The Old Farmer's Almanac Garden Musings

Kiwi:  The Down Under Wonder Kiwifruits aren’t much to look at, but beneath the brown furry skin of this egg-shape berry lies succulent, translucent, emerald-green flesh with an irresistible flavor that hints of melon, strawberry, banana, and citrus. The fruit is high in fiber and low in calories; has twice the vitamin C of oranges; and contains more potassium than bananas. A native of southwestern China, kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa) arrived in New Zealand in 1906. Then known as the Chinese gooseberry, it was grown as an ornamental for its attractive fan-shape leaves, fragrant white flowers, and twining habit. As a taste developed for the fuzzy fruits, New Zealand became the largest producer of Chinese gooseberries. In the 1950s, as a marketing tactic, its name was changed to kiwifruit after the country’s comical, flightless, bird. Kiwifruit is easy to grow, but requires a long growing season of 225 frost-free days in order for the fruit to ripen. Hardy kiwis (A. arguta, A. kolomikta) are cold tolerant to several degrees below zero and need only 130 days to ripen. They have grape-size fruit with a smooth, usually green, skin that doesn’t require peeling. ‘Arctic Beauty’ (a cultivar of A. kolomikta) is an extremely hardy kiwi that will grow to Zone 3 and survive winter temperatures to –40°F (–40°C). Like other kiwis, ‘Arctic Beauty’ is dioecious and requires a male plant to pollinate the female. One male will suffice for four to five females but the male plant is so colorful, you may want to grow more. Its foliage is a dazzling mix of hot pink, emerald green, and white. Kiwis will grow in full sun or partial shade in almost any garden soil as long as it is well drained. Each vine may produce up to 100 pounds of fruit, so grow them on a sturdy arbor or on wires. Harvest fuzzy kiwifruits when the skin turns brown and seeds are black; pick hardy kiwis just before they are fully ripe. After picking, let kiwis sit a few days at room temperature to soften and sweeten. Kiwis are great eaten out of hand, sliced up in salads, or cooked in a stir-fry. They are a natural for making an upside-down cake, which is no surprise for this treat from Down Under.

All plants have some ability to move, but most of these movements are on a scale too slow for us to see. Tropisms are the simplest plant movements. They are controlled by growth hormones and are a growth response to an external stimulus. A houseplant bending toward the light shining through a window is an example of phototropism. Roots growing from dry soil towards moist soil demonstrate hydrotropism. Other stimuli that trigger tropic responses are heat, gravity, and soil chemicals. Nastic movements, or nasties, can be extremely fast. Although not fully understood, they often involve a rapid change in water pressure inside the plant that may be controlled by chemical and electrical mechanisms. For example, when a leaf of the sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica) is touched, all of the leaves fold up and the plant wilts to the ground. If the stimulus is strong enough, this can happen within the blink of an eye. The plant may have made this adaptation to make it less visible to grazing animals or to scare away insect pests. Many carnivorous plants employ nastic movements to trap their prey. Probably the best known is the Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula). Its specialized leaves, resembling clamshells, are the traps. When insects, lured by a sweet-smelling nectar, enter the chamber, they brush against trigger hairs that snap the trap shut. Digestive juices are then released to dissolve the hapless victim. Another insect-trapping plant is the sundew (Drosera sp.). Charles Darwin described them as being “animals in disguise.” Tentacles with bright-color tips dot the surface of the leaves and secrete a seductive nectar and sticky adhesive. Landing insects stick fast, their movements causing nearby tentacles to move toward and further entangle the prey. In some species, the leaves close around the insect, entombing it in a vat of digestive juices. Plants capable of rapid movement and trapping their meals have long been the basis of science fiction novels and horror films depicting devious man-eating plants. While there is no proof that such botanical monsters exist, we would caution vegetarians to be watchful. After all, turnabout is fair play.

Many gardeners are finding out that by not following the straight and narrow they can triple, even quadruple, their vegetable harvest while spending less time weeding, watering, and feeding their plants. Gardens laid out in traditional long rows with packed-down walkways between may be pleasing to the eye but not necessarily to the plants that grow in them. Narrow rows restrict root growth and are prone to compaction and drying. Intensive gardening replaces rows with wide raised beds that are deeply cultivated and prepared with generous amounts of compost or manure, which creates an excellent environment for root growth, earthworm activity, and the microorganisms that break down organic matter into plant food. Plus, the soil in raised beds warms up quickly in spring, allowing for early planting. You can surround the beds with cement blocks or timbers, or simply form six- to eight-inch-high mounds of earth. Each bed should be no more than three to five feet wide, so that you can work from each side without having to walk on the soil. Plants are grown close together so that they touch at maturity, forming a living mulch that shades out weeds and conserves soil moisture. While the plants are young, spread organic mulch, such as grass clippings or straw, between them. You can take advantage of the space between slow-growing plants like squash or tomatoes by interplanting quick crops such as carrots, radishes, and lettuce; harvest them before the slow-growers mature. Succession planting ensures that every part of the garden stays productive during the entire growing season. Early plantings of lettuce, peas, and radishes can be followed by warm-season crops like peppers and beans. Another way to coax more space from a garden and up its production is to go airborne. Growing tomatoes in cages and raising peas and pole beans on wire fences not only frees up ground space for other plantings, but also keeps the harvest clean. Cucumbers, squash, and melons can also be grown on fences and trellises to increase their yield, leaving a lot of gardeners thinking that they might just have a little growing up to do.

A Divine Vine Whether growing on a trellis or left to ramble over the ground, a passionflower vine (Passiflora sp.) will add color, fragrance, and a tropical air to the garden, transforming it into a heavenly place. Priests who accompanied Spanish explorers to the Americas in the 16th century gave the passionflower its name to honor the Passion of Christ. They believed that parts of the intricate flower symbolized elements of the Crucifixion and that its five petals and five sepals represented the ten Apostles who did not betray or deny knowing Christ. There are over 400 species of passionflowers, most of them tropical. One cold-hardy species, Passiflora incarnata, is thought to have gotten its nickname “maypop” from the loud popping sound the fruit makes when squeezed. The native plant grows from Virginia and Kentucky south to Florida and Texas. Native Americans knew of its sweet-tasting, egg-shape fruits and powerful medicinal properties. The dried, powdered vines were used to relieve back pain and induce sleep; the yellow fruits were eaten out of hand as well as fermented into an alcoholic drink used in religious ceremonies. Today, the herb is used in Europe to lower blood pressure, relieve tension, and treat insomnia. Maypop seeds are extremely slow to germinate, often taking up to a year. Before sowing the seeds, soak them for 12 hours. Then plant them in flats or pots in a standard growing mix. Once germination takes place, grow plants indoors until the following spring; then plant them outdoors after the last spring frost. Stem cuttings may be taken from new growth in the spring or mature wood in early summer. Root them in a mixture of moist sand and peat moss. The cuttings will take about three months to root. As with seedlings, set the rooted cuttings outside when danger of frost has passed. Maypop requires well-drained soil and full sun. It will overwinter as far north as Zone 5 if given a sheltered spot and mulched heavily. The vigorous vine may grow to 20 feet in a single season, producing dozens of magnificent two- to three-inch-wide purple and white blossoms that are sure to stir the passion in any gardener.

May the Force Be With You For a fragrant and colorful preview of spring weeks before winter releases its icy grip on the landscape, try your hand at forcing branches from your favorite flowering trees and shrubs into early bloom. Simply put, forcing is a technique that supplies branches with springlike conditions, tricking them into thinking that it is time to produce leaves and flowers. The time to cut branches for forcing is usually from mid-January through early March, after the plant has completed its dormant period. Use sharp pruning shears to cut several well-budded shoots that are about the diameter of a pencil and about a foot or two long. Because late winter is the ideal time to prune most trees and shrubs, you can shape them as you harvest your future bouquets. To break dormancy and initiate the flowering process, completely soak the severed shoots in a tub of warm water for three to four hours; then recut the stems on a diagonal and stand them in a bucket of cold water so that the bottom one quarter of each stem is submerged. To mimic spring conditions, keep the branches in a cool room (about 60° to 65°F/16° to 18°C), out of direct sunlight. When the buds start to swell, move them to a warmer, sunnier location. Change the water every day or two and recut the stems once per week. Blossoms and leaves should appear in one to six weeks, depending on the variety of the plant and the time of year. Early-blooming plants are the easiest to force; the closer to their natural blooming time branches are cut, the sooner they will flower. Good choices for beginners are forsythia, spirea, witch hazel, honeysuckle, and flowering quince. Fruit trees like apple, peach, and cherry also are good candidates, as are dogwood, hawthorn, and crab apple. For an interesting effect, try forcing plants with colorful leaves like Japanese maple and purple-leaf sand cherry. Forced branches are a natural for creating artistic arrangements or just filling a vase. Arrange them before the buds fully open to avoid damaging the delicate flowers and to add to your pleasure in watching the flowers open. The compliments that you will receive for your display of spring flowers in the dead of winter may just have you taking one bough after another.

Making Your Christmas Tree Last and Last The tradition of bringing a tree into the house and decorating it for Christmas originated in Germany more than 400 years ago but didn’t gain popularity in the United States until the mid-1800s. In those days, trees were cut from the wild or from the family woodlot and weren’t as full and shapely as the trees we buy now. Today, family woodlots are rare, and with the demand for “that perfect tree,” almost all Christmas trees are professionally grown. Many families still like to share in the experience of cutting their own Christmas tree by visiting a choose-and-cut tree farm. Harvesting your own tree is the surest way of knowing that it is as fresh as it can be. Most Christmas trees, however, are purchased at garden centers or tree lots, making it difficult to know how fresh they are. Ask the seller where the trees were grown and when they were cut. If he can answer both of these questions, chances are you will be getting a tree that will survive the season with minimal needle drop. A quick test to determine the freshness of a Christmas tree is to grasp the tip of the branch between your thumb and forefinger and pull it gently. Very few needles will come off in your hand if the tree is fresh. Even the freshest trees will prematurely shed their needles if not handled properly. Just before you bring your tree inside, cut off a 1/4-inch-thick wafer of wood from the bottom of the trunk; then immediately set the tree into a stand filled with water. The tree will probably drink a gallon of water in the first 24 hours. Check the water in the stand daily. If the reservoir is allowed to run dry, sap may seal the bottom of the trunk and reduce future water uptake. Display your tree in a cool room, if possible, and never near a woodstove, radiator, or other source of heat. Even under the best of conditions, some needle drop is natural. After the holidays, set your tree out in the yard and decorate it with popcorn, peanuts, and other snacks for the birds and squirrels. Back in its natural environment, your tree should remain beautiful through the winter.

Going Nuts When looking for an attractive shade tree or a unique specimen for your yard, consider nuts. They fit into most landscapes and provide plenty of fresh, flavorful nuts for baking and snacks. The English, or Persian, walnut (Juglans regia) is a fast-growing, medium-size tree with a handsome rounded crown and open, spreading branches. The compound leaves create an almost tropical effect. At one time, the forests of the eastern United States were filled with American chestnut trees (Castanea dentata), but almost all have been destroyed by a fungal disease called chestnut blight. You can still enjoy the old-time flavor of roasted chestnuts by planting the blight-resistant Chinese chestnut (C. mollissima). It yields sweet, meaty nuts in just three to five years and has an added bonus of long pale-yellow flowers in late spring. Another delightful flowering nut tree that is usually associated with warm climates is the common almond (Prunus dulcis). By selecting cold-tolerant cultivars like ‘Hall’s Hardy’, you can grow almonds as far north as Zone 5. The fragrant pale-pink flowers are reason enough to grow almonds, and your first crop of creamy-white nuts will literally add icing to the cake. The American hazelnut, or filbert (Corylus americana), rarely grows over 12 feet tall, making it a good tree for cramped places. The fluffy yellow male flowers, called catkins, are attention-getters in early spring, and the unpredictable fall foliage ranges from pale yellow to fiery red. If left unpruned, hazelnuts tend to shoot up suckers and become shrubby, making them a nice choice for hedges or screens. Expect a harvest of sweet plump nuts in two to three years from the time of planting. Hazelnuts and certain other nut trees require cross-pollination for fruits to form; this means that you’ll need to plant more than one variety together. For self-fruitful nuts, such as walnuts, you don’t need two varieties, but it’s best to plant at least two of the same type of tree to ensure complete pollination. Besides, what could be more fun than having a couple of nuts hanging around to brighten up your yard?

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor. Those Itsy Bitsy Spiders More than 30,000 species of spiders have been discovered so far. Most of them are itsy bitsy indeed, some smaller than the head of a pin, but there are big ones, too. Certain tarantulas found in tropical South America have a five-inch-long body with a leg span of ten inches and often dine on frogs and small lizards. Although spiders are feared by many, they almost never bite unless disturbed, and very few are poisonous to humans. In fact, spiders are garden heroes that kill more insects than any other creature on Earth. Spiders are not insects but instead belong to a class known as arachnids, which includes ticks and mites, and are distant cousins of scorpions and crabs. The majority of spiders are web builders that trap their prey in silken snares. The silk is produced in glands in the spider’s abdomen and discharged through spinning tubes in long liquid strands that harden when they come in contact with the air. Even though web-building spiders have eight eyes, they have poor eyesight and locate their victims through vibrations in the web. When an insect becomes tangled in the sticky trap, the spider binds it in strands of silk. Then it literally sucks the life out of its prey’s body, leaving just the hard shell. Oil secreted by the spider keeps it from becoming trapped in its own web. Not all spiders build webs. Some hunt in plants or on the ground. The wolf spider is equipped with keen vision and powerful legs for running down its prey; it then kills the victim with quick stabs from its venomous fangs. The trap-door spider lives in a burrow lined with silk and covered with a round silken lid. When the spider feels the vibrations of an approaching insect, it springs from its hiding place and pulls its victim underground. As ferocious as spiders are to other bugs, they are quite vulnerable; they are attacked by wasps, birds, frogs, and even other spiders, and are highly sensitive to pesticides. Considering the quantities of harmful insects that they eat, perhaps we should hold off on spraying our gardens and give the spiders a chance to solve our pest problems.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor. Grow Garlic for the Health of It For ages, garlic has been revered as food and medicine and for the magical properties it was once thought to possess. The Chinese knew of its healing and disease-preventing properties 5,000 years ago. It was fed to the builders of the Great Pyramids and was hung on the outside of houses throughout Europe to protect those within from witches and vampires. Today, it is known that garlic can lower cholesterol, reduce high blood pressure, and destroy bacteria and fungi. Studies indicate that it may even play a role in preventing heart disease and treating certain types of cancer. A sulfur-based compound known as allicin is responsible for garlic’s health-giving benefits as well as its pungent smell. Cooking will tame garlic’s pervasive odor and sweeten its taste, but high heat or overcooking may remove some of its beneficial properties. Garlic just about grows itself, and if you cook at all, you should include some in your garden. There are two types of true garlic: hard-neck varieties, which are favored by experienced cooks for their rich flavor and ease of peeling, and the productive soft-necks, which are known for their keeping qualities. Plant garlic in the fall after the first hard frost; this should give the plant time to establish good root growth before the ground freezes. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Separate the individual cloves from the bulbs, and plant them five inches apart and two inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil moist during this critical rooting period. In areas where temperatures fall below 0°F (–18°C), apply a six-inch-deep layer of straw or pine needles as a winter mulch. The garlic will be ready to harvest in mid- to late summer, depending on the variety. As the bulbs mature, the foliage will start to brown. When only five to six leaves remain on the plant, dig up the bulb as you would an onion. Garlic is a proven pest repellent, and when planted throughout the garden, it protects other crops from insects and animal pests. It seems that garlic is just as beneficial for plants as it is for us.

Humans are about 60 percent water; watermelons are about 90 percent. It makes sense, then, that these melon marvels are looked upon as refreshing, juicy summer treats. Listen to learn how to raise these remarkable fruit grown as vegetables. This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.   What better way to top off a summer picnic or barbecue than with a juicy slice of sweet watermelon? Although watermelon may seem as traditionally American as apple pie, it is actually a native of Africa and is grown in 96 countries. Watermelon is a tropical plant that requires high temperatures and a long growing season. Large varieties like ‘Georgia Rattlesnake’ (the kind sold in supermarkets) require at least 90 to 100 days to ripen. In areas where the growing season isn’t long enough to raise standard-size melons, the midget or icebox types are best. ‘Festival’, ‘Sugar Baby’, and the yellow-fleshed ‘Sunshine’ are three fast-growing melons that will produce 8- to 10-pound fruits in about 75 days. For best growth, watermelons need daytime temperatures of 80°F (27°C) or more and warm nights. Gardeners in cold climates should start seeds indoors at least 4 weeks before they are to be set out. Watermelons are commonly grown in hills, because the soil stays warmer when mounded. Hills are usually fashioned 4 to 6 inches high and 2 feet across, and spaced 4 to 6 feet apart. Watermelons are gluttonous feeders and will benefit from plenty of rotted manure and 1⁄3 pound of 5-10-5 fertilizer spaded into each hill. Allow two plants per hill, or if seeding directly, sow four to six seeds—evenly spaced and 1⁄2 inch deep. When seedlings appear, thin out all but the strongest two. Continue to feed the plants every 2 to 3 weeks with 5-10-5 fertilizer. Because watermelons are more than 90 percent water, they will require lots of irrigation, especially in the first few weeks and during dry spells. A thick covering of straw mulch will help conserve moisture and provide a cushion for the melons to rest on. Ripe melons lose their shiny appearance and take on a dull look. The spot where the melon sits on the ground should be buttery yellow, and the tendril closest to the stem should be browning or dead. Once harvested, watermelons will keep 7 to 10 days, but we’ve got a hunch that a fresh melon from your garden won’t last nearly that long.

Plants may not need 8 glasses of water each day, but they appreciate a drink on a fairly regular basis. Listen to learn how best to give them their required dosage of H2O so that they are as fit as a fiddlehead. This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.   The art of watering is one of the most difficult skills for gardeners to master. More plants die from improper watering (too much or too little) than from any other reason. To tend to your plants’ water needs, first look at the soil. For healthy growth, plants must take in both water and oxygen through their roots. Soils containing mostly clay easily become waterlogged and have almost no air space. On the other hand, coarse sandy soils have plenty of space for air but drain water too quickly. Adding organic matter such as compost will improve both of these soils and help maintain the balance of water and air. Plants grow best when given long, deep, infrequent waterings, which encourage deep rooting. Frequent light waterings encourage roots to grow too close to the soil surface, where they dry out quickly. Most gardens and lawns need between 1 and 2 inches of water per week to completely saturate their root zones. To see how much water your sprinklers are applying, place cans around the area and measure the depth of water in each after you’ve finished watering. The amount of water that your plants actually need will depend upon weather and the site. Plants growing in shade, and those that are heavily mulched, may go for days without needing a drink; those exposed to wind and sun may require more frequent soakings. Don’t trust what you see on the surface of the soil to determine when to water; dig down 6 inches or more to see if it is moist in the root zone. Old gardening wisdom tells us to water only in the cool of the evening or in the morning before the wind comes up, but absolutely never in the heat of mid-afternoon. Watering at cool times will conserve water that otherwise might be lost to evaporation, but from the plants’ point of view, a cool shower on a sweltering afternoon is quite beneficial. Studies show that wetting the foliage during the hottest part of the day prevents wilt and encourages stronger turf, larger crop yields, and prolonged bloom on flowering plants. Hopefully, your plants will benefit when you follow a little watering advice that’s not all wet.

Variety is the spice of life. So, why not add lesser-known fruit to your garden? Listen to learn about these “berry good” options: American elder, Jostaberries, Juneberries, lingonberries, and mulberries. This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.   Backyard berry growers usually direct their efforts to raising strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries but there are many less familiar berries that are packed with flavor and nutrients and are very easy to grow.  Many originated from native species and require little care other than occasional weeding and watering.             Shad or Juneberry is an extremely hardy plant native to almost all of North America.  Its twenty-five or so species may take the form of multi-stemmed shrubs or small trees that occasionally reach 30’.             Truly a four-season plant, shad makes a great landscape addition, especially in a wooded setting.  In early spring, flurries of small white flowers cover the branches followed by bluish to purple blueberry sized fruit.  Its blazing red, yellow, and orange fall foliage even rival the maples for attention; and it’s fissured gray bark becomes its dominant feature in winter.  The sweet juicy berries are delicious eaten out of hand or made in to pies and sauces.             Mulberry is an often-overlooked tree that yields scrumptious inch long fruits that resemble blackberries and are used much the same way.  Be careful where you plant this medium sized tree, because the dark pigmented berries drop readily and will stain patios and outdoor furniture.             For a low shrub or ground cover, you can’t beat Lingonberry for its beauty and flavor.  The 10” high evergreen produces masses of red berries that resemble and taste much like cranberries.  European cooks consider them indispensable for making jellies, jams, and sauces.             If you like both currants and gooseberries for preserves, jellies, and pies, you might want to grow Jostaberries, a cross between the two.  Each plant can produce over ten pounds of mouth-watering fruits that are rich in vitamin C.  Jostaberries are quick to establish and are cold hardy to 40° below zero.             Elderberries are an old fashioned favorite with many gardeners.  The attractive shrub has flat creamy white flowers and small deep purple berries that make a jelly as pretty as it is delicious.  The berries are a tasty addition to salads and deserts and can be brewed into a strong aromatic wine that will, indeed, give you cause to respect your elders.             There are many other over-looked plants that will add unique colors and flavors to your berry basket.  A few to try are minty checkerberries, mountain cranberries, and tayberry, a delicious blackberry-raspberry cross.             By planting some of these not so well known varieties, your back yard may become a berry unusual place indeed.

If you object to having brussels sprouts on the menu, perhaps you haven’t sampled those sweetened by frost and picked at the peak of freshness. For best flavor, timing is everything. Listen to learn how to grow a delectable harvest of these unusual vegetables. This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.               If you really don’t like the taste of Brussels Sprouts, you may want to grow some in your garden this season.  This may seem some what of a contradiction but if you’ve formed your opinion about these miniature cabbages by eating sprouts bought at the supermarket, you may do an about face once you’ve sampled fresh Brussels Sprouts harvested at their peak of freshness.             The fact is that Brussels Sprouts must experience a stiff frost or two before they develop their sweet mild flavor and are absolutely at their best when served up the same day that they are harvested.             This unique plant that often grows to three feet tall is almost indistinguishable from cabbage in its seedling stage, but as it matures buds or sprouts form in the joints where the leaves meet the stem.  As many as a hundred of these 1”-2” tiny gems may grow on one plant.             With Brussels Sprouts, timing is everything; depending on the variety that you choose, seeds are sown 90-120 days before the expected date of the first fall frost.  In most climates, seeds must be started indoors four to five weeks before they are set out in the spring.  Space the plants at 18” intervals in rows 24”-30” apart.  Slip a paper or aluminum foil collar around each plant to discourage cutworms.  Fertilize two to three times during the growing season with a band of 10-10-10 garden fertilizer starting when the plants are 6”-8” tall.  Occasional weeding and a mulch to conserve soil moisture is just about all of the care the plants will require.             Brussels Sprouts are the hardiest member of the cabbage clan and may be harvested up until the ground freezes.  When the sprouts at the bottom of the plant are pea-sized, remove the lower leaves; this makes the sprouts grow faster and facilitates picking.  Start picking at the bottom of the stem and work upward as the sprouts mature.  If you are freezing your crop, you may want all of the sprouts to mature at once.  To make this happen, pinch out the leafy growing tip of each plant in early fall about six weeks before harvest.             In cold areas, you can extend the harvest season by digging up the entire plant leaving some soil on the roots, place it in a cold frame or unheated garage and the sprouts will continue to develop well in to the winter.