Chalk Talk | A Climbing Industry Podcast

 On the origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous, what to expect, and why events like this are so important to the climbing community… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! The Red Rock Rendezvous is one of the nation’s largest climbing festivals. During the 3 day event, climbers of all abilities can take clinics from top athletes in the sport. Phil Bridgers is the event coordinator and deals with just about every aspect of this event directly. In this episode he shares his experience and hopes for the coming Red Rock Rendezvous on March 27th-29th, 2015. Show Notes for episode with Red Rock Rendezvous: * The origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous * Why Paul Fish of Mountain Gear and Dennis Gafvert of The North Face wanted to create a climbing festival * An explanation of the festivities at the RRR: Clinics, Food, Beer, Music, etc… * How they are monitoring the festival’s impact on the area and minimizing any negative repercussions * The athletes and climbers teaching the clinics including: Hans Florine, Alex Johnson, Chris Schulte, Peter Croft, and more * How to plan your weekend if you are attending * And which athlete can’t stay out of the photo booth Related Links and Sponsors for Red Rock Rendezvous: * The Red Rock Rendezvous website Videos featuring Red Rock Rendezvous: Photo Gallery of Red Rock Rendezvous: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous, what to expect, and why events like this are so important to the climbing community… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! The Red Rock Rendezvous is one of the nation’s largest climbing festivals. During the 3 day event, climbers of all abilities can take clinics from top athletes in the sport. Phil Bridgers is the event coordinator and deals with just about every aspect of this event directly. In this episode he shares his experience and hopes for the coming Red Rock Rendezvous on March 27th-29th, 2015. Show Notes for episode with Red Rock Rendezvous: * The origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous * Why Paul Fish of Mountain Gear and Dennis Gafvert of The North Face wanted to create a climbing festival * An explanation of the festivities at the RRR: Clinics, Food, Beer, Music, etc… * How they are monitoring the festival’s impact on the area and minimizing any negative repercussions * The athletes and climbers teaching the clinics including: Hans Florine, Alex Johnson, Chris Schulte, Peter Croft, and more * How to plan your weekend if you are attending * And which athlete can’t stay out of the photo booth Related Links and Sponsors for Red Rock Rendezvous: * The Red Rock Rendezvous website Videos featuring Red Rock Rendezvous: Photo Gallery of Red Rock Rendezvous: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On frequent first ascents, what V16 really means, and plans for his biggest bouldering adventure yet! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Paul Robinson is one of the world’s best boulderers. If you didn’t know that already, you better get schooled because this guy has put down countless numbers of the world’s hardest boulder problems. He has opened up bouldering areas and fought to push climbing’s limits around the globe. In this episode Paul Robinson discusses why he does it and what the future has in store for him. Show Notes for episode with Paul Robinson: * His trip and highlights from climbing in the Dirty South * Traveling woes and excitements * Why seeking and sending new lines is so important to him * Gaining the vision to see new lines on unclimbed rock * Putting down 50+ FA’s last Summer in South Africa and all its future potential * The responsibility and plight of the First Ascensionist to provide accurate grades and sweet names * Why a lot of FA’s tend to get downgraded * Advice from Carlo Traversi on grading FA’s * Is V16 a thing yet? * Thinking back on his most memorable sends * The big trip he’s planning that will result in total world domination (hint: South Africa, Australia, Europe, Oman, Bolivia, Argentina, China, Norway, Alaska, and on….and on… and…) Related Links and Sponsors* for Paul Robinson: * Paul’s Website * Prana* * Asana* * Evolv* * Cliff Bar*  * Petzl* * Soill* * JTree* Videos featuring Paul Robinson: Photo Gallery of Paul Robinson: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On frequent first ascents, what V16 really means, and plans for his biggest bouldering adventure yet! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Paul Robinson is one of the world’s best boulderers. If you didn’t know that already, you better get schooled because this guy has put down countless numbers of the world’s hardest boulder problems. He has opened up bouldering areas and fought to push climbing’s limits around the globe. In this episode Paul Robinson discusses why he does it and what the future has in store for him. Show Notes for episode with Paul Robinson: * His trip and highlights from climbing in the Dirty South * Traveling woes and excitements * Why seeking and sending new lines is so important to him * Gaining the vision to see new lines on unclimbed rock * Putting down 50+ FA’s last Summer in South Africa and all its future potential * The responsibility and plight of the First Ascensionist to provide accurate grades and sweet names * Why a lot of FA’s tend to get downgraded * Advice from Carlo Traversi on grading FA’s * Is V16 a thing yet? * Thinking back on his most memorable sends * The big trip he’s planning that will result in total world domination (hint: South Africa, Australia, Europe, Oman, Bolivia, Argentina, China, Norway, Alaska, and on….and on… and…) Related Links and Sponsors* for Paul Robinson: * Paul’s Website * Prana* * Asana* * Evolv* * Cliff Bar*  * Petzl* * Soill* * JTree* Videos featuring Paul Robinson: Photo Gallery of Paul Robinson: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On the science of bad habits, fear and stress management on the wall, and training the brain game for the vertical world Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Don McGrath is a climber and author of Vertical Mind, 50 Athletes Over 50, The Five Climbing Mindsets, and his blog at Masterrockclimber.com. In his newest book, Vertical Mind, Don McGrath and his co-author Jeff Ellison seek to understand fear, doubt, and how to break the bad habits that we learn as climbers. There’s a lot of science and research that went into this book and it is a great read for anyone looking to master their vertical mind. Show Notes for episode with Don McGrath: * What spurred his interest in training the brain for climbing * How schemas and scripts write habit into our climbing * How those habits can ultimately hurt us and hold us back * How to create productive scripts in our climbing * The fear of falling and the fear of failing * Methods for dealing with fear * Stress management on the wall * How to recognize our own bad habits * How to be a better climbing partner through ‘co-creative coaching’ * How to coach significant others without ending up in the doghouse * What exactly is a flow state and how to attain it Related Links and Sponsors for Don McGrath: * Don’s website and blog – masterrockclimber.com * The Vertical Mind book website * Vertical Mind Facebook Page Videos featuring Don McGrath: Photo Gallery of Don McGrath: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On the science of bad habits, fear and stress management on the wall, and training the brain game for the vertical world Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Don McGrath is a climber and author of Vertical Mind, 50 Athletes Over 50, The Five Climbing Mindsets, and his blog at Masterrockclimber.com. In his newest book, Vertical Mind, Don McGrath and his co-author Jeff Ellison seek to understand fear, doubt, and how to break the bad habits that we learn as climbers. There’s a lot of science and research that went into this book and it is a great read for anyone looking to master their vertical mind. Show Notes for episode with Don McGrath: * What spurred his interest in training the brain for climbing * How schemas and scripts write habit into our climbing * How those habits can ultimately hurt us and hold us back * How to create productive scripts in our climbing * The fear of falling and the fear of failing * Methods for dealing with fear * Stress management on the wall * How to recognize our own bad habits * How to be a better climbing partner through ‘co-creative coaching’ * How to coach significant others without ending up in the doghouse * What exactly is a flow state and how to attain it Related Links and Sponsors for Don McGrath: * Don’s website and blog – masterrockclimber.com * The Vertical Mind book website * Vertical Mind Facebook Page Videos featuring Don McGrath: Photo Gallery of Don McGrath: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On how to diagnose, prevent, and recover properly from climbing’s most notorious injuries, cross-training for climbing and its benefits, and researching a fledgling sport. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Climbing Injuries Solved: * Why doctors default to telling you to “take time off” when you have an injury * The anatomy and physiology of the parts we injure * How safe climbing is compared to other popular sports * How most injuries can be prevented before they become an issue * Why some people get injured more than others * What you can do beyond just ‘listening to your body’ to stay injury free * Self care tools and how to use them * How much you should rely on taping to heal or support injuries * Diagnosing a pulley tear * Cross training for climbing: yoga and crossfit * Tips for athletes competing in this week’s upcoming ABS open and youth bouldering competition in Madison, Wisconsin Related Links and Products for Climbing Injuries Solved: * Climbing Injuries Solved Facebook Page (like it!) * Climbing Injuries Solved Book website * Dr. Lisa Erikson’s Lifesport Chiropractic Page * Rock Tape (Kinesio Tape) Videos featuring Climbing Injuries Solved: Photo Gallery of Climbing Injuries Solved: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On how to diagnose, prevent, and recover properly from climbing’s most notorious injuries, cross-training for climbing and its benefits, and researching a fledgling sport. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Climbing Injuries Solved: * Why doctors default to telling you to “take time off” when you have an injury * The anatomy and physiology of the parts we injure * How safe climbing is compared to other popular sports * How most injuries can be prevented before they become an issue * Why some people get injured more than others * What you can do beyond just ‘listening to your body’ to stay injury free * Self care tools and how to use them * How much you should rely on taping to heal or support injuries * Diagnosing a pulley tear * Cross training for climbing: yoga and crossfit * Tips for athletes competing in this week’s upcoming ABS open and youth bouldering competition in Madison, Wisconsin Related Links and Products for Climbing Injuries Solved: * Climbing Injuries Solved Facebook Page (like it!) * Climbing Injuries Solved Book website * Dr. Lisa Erikson’s Lifesport Chiropractic Page * Rock Tape (Kinesio Tape) Videos featuring Climbing Injuries Solved: Photo Gallery of Climbing Injuries Solved: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On Portrero Chico, climbing photography, and the freelance life. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Alton Richardson is a badass. This guy rolls around with a camera and captures everything climbing. From shimmering sunsets over sexy crags to super sends from some of the sickest ascension-ists, this guy captures it all. Whether it’s still life or video, Alton Richardson is there and prepared. He has worked for RAB, La Sportiva, Climbing Magazine, and has even started his own regional climbing magazine for California. (It’s pretty cool, too!) Listen to this episode to learn a bit about how Alton Richardson gets the shots that stir the pot and what he looks to accomplish with them! Show Notes for episode with Alton Richardson: * Starting California Climber, a quarterly magazine with co-founder Dean Flemming * Being on assignment in Chattanooga, Tennessee as a photographer, videographer, and gear tester * The freelance life * How he manages his time as a freelancer and stays ahead of the game * Planning shots * Cultivating relationships with media outlets for future work * Traveling on assignment to Portrero Chico, Mexico and the tragedy that happened * Techniques for shooting climbing * What he likes photographing the most…and it’s not what you think Related Links and Sponsors for Alton Richardson: * Alton Richardson’s Photography website * ARG Media’s Facebook Page Videos featuring Alton Richardson: Photo Gallery of Alton Richardson:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On Portrero Chico, climbing photography, and the freelance life. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Alton Richardson is a badass. This guy rolls around with a camera and captures everything climbing. From shimmering sunsets over sexy crags to super sends from some of the sickest ascension-ists, this guy captures it all. Whether it’s still life or video, Alton Richardson is there and prepared. He has worked for RAB, La Sportiva, Climbing Magazine, and has even started his own regional climbing magazine for California. (It’s pretty cool, too!) Listen to this episode to learn a bit about how Alton Richardson gets the shots that stir the pot and what he looks to accomplish with them! Show Notes for episode with Alton Richardson: * Starting California Climber, a quarterly magazine with co-founder Dean Flemming * Being on assignment in Chattanooga, Tennessee as a photographer, videographer, and gear tester * The freelance life * How he manages his time as a freelancer and stays ahead of the game * Planning shots * Cultivating relationships with media outlets for future work * Traveling on assignment to Portrero Chico, Mexico and the tragedy that happened * Techniques for shooting climbing * What he likes photographing the most…and it’s not what you think Related Links and Sponsors for Alton Richardson: * Alton Richardson’s Photography website * ARG Media’s Facebook Page Videos featuring Alton Richardson: Photo Gallery of Alton Richardson:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On routesetting as a growing career, what makes a good routesetter for commercial and competition routesetting, and the inevitable fate of career routesetters Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Bret Johnston grew up in climbing gyms. Before Bret was born, his father built the first climbing gym in America. It was called Vertical Club, est. 1987. It makes sense then that Bret would come to work most of his life in a climbing gym and, with routesetting peaking his interest, find a career working for one of the best climbing gym operators in the country. Bret Johnston is now the Director of Routesetting operations for all three of Planet Granite’s gyms, and manages 19 routesetters. Along with that, Bret sets for multiple events throughout the year including chief-ing this year’s USAC Division1 competition in Reno, NV. Show Notes for episode with Bret Johnston: * Growing up in climbing gyms * His new position as Director of Routesetting of Planet Granite * Routesetting as a career in the expanding industry * The importance of skilled routesetters in the climbing gym * What makes a good routesetter * Cultivating new talent * Gym grades and setting on the softer side * The fate of career routesetters * What goes into planning a high level competition * The hardest part about setting competitions * Advice for routesetters trying to get into professional-level competition routesetting Related Links for Bret Johnston: * Planet Granite Climbing Gyms * ‘Man Behind the Drill’ PG’s Article on Bret Johnston * Climbing Business Journal’s Article on Bret’s PG position Videos featuring Bret Johnston: Photo Gallery of Bret Johnston: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On routesetting as a growing career, what makes a good routesetter for commercial and competition routesetting, and the inevitable fate of career routesetters Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Bret Johnston grew up in climbing gyms. Before Bret was born, his father built the first climbing gym in America. It was called Vertical Club, est. 1987. It makes sense then that Bret would come to work most of his life in a climbing gym and, with routesetting peaking his interest, find a career working for one of the best climbing gym operators in the country. Bret Johnston is now the Director of Routesetting operations for all three of Planet Granite’s gyms, and manages 19 routesetters. Along with that, Bret sets for multiple events throughout the year including chief-ing this year’s USAC Division1 competition in Reno, NV. Show Notes for episode with Bret Johnston: * Growing up in climbing gyms * His new position as Director of Routesetting of Planet Granite * Routesetting as a career in the expanding industry * The importance of skilled routesetters in the climbing gym * What makes a good routesetter * Cultivating new talent * Gym grades and setting on the softer side * The fate of career routesetters * What goes into planning a high level competition * The hardest part about setting competitions * Advice for routesetters trying to get into professional-level competition routesetting Related Links for Bret Johnston: * Planet Granite Climbing Gyms * ‘Man Behind the Drill’ PG’s Article on Bret Johnston * Climbing Business Journal’s Article on Bret’s PG position Videos featuring Bret Johnston: Photo Gallery of Bret Johnston: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On hold shaping, moving from basement to business, and always trying to move Element Climbing into the future. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Dave Filkins is the creator, original shaper, and owner of the ever-expanding Element Climbing. His hold company began in the basement of his house and grew until the space could no longer sustain what would eventually grow into Element Climbing. Since he moved out of that basement, Element Climbing has been growing and growing. David and his wife have since devoted their full attention to the growth and development of the hold company. David is set on making Element Holds a titan in the industry and is always looking for new ways to expand and innovate. In this episode we get into how he took Element Climbing from basement to blockbuster and beyond. Show Notes for episode with Dave Filkins of Element Climbing: * How he stumbled into hold shaping * Going from shaping holds in the basement to a full blown company * The pitfalls and mistakes of early shaping * How he begins the process of shaping * Making the jump from basement business to full-grown operation * Building a successful company in a unique industry * How to keep the inventory fresh in a sea of holds * And the new innovations for Element Climbing Related Links for Element Climbing: * Element Climbing Website * Element’s Facebook Page (‘Like’ them!) Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On hold shaping, moving from basement to business, and always trying to move Element Climbing into the future. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Dave Filkins is the creator, original shaper, and owner of the ever-expanding Element Climbing. His hold company began in the basement of his house and grew until the space could no longer sustain what would eventually grow into Element Climbing. Since he moved out of that basement, Element Climbing has been growing and growing. David and his wife have since devoted their full attention to the growth and development of the hold company. David is set on making Element Holds a titan in the industry and is always looking for new ways to expand and innovate. In this episode we get into how he took Element Climbing from basement to blockbuster and beyond. Show Notes for episode with Dave Filkins of Element Climbing: * How he stumbled into hold shaping * Going from shaping holds in the basement to a full blown company * The pitfalls and mistakes of early shaping * How he begins the process of shaping * Making the jump from basement business to full-grown operation * Building a successful company in a unique industry * How to keep the inventory fresh in a sea of holds * And the new innovations for Element Climbing Related Links for Element Climbing: * Element Climbing Website * Element’s Facebook Page (‘Like’ them!) Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the glory days of Bishop, developing in and around the Sierras, and how climbing has changed with age… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Dustin Sabo is a good friend of mine. He basically taught me everything I know about climbing and routesetting. His efforts, however, extend far beyond what he has done for me alone. Dustin was a part of the growth of bouldering in Bishop, Ca in the mid 90’s. During this time he nabbed the first ascent of many Bishop classics including: Acid Wash (V10), Enter the Dragon (V10), Moon Raker (V9), and a handful of others. Dustin was also key in the development of Tahoe bouldering. Along with friends such as Brian Sweeney (Episode 3) and Ty Fairbairn, Dustin helped open up popular northern California destinations such as Castle Peak, The Sierra Buttes, and South Lake Tahoe. He has also set for ABS youth nationals and currently is the head routesetter and head coach at High Altitude Fitness located in Incline Village, Lake Tahoe, NV. *Also, just a little disclosure, this episode is explicit! It may not be suitable for impressionable minors who will be inspired to run away to far off distant bouldering lands and listen to punk rock, and drink, and send FA’s. There may have been a little wine involved in the recording of this episode. It’s a little rambly. I hope you enjoy.* Show Notes for episode with Dustin Sabo: * How Dustin got into climbing * Growing up in the era of Sierra sport climbing * Learning from the likes of Dan Osman * The growth of bouldering in the Bishop area * First Ascent rivalries and the gentleman’s clause that solved it * The Advent of highballs and how it has changed the landscape of bouldering in Bishop * The Legend of ‘Enter the Dragon’ (V10) * Being a steward of climbing areas when there are so many people accessing them * Developing Castle Peak, Tahoe, and the Sierra Buttes * The responsibility of development * How climbing has changed for him as he gets older Related Links and Sponsors for Dustin Sabo: * High Altitude Fitness * Dustin’s Instagram – @beannbug13 (or click here) Videos: For Dustin’s send of ‘Space Odyssey’ (V9) skip to 4:28 I couldn’t find video of Dustin’s send of ‘Dark Matter’ (V12), but here’s Griffin Whiteside (mentioned in episode). Skip to 2:15 for ‘Dark Matter’ Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!