Chalk Talk | A Climbing Industry Podcast

 On the glory days of Bishop, developing in and around the Sierras, and how climbing has changed with age… Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Dustin Sabo is a good friend of mine. He basically taught me everything I know about climbing and routesetting. His efforts, however, extend far beyond what he has done for me alone. Dustin was a part of the growth of bouldering in Bishop, Ca in the mid 90’s. During this time he nabbed the first ascent of many Bishop classics including: Acid Wash (V10), Enter the Dragon (V10), Moon Raker (V9), and a handful of others. Dustin was also key in the development of Tahoe bouldering. Along with friends such as Brian Sweeney (Episode 3) and Ty Fairbairn, Dustin helped open up popular northern California destinations such as Castle Peak, The Sierra Buttes, and South Lake Tahoe. He has also set for ABS youth nationals and currently is the head routesetter and head coach at High Altitude Fitness located in Incline Village, Lake Tahoe, NV. *Also, just a little disclosure, this episode is explicit! It may not be suitable for impressionable minors who will be inspired to run away to far off distant bouldering lands and listen to punk rock, and drink, and send FA’s. There may have been a little wine involved in the recording of this episode. It’s a little rambly. I hope you enjoy.* Show Notes for episode with Dustin Sabo: * How Dustin got into climbing * Growing up in the era of Sierra sport climbing * Learning from the likes of Dan Osman * The growth of bouldering in the Bishop area * First Ascent rivalries and the gentleman’s clause that solved it * The Advent of highballs and how it has changed the landscape of bouldering in Bishop * The Legend of ‘Enter the Dragon’ (V10) * Being a steward of climbing areas when there are so many people accessing them * Developing Castle Peak, Tahoe, and the Sierra Buttes * The responsibility of development * How climbing has changed for him as he gets older Related Links and Sponsors for Dustin Sabo: * High Altitude Fitness * Dustin’s Instagram – @beannbug13 (or click here) Videos: For Dustin’s send of ‘Space Odyssey’ (V9) skip to 4:28 I couldn’t find video of Dustin’s send of ‘Dark Matter’ (V12), but here’s Griffin Whiteside (mentioned in episode). Skip to 2:15 for ‘Dark Matter’ Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On Summiting Everest, traveling 300 miles overland to the tallest mountain in Southeast Asia, and learning to suffer…. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Emily Harrington is a climber for the North Face and La Sportiva. She has been been climbing since she was a little girl and has since been a five-time National Champion, a two time North American Champion, has podium-ed in multiple World Cup events, climbed Everest, and was part of a recent National Geographic expedition to Myanmar. Emily Harrington is one of those types of people who likes to get her hands in just about everything. She sport climbs, trad climbs, ice climbs, and alpines. It takes a lot of gusto to gun as hard as she does, and in this episode we find out what is behind that tenacious drive and what Emily Harrington has planned for pushing her limits in the future. Show Notes for episode with Emily Harrington: * Her experience of summiting Mt Everest * What it meant to her to ascend the highest peak on Earth * The inspiration behind her most recent expedition to Myanmar to climb the highest peak in Southeast Asia * The culture and landscape of modern Myanmar (Burma) * How she prepared mentally and physically for the Myanmar expedition * Avoiding venomous snakes * Reaching the mountain and realizing she was over her head. * Coming within hundreds of meters from the summit and having to turn around * Managing the fear * Trying to master all of climbing’s disciplines and beyond * Training with Team of 2 (Episode 5 w/ Justen Sjong) * Emily’s Goals for next year…and they’re beefy * How she’s preparing for those goals * And her pursuits in becoming the next champion walker Related Links and Sponsors for Emily Harrington: * Emily’s website * Emily’s Facebook Page * Emily’s Instagram * The Expeditions Page for The North Face Expeditions * The North Face * La Sportiva * Petzl * Smith Optics Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On Summiting Everest, traveling 300 miles overland to the tallest mountain in Southeast Asia, and learning to suffer…. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Emily Harrington is a climber for the North Face and La Sportiva. She has been been climbing since she was a little girl and has since been a five-time National Champion, a two time North American Champion, has podium-ed in multiple World Cup events, climbed Everest, and was part of a recent National Geographic expedition to Myanmar. Emily Harrington is one of those types of people who likes to get her hands in just about everything. She sport climbs, trad climbs, ice climbs, and alpines. It takes a lot of gusto to gun as hard as she does, and in this episode we find out what is behind that tenacious drive and what Emily Harrington has planned for pushing her limits in the future. Show Notes for episode with Emily Harrington: * Her experience of summiting Mt Everest * What it meant to her to ascend the highest peak on Earth * The inspiration behind her most recent expedition to Myanmar to climb the highest peak in Southeast Asia * The culture and landscape of modern Myanmar (Burma) * How she prepared mentally and physically for the Myanmar expedition * Avoiding venomous snakes * Reaching the mountain and realizing she was over her head. * Coming within hundreds of meters from the summit and having to turn around * Managing the fear * Trying to master all of climbing’s disciplines and beyond * Training with Team of 2 (Episode 5 w/ Justen Sjong) * Emily’s Goals for next year…and they’re beefy * How she’s preparing for those goals * And her pursuits in becoming the next champion walker Related Links and Sponsors for Emily Harrington: * Emily’s website * Emily’s Facebook Page * Emily’s Instagram * The Expeditions Page for The North Face Expeditions * The North Face * La Sportiva * Petzl * Smith Optics Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the trials and tribulations of opening a climbing gym, how to follow your own dreams when there are naysayers, and what he has learned and changed on opening his second location. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Summary for episode with Daniel Luke: Before the opening of their first gym in Atlanta, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit and his business partner, Daron Pair, attended a youth national event. Being frustrated by the layout and organization of the venue, Daniel Luke and Daron Pair decided it was up to them to build a better gym. Stone Summit Atlanta opened in July of 2010 and two weeks later was host to the USAC SCS youth national competition. Since then, Stone Summit Atlanta has hosted every SCS youth national. It’s layout is built for competition viewing, but it has been amazingly successful within the Atlanta community despite warnings from industry insiders claiming that the gym was overreaching its limits and would never be successful. This week, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit and Daron Pair will be opening their second location in Kennesaw, Ga. The gym has a greatly expanded bouldering terrain and impressive wall design. In this interview, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit Climbing Gyms talks about the trials and tribulations of opening a climbing gym, how to follow your own dreams when there are naysayers, and what he has learned and changed on opening his second location. Show Notes for Daniel Luke: * The costs of opening a climbing gym * Frustrations with current gym designs were the inspiration behind opening Stone Summit * What factored into picking the location * The issue of funding a new climbing gym * Understanding gym operation as a first-time gym owner * The value in attending the Climbing Wall Association Summit and other industry conventions * Stats on the second Stone Summit facility set to open this week * What was learned by opening Atlanta and how those lessons were put into the design of the new gym * The costs and benefits of hosting competitions and community building events * The biggest challenges faced when opening a new gym * The growth of the climbing industry and the future of indoor climbing Related Links and Sponsors for Daniel Luke: *  Stone Summit Website Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On the trials and tribulations of opening a climbing gym, how to follow your own dreams when there are naysayers, and what he has learned and changed on opening his second location. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Summary for episode with Daniel Luke: Before the opening of their first gym in Atlanta, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit and his business partner, Daron Pair, attended a youth national event. Being frustrated by the layout and organization of the venue, Daniel Luke and Daron Pair decided it was up to them to build a better gym. Stone Summit Atlanta opened in July of 2010 and two weeks later was host to the USAC SCS youth national competition. Since then, Stone Summit Atlanta has hosted every SCS youth national. It’s layout is built for competition viewing, but it has been amazingly successful within the Atlanta community despite warnings from industry insiders claiming that the gym was overreaching its limits and would never be successful. This week, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit and Daron Pair will be opening their second location in Kennesaw, Ga. The gym has a greatly expanded bouldering terrain and impressive wall design. In this interview, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit Climbing Gyms talks about the trials and tribulations of opening a climbing gym, how to follow your own dreams when there are naysayers, and what he has learned and changed on opening his second location. Show Notes for Daniel Luke: * The costs of opening a climbing gym * Frustrations with current gym designs were the inspiration behind opening Stone Summit * What factored into picking the location * The issue of funding a new climbing gym * Understanding gym operation as a first-time gym owner * The value in attending the Climbing Wall Association Summit and other industry conventions * Stats on the second Stone Summit facility set to open this week * What was learned by opening Atlanta and how those lessons were put into the design of the new gym * The costs and benefits of hosting competitions and community building events * The biggest challenges faced when opening a new gym * The growth of the climbing industry and the future of indoor climbing Related Links and Sponsors for Daniel Luke: *  Stone Summit Website Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On Climbing Magazine, how stories get published, and what it takes to keep it fresh! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Climbing Magazine has been around since 1970 and though Julie Ellison has only been involved for a handful of those years, as Senior Editor she takes her job very seriously. Well….not too seriously. Julie Ellison says that the whole idea behind climbing Magazine is to make it fun and accessible. Climbing Magazine prides itself in being the standard of the industry when it comes to articles on climbing techniques, safety skills, training articles, and broad, captivating international features that can be enjoyed by climbers of all levels. Since the buy-out of Climbing Magazine by Active Interest Media some of its readers have been wary to accept the new design as a piece of corporate redesign and feel that it isn’t run by climbers anymore. In this interview, Julie Ellison seeks to set the record straight and enlighten us as to just how much work goes into the magazine by climbers like herself. Show Notes for episode with Julie Ellison: * What they look for in stories from freelance writers and photographers * How to submit stories and photos as a freelancer * How Julie keeps the stories fresh * The impact social media has had on Magazines and how they’ve adapted * The buy-out of Climbing Magazine and how they’ve tried to remain a climber’s magazine * Her favorite climbing zones * And how long print media can last in the digital world Related Links and Sponsors for Julie Ellison: * Climbing Magazine * Climbing Magazine Facebook Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On Climbing Magazine, how stories get published, and what it takes to keep it fresh! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Climbing Magazine has been around since 1970 and though Julie Ellison has only been involved for a handful of those years, as Senior Editor she takes her job very seriously. Well….not too seriously. Julie Ellison says that the whole idea behind climbing Magazine is to make it fun and accessible. Climbing Magazine prides itself in being the standard of the industry when it comes to articles on climbing techniques, safety skills, training articles, and broad, captivating international features that can be enjoyed by climbers of all levels. Since the buy-out of Climbing Magazine by Active Interest Media some of its readers have been wary to accept the new design as a piece of corporate redesign and feel that it isn’t run by climbers anymore. In this interview, Julie Ellison seeks to set the record straight and enlighten us as to just how much work goes into the magazine by climbers like herself. Show Notes for episode with Julie Ellison: * What they look for in stories from freelance writers and photographers * How to submit stories and photos as a freelancer * How Julie keeps the stories fresh * The impact social media has had on Magazines and how they’ve adapted * The buy-out of Climbing Magazine and how they’ve tried to remain a climber’s magazine * Her favorite climbing zones * And how long print media can last in the digital world Related Links and Sponsors for Julie Ellison: * Climbing Magazine * Climbing Magazine Facebook Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On tackling ‘The Swarm’ (V13/14), controversies of female first ascents, competition burnout, and doing what she loves everyday. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Alex Johnson is a Five-Time US National Champion, Two-Time World Cup Gold Medalist and has climbed many hard boulder problems including first female ascents of: The Mystery (V12) Bishop, CA; Diaphanous Sea (V12) Hueco Tanks, Tx; Book of Nightmares (V12) Red Rocks, NV; Drive On (V11) Yosemite, Ca; and many more. In her whirlwind career, Alex Johnson has dominated competitions, faced competition burnout, recovered from depression and rediscovered her love for climbing on the rocks. Alex Johnson takes time in this interview to share her insights and to tell her stories. Show Notes for Alex Johnson: * Putting on a good show for events * The beta on climbing in Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Nevada * Last year’s attempts at taking down The Swarm (V13/14) * How she’s training and preparing to attack The Swarm this coming season * The Mandala controversy and culture of downgrading after female ascents * Why first female ascents hold weight for Alex * On pint-sized crushers and allowing them to compete in adult categories * Her competition career and burning out Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Alex Johnson: * AlexJohnsonClimbing.com * “AJ On The Rocks” Alex Johnson’ Blogspot page * “Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile” from Rock and Ice Magazine * TheNorthFace: Alex Johnson * Evolv * Goal Zero More sponsors: Pro-Tec Athletics, Smith Optics, Nicros Climbing Wall Systems, Organic, J-Tree Skincare, Gnarly Nutrition Videos:   Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

 On tackling ‘The Swarm’ (V13/14), controversies of female first ascents, competition burnout, and doing what she loves everyday. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Alex Johnson is a Five-Time US National Champion, Two-Time World Cup Gold Medalist and has climbed many hard boulder problems including first female ascents of: The Mystery (V12) Bishop, CA; Diaphanous Sea (V12) Hueco Tanks, Tx; Book of Nightmares (V12) Red Rocks, NV; Drive On (V11) Yosemite, Ca; and many more. In her whirlwind career, Alex Johnson has dominated competitions, faced competition burnout, recovered from depression and rediscovered her love for climbing on the rocks. Alex Johnson takes time in this interview to share her insights and to tell her stories. Show Notes for Alex Johnson: * Putting on a good show for events * The beta on climbing in Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Nevada * Last year’s attempts at taking down The Swarm (V13/14) * How she’s training and preparing to attack The Swarm this coming season * The Mandala controversy and culture of downgrading after female ascents * Why first female ascents hold weight for Alex * On pint-sized crushers and allowing them to compete in adult categories * Her competition career and burning out Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Alex Johnson: * AlexJohnsonClimbing.com * “AJ On The Rocks” Alex Johnson’ Blogspot page * “Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile” from Rock and Ice Magazine * TheNorthFace: Alex Johnson * Evolv * Goal Zero More sponsors: Pro-Tec Athletics, Smith Optics, Nicros Climbing Wall Systems, Organic, J-Tree Skincare, Gnarly Nutrition Videos:   Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On filming climbing videos, what they love and hate about climbing media, livestream competitions, and what the public wants most. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman are the co-owners of the media company Louder Than 11. They began their endeavor making climbing films and putting them on the internet for free. As their skill set grew and their films gained more acclaim, Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman expanded their exploits into the commercial market doing livestreams of climbing competitions and filming commercials for numerous outdoor industry companies. In their efforts, Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman have gone above and beyond to always be improving their craft and pushing the boundaries of climbing and outdoor industry media. Join them as they discuss the intricacies of media production and the fun and not so fun parts of dealing with clients. Show Notes for Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman: * The origins of Louder Than 11 * Why and how their downloads are free * How they didn’t compete with BigUp and Sender Films * Their business philosophy * The importance of story and theme * Rapid learning curves and inevitable mistakes * Still committed to learning * Livestream and the future * What works when streaming an event * Media markets in the mainstream Related Links and Sponsors for Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shiman: * Louder Than 11 website * LT11 Facebook * LT11 Instagram * LT11 Flicker Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

On filming climbing videos, what they love and hate about climbing media, livestream competitions, and what the public wants most. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman are the co-owners of the media company Louder Than 11. They began their endeavor making climbing films and putting them on the internet for free. As their skill set grew and their films gained more acclaim, Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman expanded their exploits into the commercial market doing livestreams of climbing competitions and filming commercials for numerous outdoor industry companies. In their efforts, Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman have gone above and beyond to always be improving their craft and pushing the boundaries of climbing and outdoor industry media. Join them as they discuss the intricacies of media production and the fun and not so fun parts of dealing with clients. Show Notes for Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman: * The origins of Louder Than 11 * Why and how their downloads are free * How they didn’t compete with BigUp and Sender Films * Their business philosophy * The importance of story and theme * Rapid learning curves and inevitable mistakes * Still committed to learning * Livestream and the future * What works when streaming an event * Media markets in the mainstream Related Links and Sponsors for Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shiman: * Louder Than 11 website * LT11 Facebook * LT11 Instagram * LT11 Flicker Videos: Photo Gallery:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

Episode 2- Black Diamond Harness Review In this episode 2, Ariel Castro, of Rugged Innovations, blasts our earbuds with his rundown of the Black Diamond Harness Pack. Sorry, to be more specific, the Black Diamond Momentum SA Harness Pack. It’s a great way to get started with the equipment that you need to get up the wall….or so he says. Check it out here or on his review, RuggedInnovations.com. Black Diamond Harness review with the man: Good news, Chalk Talk Podcast listeners, we here at Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast will be partnering with the product reviews of RuggedInnovations.com to bring you audio reviews of some of the latest and greatest climbing products on the market. Nifty! Check it out! Links: Rugged Innovations Black Diamond Black Diamond Momentum SA Harness Pack  

Episode 2- Black Diamond Harness Review In this episode 2, Ariel Castro, of Rugged Innovations, blasts our earbuds with his rundown of the Black Diamond Harness Pack. Sorry, to be more specific, the Black Diamond Momentum SA Harness Pack. It’s a great way to get started with the equipment that you need to get up the wall….or so he says. Check it out here or on his review, RuggedInnovations.com. Black Diamond Harness review with the man: Good news, Chalk Talk Podcast listeners, we here at Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast will be partnering with the product reviews of RuggedInnovations.com to bring you audio reviews of some of the latest and greatest climbing products on the market. Nifty! Check it out! Links: Rugged Innovations Black Diamond Black Diamond Momentum SA Harness Pack  

On the TrainingBeta.com website, podcasts, and training programs. We alsoTalk about injuries, nutrition, and more. Enjoy! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Neely Quinn is a nutritionist and a rock climber who wished to figure out how to improve at her favorite sport. That’s why she began TrainingBeta.com. Training Beta has grown into one of the internet’s best resources for training programs and information with downloadable programs and monthly subscription plans. Make sure  to follow the link below to TrainingBeta.com to see what Neely’s got going on over there. Show Notes for Neely Quinn of Training Beta: * How Neely became interested in studying nutrition and becoming a nutritionist * Becoming location independent with TrainingBeta.com * Simplifying climbing training for the everyman * Downloadable programs and year-long subscription programs * What to expect with the downloadable and subscription programs * Nutrition for climbing * Recognizing you weaknesses * Injuries and rehab Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Neely Quinn of Training Beta: * The Training Beta Website * NeelyQuinn.com Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

On the TrainingBeta.com website, podcasts, and training programs. We alsoTalk about injuries, nutrition, and more. Enjoy! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Neely Quinn is a nutritionist and a rock climber who wished to figure out how to improve at her favorite sport. That’s why she began TrainingBeta.com. Training Beta has grown into one of the internet’s best resources for training programs and information with downloadable programs and monthly subscription plans. Make sure  to follow the link below to TrainingBeta.com to see what Neely’s got going on over there. Show Notes for Neely Quinn of Training Beta: * How Neely became interested in studying nutrition and becoming a nutritionist * Becoming location independent with TrainingBeta.com * Simplifying climbing training for the everyman * Downloadable programs and year-long subscription programs * What to expect with the downloadable and subscription programs * Nutrition for climbing * Recognizing you weaknesses * Injuries and rehab Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Neely Quinn of Training Beta: * The Training Beta Website * NeelyQuinn.com Videos: Photo Gallery: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]