The Old Farmer's Almanac Garden Musings

If misery loves company, then hay-fever sufferers should never have to be alone. Thirty-five million Americans have pollen allergies that may cause itchy eyes, ears, and throats; difficulty breathing; or all of the above. Insect-pollinated plants have bright flowers and heavy, sticky, pollen grains that tend to stay put and cause few allergies. It’s the wind-pollinated plants that cause the most problems for allergy sufferers. Their small, dull, inconspicuous flowers produce clouds of tiny, light, pollen grains that are blown aloft for great distances and can easily penetrate window screens. To increase the chances that at least some pollen grains will reach the appropriate female flowers, plants produce many more grains than are needed—and some end up on our hair, on our clothes, and, alas, in our eyes and nasal passages. Trees, grasses, and weeds are responsible for most windblown pollen. Big offenders include large shade trees such as oaks, maples, and beeches; most lawn grasses; and common weeds such as lamb’s-quarter, pigweed, and ragweed, which may produce a million pollen grains on just one plant. Goldenrod, which blooms along with ragweed, is often blamed for allergies, but it is bee-pollinated and causes few problems. There has been a huge increase in hay-fever sufferers in recent years, partly due to a growing interest in fruitless and seedless “litter-free” trees. Many of these are males that may be litter-free, but they are definitely not pollen-free. To make matters worse, fewer female trees are being planted, so less pollen is being caught. Instead, it falls to the ground, where it can be stirred up by mowers and foot traffic. For gardeners or anyone who has allergies but loves the outdoors, there are steps that can be taken to limit discomfort. Plan your outdoor activities when pollen counts are lowest, such as in the late afternoon or during cool, wet weather. Plant only all-female trees and shrubs, and limit grassy areas by planting insect-pollinated ground covers. By carefully choosing the right plants and gardening when pollen counts are low, you can make your yard a healthier and more enjoyable place to be, which is nothing to sneeze at.

The joy of cottage gardening comes from its informal, seemingly unplanned, blend of flowers of different sizes, textures, shapes, and colors. Successful gardens, however, are the result of careful planning to keep the helter-skelter mélange of plants overflowing with color throughout the season. Cottage gardens typically include a mingling of annuals, perennials, grasses, and bulbs. Often a shrub, dwarf tree, or vine is thrown into the mix. The addition of a rustic fence, topiary, or garden ornament personalizes the garden and adds a whimsical touch. The charm of the cottage garden has its roots in 15th-century England and Scotland, where peasants working on large estates grew the plants that they needed for food and medicine right outside their cottage door. Usually the plots were tiny, featuring a tangle of fruits, vegetables, and herbs, but few, if any, flowers. Late in the 16th century, when travel and trade began to flourish, new varieties of flowers from other countries became popular. These were planted among the herbs and vegetables for color and fragrance, and eventually transformed the cottage garden into the tumble of flowers that it is today. Cottage gardens have remained popular because they are easy to care for—looking a bit unkempt is part of their charm. Each cottage garden is as unique as its gardener, but all follow a few guidelines: First, plant in abundance to create a lush, overgrown look; by growing plants close together, weeds are crowded out. Second, choose plants with a long blooming season, including ones that will be coming into bloom as others fade. Third, add garden accessories for a personal touch. A wooden wheelbarrow, a sundial, an arbor, or an antique bench becomes a focal point in the sea of color. If you are a bit of a traditionalist and want to grow some vegetables and herbs as was done in original cottage gardens, mix them right in. Colorful vegetables such as ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss chard add delicious tones and textures to the planting, and strawberries or creeping thyme make great edible ground covers. By adding a few of these practical plants, your garden will be a very pleasant—or should we say “peasant”?—place to be.

The light shows created by myriads of flashing fireflies against a black night sky of summer have been fascinating mankind for ages. The nearly 2,000 species of fireflies worldwide inhabit every continent except Antarctica. The firefly, or lightning bug, isn’t a fly at all, but a beetle from the family Lampyridae, which in Latin means “shining fire.” Photocytes, or light cells, in the insect’s abdomen are where the glow is produced. The light is the result of a chemical reaction known as bioluminescence that occurs when two substances, luciferin and luciferase, react with one another when exposed to oxygen. The firefly regulates the flow of oxygen into its abdomen to turn its taillight on or off. This cold, living light is almost 100 percent efficient, losing only a fraction of its energy to heat. By comparison, a standard incandescent light bulb is less than 10 percent efficient. The main idea of a firefly’s light show is to attract a mate. The males fly around while turning their lights on and off, hoping to get the attention of a flightless female waiting in low vegetation. If a female is impressed by a male’s flickering, she will flash back a response to the twilight glow. Each species of firefly has its own unique flash that is characteristic of its sex and species. Carnivorous females of the genus Photuris are known to entomologists as femmes fatales. These fireflies mimic the flashes of females of other firefly genera; the unsuspecting courting male flies in expecting romance and is promptly eaten. These creatures of the night are truly a gardener’s friend. Firefly larvae eat countless numbers of snails, slugs, and cutworms, and devour the larvae of many other insect pests. Over the past several years, the number of firefly sightings has declined. Some think that this could be due to increased pesticide use or loss of habitat from urban sprawl. Excess lighting from shopping centers and streetlights may also be interfering with firefly mating flashes. To help these bright little insect friends, limit pesticide use, especially on lawns; keep outdoor lighting to a minimum; and plant a few shrubs and low trees to provide daytime shelter. You could be rewarded with many delightful, and enlightening, summer guests.

Anyone who has ever touched a stinging nettle has quickly found out that this innocent-looking weed more than lives up to its name. Its three- to four-foot-tall stems and both sides of the dark-green, heart-shape, toothed leaves are covered with countless tiny stinging hairs. The sharp hairs are hollow and contain a mixture of irritating chemicals. Just lightly brushing against the plant will cause the hairs to penetrate the skin and inject the toxins, causing an immediate burning sensation and itching. It seems ironic that this prickly plant that we try to avoid has been used for clothing, food, and medicine for almost 3,000 years. Nettle’s tough fibers have been used to weave fabrics ranging from fine linen to cloth as coarse as burlap. Sails were once made of it, as was the rope to hoist them. In the late 1800s, flax and hemp replaced nettle for these purposes only because they could be grown more easily and on less-fertile soil. When cotton became scarce during World War I, the Germans raised over five million pounds of stinging nettle to be made into army uniforms. Rich in iron, calcium, and vitamins C and D, nettle is a nutritious and tasty vegetable. New shoots are unarmed and can be eaten raw in salads. When dried or cooked, nettle loses its sting. Leaves and stems are delicious steamed or boiled, and the pot liquid can be made into a tasty soup. Throughout the ages, nettle has been used to treat a host of maladies, including stomach cramps, internal bleeding, poisoning, and baldness. At one time, it was thought that flogging an affected area with bunches of nettles could cure gout and arthritis. Nettle tea was prescribed for breathing difficulties and is still used by modern herbalists to treat asthma and allergies. Nettle grows best on fertile ground, so it is often found as a weed in the vegetable garden. Don’t be too quick to glove up and pluck it out, however—nettle helps the vegetables and fruit of surrounding plants to resist spoiling and increases the content of essential oils in many nearby herbs. Beneficial garden insects as well as butterflies are attracted to stinging nettle, giving gardeners another reason to say “Hands off!” when it comes to pulling this helpful weed. Read more about eating nettles and natural remedies with nettles.

Crisp and succulent, celery has a unique flavor and satisfying crunch that make it a favorite with gourmets and dieters alike. Celery is delicious regardless of whether it’s served cooked or raw. It adds zest to soups and stews and can be baked, braised, steamed, or even slathered with cream cheese or peanut butter for a high-energy snack. An eight-inch-long stalk has only about six calories, which makes it a popular diet food. Wild celery is native to coastal areas of the Mediterranean, Europe, and southern Asia. The ancients used preparations of the plant to expel kidney stones, treat nervous disorders, and relieve the pain from gout and arthritis. The Romans used celery and its seeds to flavor meats and fish. It wasn’t until the early 1700s, however, when developments improved celery’s flavor, that it was widely accepted as a food. Celery requires a long growing season and demands a continuous supply of moisture and heavy fertilization. But, the taste of tender, just-picked stalks is well worth the extra effort. Most areas don’t have a gardening season long enough for celery to reach maturity, so plants in these regions must be started indoors up to three months before they are to be set out. Soak the seeds overnight to soften the tough seed coat, and then plant them in a flat of regular potting soil one-half inch apart and one-eighth inch deep. When the seedlings reach one to two inches tall, transplant them to individual pots. When all danger of frost has passed, the plants, now about five inches tall, can be moved to the garden in full sun. Celery thrives in mucklike conditions, so if your garden soil is sandy or well drained, mix in lots of compost along with a generous helping of well-rotted manure. Celery can be planted fairly close in the garden. Set each plant six to eight inches apart in rows two feet apart. A mulch of straw or clippings will help to conserve moisture and discourage weeds. When it’s large enough, you can harvest your celery a stalk at a time or take the entire head by cutting it just below the soil line. Share some of this unique crop with your friends, and you will be hearing “thanks a bunch” over and over again.

Just the name “magnolia” evokes images of southern mansions, mint juleps, and massive southern magnolias with tropical-looking evergreen foliage and huge, creamy-white flowers. There are, however, a plethora of other magnolias, many with Asian origins, which display bold masses of color and are hardy even in the northernmost states. The star magnolia, Magnolia stellata, is a multistemmed Japanese import that grows to about 15 feet tall with a 10-foot spread. Its fragrant, white, star-shape flowers are tinged with pink. Another early-season beauty is the saucer magnolia, Magnolia x soulangeana. It can grow to 30 feet tall with an equal spread. Large, pink to purple, cup-shape flowers cover this multistemmed tree. While both magnolias are quite hardy, their flowers are often nipped by a late-spring frost in northern climates. To solve this problem, plant breeders developed the Little Girl hybrids by crossing the star magnolia with the lily magnolia, Magnolia liliiflora. The eight Little Girl hybrids—‘Ann’, ‘Betty’, ‘Jane’, ‘Judy’, ‘Pinkie’, ‘Randy’, ‘Ricki’, and ‘Susan’—were named for the wives and daughters of the breeders who developed them. They are all shrublike and multistemmed, grow to about 10 to 15 feet, and flower a few weeks later than the star or saucer magnolias. The Little Girls all leaf out after they flower in eye-catching shades of pink, purple, and red. Another group of hardy late bloomers are the yellow-flowering magnolias, which grow to about 15 feet. They were created by crossing an American variety, Magnolia acuminata (cucumber tree), with several Asian varieties. ‘Elizabeth’ was the first yellow magnolia. Magnolias are surprisingly easy to grow. They are bothered by few pests and rarely, if ever, need pruning. Plant them at a sunny site that has plenty of organic matter. They are shallow-rooted, so they need to be watered in hot, dry weather, especially while they become established. A light layer of mulch will help to protect the roots and keep the soil from drying out. Magnolias are an ideal plant for next to a deck or patio, where you can enjoy their fragrance and beauty while relaxing and sipping lemonade—or maybe even a mint julep or two.

Skunks can be found just about everywhere in North America. The most common, the striped skunk (Mephitis mephitis), lives in southern Canada, most of the United States, and parts of northern Mexico. Because it somewhat resembles a house cat in size and appearance, the skunk has earned the nicknames polecat, stink cat, and wood pussy. However, it actually belongs to a different family, Mustelidae, which includes muskrats, weasels, and minks. Skunks have few enemies thanks to their unique defense system. Like other mustelids, skunks have two scent glands on their posterior that produce a pungent odor. But only the skunk can accurately squirt the vile liquid up to 12 feet. A slow, lumbering gait combined with poor eyesight make a skunk appear fearless as it prowls the night in search of a meal, but it takes a lot to provoke one. This docile animal, when cornered or protecting its young, will first give warning by stomping the ground with its front feet; it will then hiss and arch its tail over its back. If the attacker continues, the skunk will let go with either one or both scent barrels, which are capable of six shots each. If the spray hits the attacker’s eyes, it causes a burning sensation and often temporary blindness that may last 10 to 15 minutes. The chemical in the spray responsible for the putrid odor is the sulfide mercaptan, which may linger in an animal’s fur for a month or more. If your pet is sprayed, bathe it as soon as possible (preferably outside) with pet or baby shampoo. If a skunk sprays your pet’s eyes, flush the eyes with plenty of water. Time-tested deodorizers include everything from vanilla extract to tomato juice or vinegar. Always rinse off your pet’s fur after using these. A skunk is a great mouser, and also helps to keep grounds and roadsides free of carrion and fallen fruit. Its role in controlling harmful insects is what really earns the skunk its stripes, however. The animal will feed on plant pests such as cutworms, beetles, grubs, grasshoppers, and potato bugs, and occasionally even on scorpions and black widow spiders. A skunk’s best attribute, however, is its generosity. After all, what other animal would give its last scent to an enemy?  

Indoor herbs needn’t be limited to the usual thyme, oregano, mints, and parsley lined up on the kitchen windowsill. There are some that make attractive, if not exotic, houseplants. One such herb is borage, also known as “beebread” for the numerous bees that it attracts to the garden. In the home, its fuzzy green foliage and nodding clusters of sky-blue, star shape flowers will attract nothing but compliments. Use its tender young leaves to add a mild cucumber flavor to salads and cold soups, or steam them up as you would spinach. The colorful flowers can be used to decorate cakes or frozen in ice cubes for festive drinks. Borage is easily started from seed, or small volunteers can be potted up from the garden. The hollow, spiky leaves of chives are wonderful for adding a sweet, oniony flavor to soups and sauces. Diced up, they give zip to omelets, dips, and salads. You can also use the spicy, lavender-color blooms as a cut flower or garnish. To prepare chives for wintering indoors, first divide a clump in late summer or early fall and plant in a pot. Chives need to go through a dormant period, so leave the pot outside to experience temperatures near freezing for a month or two. Then, trim back the withered foliage and bring the plant inside to a sunny location. The bulbs will think that it’s spring and send up tender new shoots. Bring your chives back to the garden in the spring to repeat the cycle. Bay makes a handsome potted patio plant with a Mediterranean flare that must be brought inside in the winter in all but the warmest climates. It was once believed that a bay tree protected anyone near it from devils, witches, thunder, and lightning. Nowadays, it protects its owner from the high cost of bay leaves at the supermarket. Bay trees can reach 40 feet tall in their native habitat but seldom grow too much more than three feet when confined to a pot. The dark-green, leathery leaves are highly aromatic. Use them fresh or dry to spice up meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, soups, and sauces. But go light with this powerful herb—too much can cause a bitter flavor. Any of these unique houseplants are sure to spice up a bland winter day and always make good scents.

Gifts That Keep On Giving Holiday plants as gifts can be enjoyed long after the Christmas season is over. Three favorites—the poinsettia, Christmas cactus, and amaryllis—require similar care and can be coaxed into blooming for future holidays. Red poinsettias are popular, but white, pink, yellow, and bicolor varieties are gaining favor. To rejuvenate your poinsettia for next year’s holiday season, move it outside when night temperatures are not apt to fall much below 50°F (10°C) and prune to keep it bushy and compact. To initiate bloom, the poinsettia needs long nights in complete darkness starting in early October. Cover the plant with a cardboard box or keep it in a closet from about 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 a.m. and water sparingly. When color develops in early December, stop the dark treatment. Like poinsettias, Christmas cacti are available in a kaleidoscope of colors including red, white, pink, cream, and fuchsia. Long-lived, they may produce bountiful blooms for 20 to 30 Christmases to come. You can force a Christmas cactus into bloom in much the same way as a poinsettia, by providing long nights starting around October 1. You can also persuade it to flower by subjecting it to cool night temperatures of 50° to 55°F (10° to 13°C) starting in early November. Although the amaryllis can be purchased at any stage of development, for many the real fun is growing their own plant from a bulb. Most amaryllis bulbs are sold already potted and with complete growing instructions. Once watering is started, you can expect magnificent lily-like blooms of red, pink, white, or orange in four to six weeks. After flowering, grow the amaryllis as a foliage plant until the leaves turn yellow. Then store the potted bulb on its side in a cool, dark room or basement to rest for eight to ten weeks. When new growth appears, repot the bulb and return it to the light to start the cycle again. Once your holiday plants are back on track, display them away from drafts in a bright room, but not in direct sunlight; they all prefer 60° to 70°F (16° to 21°C) temperatures and like moist but not soggy soil. As with many of us, these plants are already looking forward to next year’s holiday season.

Not All Willows Weep The graceful silhouette of the weeping willow (Salix babylonica) and its long, slender, pendulous branches make it easy to recognize even from a distance. Actually, planting this tree at some distance from your home and lawn is probably a good idea. While quite benign when growing at the water’s edge or in a damp corner of a field, when planted in the yard, its thirsty roots often seek out moisture in drainage pipes and can invade even the tiniest of cracks in sewer lines and foundations. Shallow roots compete with lawn grass for nutrients and often protrude above the soil, making mowing difficult. Of the estimated 400 willow varieties, not all weep or need to grow in wet soil. Certain ones, like the black willow (S. nigra), grow straight and tall, reaching 100 feet or more; other willows are ground-huggers that crawl and creep. Some display uniquely colored bark and foliage. ‘Scarlet Curls’ is a willow hybrid that twists its way skyward to 30 feet. Its branches resemble giant corkscrews, and even its leaves have wavy edges. In winter, the contorted branches cast scribbly shadows on the snow, and the vivid red twigs brighten even the gloomiest of days. The fuzzy catkins of pussy willows (Salix spp.) are a sure sign of spring and bring a smile to everybody’s face. A particularly striking variety is ‘Rubykins’ (a cultivar of S. koriyanagi), with its bright red catkins. Or try goat willow (S. caprea), the florist’s choice, with its large, 1-1⁄2-inch-long, rose-color catkins. Willows are extremely important to wildlife. Game birds, rodents, and browsing animals dine on their bark, twigs, catkins, and buds. Being one of the first plants to flower in the spring, they are also an early source of pollen and nectar for honeybees. From the earliest times, the pliable stems and easy-to-work wood of willows have been used for making items from baskets to fishnets. Long before its bark was known to contain salicin, the active ingredient in aspirin, Native Americans chewed on willow twigs to ease pain and tied strips of its bark around their heads to cure headaches. Before aspirin was developed, doctors may well have advised: “Take two willows and call me in the morning.”

A Garden to Fall For Many gardeners prefer autumn to any other season. The heat and humidity of summer have passed, biting insects are gone, and the leaves of many plants paint the landscape with bold strokes of red, yellow, orange, and purple. With a little planning, you can create a fall garden that will rival the bright new leaves and flowers of spring gardens. To choose plants for a fall garden, visit a nursery with paper, pencil, and camera in hand. Take notes and snapshots and ask questions: Does the plant have colorful berries for winter interest? Will it attract birds? How will it look in other seasons? When thinking about fall foliage, trees such as northern red oak (Quercus rubra) and sugar maple (Acer saccharum), with their mixed palettes of blazing color, come to mind. If you don’t have room for these large trees that may grow more than 60 feet tall, there are many smaller ones that are just as vibrant. The ‘Autumn Brilliance’ serviceberry (a cultivar of Amelanchier x grandiflora) grows only 20 feet tall and has flaming-red fall foliage. It also features white flowers in early spring and sweet, edible berries. The Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) grows 25 feet tall and sports reddish-purple autumn dress; the 12-foot ‘Sherwood Flame’ Japanese maple (a cultivar of Acer palmatum) presents a dramatic scarlet fall display. Shrubs are the bones of a fall garden, creating a colorful underplanting. The highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) makes an attractive hedge, growing up to 12 feet high. In addition to its long-lasting, bright-red autumn leaves, you’ll enjoy its white spring flowers tinged with pink and, of course, its delicious juicy berries. Colorful fall foliage isn’t limited to just trees and shrubs. Many vines, ground covers, perennials, and ornamental grasses can contribute a variety of unique textures and tones to your planting. Creating a beautiful fall garden isn’t difficult; all it requires is a bit of planning and a colorful imagination.

Out of Your Gourd Hard-shelled gourds, along with pumpkins, squash, and ornamental gourds, all belong to the cucurbit family. Unlike their soft-skinned cousins, however, hard-shelled gourds have a very tough outer surface that takes on the characteristics of wood when dried. Gourds are among the first crops ever cultivated. They are thought to have originated in Africa and spread to the Americas on ocean currents, their seeds protected by the fruits’ water-resistant skin. Ancient man gathered gourds from the wild 10,000 years ago not for food but for the useful items that could be made from their shells. Small, round gourds were made into bowls, cups, and floats for fishing nets. Long gourds with bulbous ends became spoons or pipes, and large, thick-skinned ones were used to haul water and store food. Gourds have served as musical instruments, armor, jewelry, and even currency. In some cultures, they took on religious significance and became objects of art embellished with carvings, wood burnings, and paint. Hard-shelled gourds can be grown anywhere that pumpkins can and have about the same requirements—a sunny spot, a long growing season, and plenty of food and water. Some growers in the North start seeds indoors in peat pots four weeks before setting them out in the garden. If you sow seeds directly in the ground, plant six to eight in each hill and then thin them to three or four. Hills should be spaced eight feet apart and prepared with plenty of manure and compost. Harvest gourds when the stems have completely dried and turned brown. Scrub them clean with soap and water and then wipe the skin with a 10% bleach solution to prevent mold. Dry them in a warm, dark room for one to six months, depending on their size. When completely dried, a gourd will be lightweight, with its seeds heard rattling inside; it can then be waxed or varnished. Today, artists still enjoy working with gourds, and their work appears in gourd shows and craft fairs throughout the country. Varieties can be grown that resemble penguins, snakes, and swans, or that have the perfect shape to be turned into ladles and birdhouses. Now, we think that’s using your gourd.

Building a Butterfly Garden The glimmering wings and graceful flutters of butterflies bring color and movement to the landscape while they aid in the pollination of flowers, fruit, and vegetable plants. Unfortunately, urbanization and other development are shrinking their natural habitat, leaving fewer places to feed, mate, and lay eggs. By making your yard butterfly-friendly, you will attract swirls of these colorful creatures to your home and at the same time help to preserve them. Butterfly gardens don’t have to be large. You can grow plants in containers on a patio or even in hanging pots and window boxes. Butterflies need the sun to maintain body temperature, so place your garden in the sunniest location possible. The key to attracting butterflies is to provide them with lots of nectar sources; they also prefer to feed on open, tube-shape flowers. Choose a variety of fragrant, colorful flowers to keep your garden blooming from spring until frost. These can be perennials like asters, bee balms, and sedums, and flowering trees and shrubs including crab apples and lilacs. Zinnias, marigolds, and other long-season annuals will help keep your garden in constant bloom. All butterflies start out as caterpillars that require host plants on which to feed. Many of these are native plants—weeds and wildflowers that may already be growing on or near your property. Some good choices include clovers, milkweeds, and violets. Consult a field guide or other reference to find out what butterflies are in your area and which plants they prefer. After a rain, you may see butterflies congregating around a puddle or damp area in the garden to drink and extract minerals from the soil. Maintaining a puddle in the same spot will keep butterflies coming back. Plant a few shrubs or tall grasses to provide hiding places from predators and add a bench or rock from which you can observe these amazing insects. Butterfly gardening has become big business. Butterfly farms offer live butterflies to release at special occasions, especially weddings. Who knows? Filling the air with butterflies might just lessen a few in the stomachs of the bride and groom.

It’s About Thyme Thyme (Thymus spp.) is native to the sunny slopes of the Mediterranean and once grew wild from Spain to Siberia. The Greeks and Romans considered thyme a symbol of courage and style; they flavored cheese and wine with the pungent herb and bathed in thyme-scented baths before going into battle. During the Crusades, ladies embroidered sprigs of thyme on the sleeves of their knights to keep them brave. The Sumerians wrote of thyme’s antiseptic properties 3,000 years ago. They stepped on it as a strewing herb and burned it in homes and public buildings to cleanse the air and ward off illness. Today, it is an effective ingredient in toothpaste and cough medicine and is used in aromatherapy to treat respiratory ailments. In culinary circles, thyme is of the greatest essence. Its tiny leaves, fresh or dried, liven up salads and enhance the flavor of meat, fish, and poultry. Along with parsley, savory, and marjoram, it makes up the traditional French herbal mixture bouquet garni used to enhance the flavor of soups, sauces, and stews. All thymes are edible and many have their own unique flavors. Use orange or lemon thyme to add a citrus taste to seafood, caraway thyme for breads and meat, and lavender thyme to lend flavor and aroma to soups and casseroles. As versatile in the garden as they are in the kitchen, the dozens of thyme varieties fill a number of roles. Their foliage may be bright green, gray, or yellow, and their spicy flowers range in color from purple to pink to white. Tall varieties like French thyme grow to more than a foot high and can be pruned into a fragrant hedge or tucked in between shrubs or perennials to fill empty spaces in a planting bed. Wooly thyme and creeping thyme, which grow only two inches high, thrive in dry, sunny spots and are perfect for use as a ground cover or a rock garden plant. Planted between the stepping-stones of a garden path, they perfume the air when walked upon. Thymes are easy to grow, asking only for a sunny spot and well- drained soil that is slightly on the dry side. Plus, if you’re a gardener who also likes to cook, you will find that there is never enough thyme.

Beetle Mania One of the most destructive garden insects is the Japanese beetle, a six-legged creature about one-half-inch long with copper-color wing covers and a metallic-green head. It has a voracious appetite for flowers, fruit, and foliage, and dines on hundreds of different plants from birches to poison ivy. The species feeds in groups, quickly stripping a rose of its blooms or reducing leaves to a lacy skeleton. To make matters worse, adult female beetles seek out the best grass available in which to deposit their eggs. Within two weeks white grubs emerge and start feeding on grass roots, causing areas of the lawn to turn brown and die. Japanese beetles overwinter as grubs burrowed about ten inches into the soil; when the soil temperature warms up in spring, they move close to the surface and feed for a short period before pupating and becoming adult beetles. In their native Japan, the beetles cause only minor damage because their population is controlled by natural predators. Not so in the United States: Even though they are a favorite food of skunks and moles and are eaten by many birds, there always seem to be plenty of grubs around. While adult beetles show resistance to pesticides, the grubs are killed, but often at the risk of harming earthworms and beneficial insects. Fortunately, there is a wealth of weapons in the organic arsenal. Milky spore disease, a naturally occurring soil bacteria (Paenibacillus popilliae), kills beetle grubs while not harming valuable insects. It is sold in a powdered form that is spread on the soil and may control grubs for 15 to 20 years. The adults may travel up to five miles for a meal. The presence of beetles on a plant attracts other beetles, so picking the early arrivals from plants will reduce infestation. Pheromone traps catch lots of beetles but draw in many more that are never caught. Place traps at least 30 feet downwind from the plants you want to protect. Botanical sprays containing pyrethrin, garlic, or neem oil will reduce Japanese beetle damage, as will planting chives, garlic, tansy, and other repellent plants among vulnerable plants. Using one or more of these safe controls will help protect birds, earthworms, and beneficial insects, and soon will have you saying sayonara to this garden troublemaker.