels after sending… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Sasha DiGiulian is a power house of the climbing scene. She is one of the few women in the world to send 5.14d and has won multiple local and national competitions. Along with climbing in the upper echelon of super senders, Sasha DiGiulian attends Columbia University, works with non-profit organizations, attends public events, and speaks at events about her experience. Sasha DiGiulian manages to somehow juggle all of this and keep it together, and in this episode she tells us how! Show Notes for episode with Sasha DiGiulian: * How Sasha stays on top of attending events, public speaking, school at Columbia University, training, and climbing for fun without going insane * What Sasha plans to do with the shiny college degree she’s working on * What it means to be an athlete and role model in the days of social media * How she has seen the public perception of climbing change in recent years * Evolving specializations in the sport of climbing * The dream-like feeling she gets after sending her projects Related Links and Sponsors for Sasha DiGiulian: * Sasha’s Homepage | www.Sasha-DiGiulian.com * Right to Play | www.righttoplayusa.org * Red Bull Sasha| www.redbull.com Videos featuring Sasha DiGiulian: Photo Gallery of Sasha DiGiulian: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On how she prioritizes her busy life, being a role model and athlete in the days of social media, and how she feels after sending… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Sasha DiGiulian is a power house of the climbing scene. She is one of the few women in the world to send 5.14d and has won multiple local and national competitions. Along with climbing in the upper echelon of super senders, Sasha DiGiulian attends Columbia University, works with non-profit organizations, attends public events, and speaks at events about her experience. Sasha DiGiulian manages to somehow juggle all of this and keep it together, and in this episode she tells us how! Show Notes for episode with Sasha DiGiulian: * How Sasha stays on top of attending events, public speaking, school at Columbia University, training, and climbing for fun without going insane * What Sasha plans to do with the shiny college degree she’s working on * What it means to be an athlete and role model in the days of social media * How she has seen the public perception of climbing change in recent years * Evolving specializations in the sport of climbing * The dream-like feeling she gets after sending her projects Related Links and Sponsors for Sasha DiGiulian: * Sasha’s Homepage | www.Sasha-DiGiulian.com * Right to Play | www.righttoplayusa.org * Red Bull Sasha| www.redbull.com Videos featuring Sasha DiGiulian: Photo Gallery of Sasha DiGiulian: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the effect that climbing is having on the South African communities, starting a climbing school, and what you can do to help… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! JP Du Plessis is a journalist from South Africa. He has been living on the De Pakhuys farm for a handful of years now at the base of many of the bouldering areas in the Rocklands. He watches as season after season, climbers flood the area and enjoy the bounty of bouldering the area has to offer. Now, JP DuPlessis tells us what sort of impact these climbers are having on the area. He has recently started a climbing school for the local children, many of whom are under privileged in a huge way. JP DuPlessis is watching as climbing grows in the area and wants to foster the future through these young promising locals. Show Notes for episode with JP Du Pleissis: * A fantastic description of the Rocklands and the Cederberg Mountains. * The lives of the local children and how the climbing community is impacting them * The climbing school that JP and some other locals have started to get the kids out * Trying to raise money to start a competitive youth climbing team in South Africa * The positives and negatives to the impact of the climbing community Related Links and Sponsors for JP Du Plessis: * JP DuPlessis’ Facebook Page | Connect with him to help the Rockland’s local climbing community! * The De Pakhuys Ranch Campground Photo Gallery of JP Du Plessis: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the effect that climbing is having on the South African communities, starting a climbing school, and what you can do to help… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! JP Du Plessis is a journalist from South Africa. He has been living on the De Pakhuys farm for a handful of years now at the base of many of the bouldering areas in the Rocklands. He watches as season after season, climbers flood the area and enjoy the bounty of bouldering the area has to offer. Now, JP DuPlessis tells us what sort of impact these climbers are having on the area. He has recently started a climbing school for the local children, many of whom are under privileged in a huge way. JP DuPlessis is watching as climbing grows in the area and wants to foster the future through these young promising locals. Show Notes for episode with JP Du Pleissis: * A fantastic description of the Rocklands and the Cederberg Mountains. * The lives of the local children and how the climbing community is impacting them * The climbing school that JP and some other locals have started to get the kids out * Trying to raise money to start a competitive youth climbing team in South Africa * The positives and negatives to the impact of the climbing community Related Links and Sponsors for JP Du Plessis: * JP DuPlessis’ Facebook Page | Connect with him to help the Rockland’s local climbing community! * The De Pakhuys Ranch Campground Photo Gallery of JP Du Plessis: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the importance of an optimized diet for climbing success, supplements and nutrition bars, and when to say, ‘yes!’ to baby food… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Aicacia Young is a registered dietician who has jumped through many-a hoops to get where she is now. Aicacia has carved out a little niche for herself as a dietician with an emphasis on the climbing lifestyle. Though Aicacia can diagnose and suggest diets for many ailments, her favorite is how to optimize the climbers diet for peak performance. She even went so far as to write a book on the subject, which can be purchased on her website ClimbHealthy.com. On ClimbHealthy.com Aicacia Young also writes regular articles on health and well-being. Show Notes for episode with Aicacia Young: * Will eating an optimized diet actually improve your climbing? * Why diet is important after 30 * Her path from traditional nutrition to more specialized diet and nutrition * Understanding the sport of climbing and the dietary needs of climbers * How to assess if you need to cut certain foods out of your diet * Wondering if Cliff Bars, Pro Bars, Lara Bars, etc. are worth eating at the crag? * Did she say baby food?! * And the verdict on alcohol… it’s what you expect Related Links and Sponsors for Aicacia Young: * Visit Acacia’s website – ClimbHealthy.com * Buy the book! * Also, follow Aicacia Young on  Instagram @climbhealthy and @memoirs_of_aicacia Photo Gallery of Aicacia Young: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the importance of an optimized diet for climbing success, supplements and nutrition bars, and when to say, ‘yes!’ to baby food… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Aicacia Young is a registered dietician who has jumped through many-a hoops to get where she is now. Aicacia has carved out a little niche for herself as a dietician with an emphasis on the climbing lifestyle. Though Aicacia can diagnose and suggest diets for many ailments, her favorite is how to optimize the climbers diet for peak performance. She even went so far as to write a book on the subject, which can be purchased on her website ClimbHealthy.com. On ClimbHealthy.com Aicacia Young also writes regular articles on health and well-being. Show Notes for episode with Aicacia Young: * Will eating an optimized diet actually improve your climbing? * Why diet is important after 30 * Her path from traditional nutrition to more specialized diet and nutrition * Understanding the sport of climbing and the dietary needs of climbers * How to assess if you need to cut certain foods out of your diet * Wondering if Cliff Bars, Pro Bars, Lara Bars, etc. are worth eating at the crag? * Did she say baby food?! * And the verdict on alcohol… it’s what you expect Related Links and Sponsors for Aicacia Young: * Visit Acacia’s website – ClimbHealthy.com * Buy the book! * Also, follow Aicacia Young on  Instagram @climbhealthy and @memoirs_of_aicacia Photo Gallery of Aicacia Young: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the efforts of Climbing Business Journal, the growing statistics and economics of gyms, and the future of our industry… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Mike Helt and Marlowe Kulley are the owners and administrators of Climbing Business Journal, the climbing industry’s greatest news source. Through CBJ, they are culling information about the climbing industry in hopes of creating a database of facts and numbers that can help owners and future investors better understand the industry and where it is headed. Show Notes for episode with Climbing Business Journal: * The short, but glorious life of Routesetter.com * How trying to re-brand Routesetter.com gave birth to Climbing Business Journal * Their attempts at creating a database of statistics for the climbing industry * What trends American climbing gyms are seeing based on these statistics * Climbing industry growth and how much the market can sustain * Is climbing just a fad that is living in its heyday * So just how many gyms are there in the U.S.? * What’s the industry’s projected growth rate? * Which business model works the best? (Co-op, bouldering, full service, etc.) * What sort of population is necessary to support a climbing gym? * What the closing rate for climbing gyms is in America * And What the future holds for Climbing Business Journal Related Links and Sponsors for Climbing Business Journal: * Climbing Business Journal website  Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the efforts of Climbing Business Journal, the growing statistics and economics of gyms, and the future of our industry… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Mike Helt and Marlowe Kulley are the owners and administrators of Climbing Business Journal, the climbing industry’s greatest news source. Through CBJ, they are culling information about the climbing industry in hopes of creating a database of facts and numbers that can help owners and future investors better understand the industry and where it is headed. Show Notes for episode with Climbing Business Journal: * The short, but glorious life of Routesetter.com * How trying to re-brand Routesetter.com gave birth to Climbing Business Journal * Their attempts at creating a database of statistics for the climbing industry * What trends American climbing gyms are seeing based on these statistics * Climbing industry growth and how much the market can sustain * Is climbing just a fad that is living in its heyday * So just how many gyms are there in the U.S.? * What’s the industry’s projected growth rate? * Which business model works the best? (Co-op, bouldering, full service, etc.) * What sort of population is necessary to support a climbing gym? * What the closing rate for climbing gyms is in America * And What the future holds for Climbing Business Journal Related Links and Sponsors for Climbing Business Journal: * Climbing Business Journal website  Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On receiving his diagnosis of terminal cancer, growing the Climbers Against Cancer charity, and attempting to build a legacy that will live on in the hands of climbers worldwide…. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Climbers Against Cancer: * John talks about his diagnosis of terminal cancer and the effect that had on him and his family * His natural positivity and how it helps everyone around him cope * How being open about his life with cancer helps friends and family feel more comfortable * How helping to raise money for a charity led him to want to do more * What it took to get the Climbers Against Cancer charity up and running * The flood of support…and work that came with the charity’s success * Watching the community grow and why climbing is so special * Why CAC has successfully donated to 7 different cancer charities in 7 different countries *  How to become involved on an individual level, as a company, or as a gym to help CAC * The truth behind true happiness that John has learned Related Links and Sponsors for Climbers Against Cancer: * Visit the CAC website * Buy a CAC T-shirt! * Selflessly Donate to Climbers Against Cancer here… Videos featuring Climbers Against Cancer: Photo Gallery of Climbers Against Cancer: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On receiving his diagnosis of terminal cancer, growing the Climbers Against Cancer charity, and attempting to build a legacy that will live on in the hands of climbers worldwide…. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Climbers Against Cancer: * John talks about his diagnosis of terminal cancer and the effect that had on him and his family * His natural positivity and how it helps everyone around him cope * How being open about his life with cancer helps friends and family feel more comfortable * How helping to raise money for a charity led him to want to do more * What it took to get the Climbers Against Cancer charity up and running * The flood of support…and work that came with the charity’s success * Watching the community grow and why climbing is so special * Why CAC has successfully donated to 7 different cancer charities in 7 different countries *  How to become involved on an individual level, as a company, or as a gym to help CAC * The truth behind true happiness that John has learned Related Links and Sponsors for Climbers Against Cancer: * Visit the CAC website * Buy a CAC T-shirt! * Selflessly Donate to Climbers Against Cancer here… Videos featuring Climbers Against Cancer: Photo Gallery of Climbers Against Cancer: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On quarter-life crisis’, how he is preparing for the upcoming World Cup circuit, and his recent bouldering trip to Puerto Rico Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Josh Larson: * How he left climbing for a ‘real job’ and realized that it was no life for him * The journey from 4 years of no climbing to pulling V13 * What drives him to compete in climbing competitions * How his IFSC World Cup experience in Toronto last year helped him to succeed in Vail * The difference in experience and ability of the competitors from ABS Open to World Cups * His competition strategy for success * His plans for attending all five World Cups this year in 4 countries * How he is preparing to be on the top of his game * And his recent trip to Puerto Rico to climb on and develop boulders Related Links and Sponsors for Josh Larson: * Josh Larson’s website – www.Thepushtosend.com * Cold House Media Videos featuring Josh Larson: Photo Gallery of Josh Larson: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On quarter-life crisis’, how he is preparing for the upcoming World Cup circuit, and his recent bouldering trip to Puerto Rico Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Josh Larson: * How he left climbing for a ‘real job’ and realized that it was no life for him * The journey from 4 years of no climbing to pulling V13 * What drives him to compete in climbing competitions * How his IFSC World Cup experience in Toronto last year helped him to succeed in Vail * The difference in experience and ability of the competitors from ABS Open to World Cups * His competition strategy for success * His plans for attending all five World Cups this year in 4 countries * How he is preparing to be on the top of his game * And his recent trip to Puerto Rico to climb on and develop boulders Related Links and Sponsors for Josh Larson: * Josh Larson’s website – www.Thepushtosend.com * Cold House Media Videos featuring Josh Larson: Photo Gallery of Josh Larson: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!