Bande à part

We discuss the significance of costume in Otto Preminger’s film Bonjour Tristesse (1958). See also links below. François Sagan, Bonjour Tristesse (1954): http://www.francoisesagan.fr/4.aspx Otto Preminger, Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Saul Bass title sequence: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfxT7CzB94 Photos by Lionel Kazan taken during the filming: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-culture/fashion-books/diaporama/lionel-kazan-remembers-the-filming-of-bonjour-tristesse/34055

We discuss department stores we have known and loved. Kaufhaus Weyrauch: https://www.kaufhaus-weyrauch.de/historie/ Morleys Brixton Department Store: https://www.morleysbrixton.co.uk/about-morleys/ Bon Marché Department Store Brixton: https://thedepartmentstore.com/history/ Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (2008): https://tinyurl.com/y83uz547 Emile Zola, The Ladies' Paradise (1883): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-ladies-paradise-9780199536900 John Guillermin (director), The Crowded Day (1954): http://www.screenonline.org.uk/film/id/1408156/index.html William Wyler (director), Mrs Miniver (1942): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035093/

We wonder what natural makeup is, and marvel at Nick Knight’s photographs of Rihanna. Blog post by cosmeticsandskin about Pan-Cake Make-Up: https://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/cake.php Vogue UK September 2018 Issue Cover: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/rihanna-september-cover-british-vogue-2018 Madame Yevonde: http://www.madameyevonde.com/ Azuma Makoto: http://azumamakoto.com/ Azuma Makoto making iced flowers for Dries van Noten (2015): https://youtu.be/4y8h5bh30-o Victor Stiebel's Overalls for Constance Spry Ltd at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1276042/overalls-stiebel-victor/

We discuss the recent Vivienne Westwood film and ponder what we want from fashion documentaries. Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4378628/ Gillian Greenwood, Vivienne Westwood (1990, episode of The South Bank Show): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1574390/ Douglas Keeve, Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

We discuss the film Smithereens and early 1980s fashion, and what we value in Modern Jewellery. Susan Seidelman (director), Smithereens (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0084698/fullcredits Interview with Susan Berman (1982): https://player.vimeo.com/video/277148700 Maripol: http://www.maripol.com/who-i-am Maribeth Keane & Jessica Lewis on Modernist Jewellery (2009): https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/an-interview-with-modernist-studio-jewelry-collector-marbeth-schon/

We discuss the brilliant Antonio Lopez documentary and ponder on the relationship between 1970s fashion as seen in magazines versus what was worn on the street. Fendi campaign (2018): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a22102910/north-west-kim-kardashian-fendi-campaign/ Matti Suuronen, Futuro House (1968): http://www.thefuturohouse.com/ James Crump, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco (2018): http://sexfashiondisco.com/ Marguerite Duras, Baxter, Vera Baxter (1977): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074190/fullcredits

We talk about the Archaeology of Fashion Film conference and Queer Eye. Archaeology of Fashion Film: http://archfashfilm.arts.ac.uk/ Stella Scott, The Performers (2017): https://www.stellascott.net/the-performers Isaac Lock, Black (2018): http://somesuch.co/directors/isaac-lock/reel/black/ Vitoria de Mello Franco, Divinas (2018): https://www.nowness.com/story/divinas-victoria-de-mello-franco Queer Eye (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7259746/

We discuss holiday packing and capsule wardrobes, and just what makes certain people’s style so visually compelling. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Galina: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Issue 1 of Fashion Studies: https://www.fashionstudies.ca/issue-1 Alison Matthews David, Fashion Victims (2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-victims-9781472577740/

We discuss the wonders of pre-code film Finishing School, and think about Edie Beale’s fashion sense as seen in the new film That Summer. George Nichols Jr. & Wanda Tuchock (directors), Finishing School (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025117/ Women Film Pioneers: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/ccp-wanda-tuchock/ Göran Olsson (director), That Summer (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7057306/

We discuss looking at Antonio and Bouché drawings and the intricacies of cataloguing fashion in the museum. Gray M.C.A: https://www.graymca.com/ Velwyn: http://www.velwyn.com/ Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ What Do We Want From Fashion Writing And Imagery Now?: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/what-do-we-want-from-fashion-writing-and-imagery-now

We discuss World War I London society fashions as seen in Tatler and The Sketch, and the fashion illustration events at The Courtauld Institute. Photographs of Bertram Park: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person.php?LinkID=mp05646&role=art&displayNo=60 Fashion Illustration Now (15 June 2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-now Kenneth Paul Block: https://www.societyillustrators.org/kenneth-paul-block Kenneth Paul Block exhibition at mfa Boston (2015-16): https://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/kenneth-paul-block La Mode en Peinture (published 1982-c.1990): https://www.instagram.com/p/BMtb1RihNpq/?hl=en

We discuss photographs of mock weddings and cross-dressing and the notorious 1973 ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show. Under Cover: A Secret History of Cross-Dressers: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibition/under-cover-secret-history-cross-dressers Sebastien Lifshitz: http://sebastienlifshitz.com/ Bambi (Marie-Pierre Pruvot): https://www.bambi-officiel.com/tout-sur-bambi/ Versailles '73: American Runway Revolution (2013): http://www.versailles73movie.com/ Review of Robin Ghivan, The Battle of Versailles (2015): https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/books/review/the-battle-of-versailles-by-robin-givhan.html

We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance. Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/

We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close. Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/ Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/ V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room Martin Munkacsi at ICP: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/martin-munkacsi?all/all/all/all/0

We discuss interviewing family members (and others) for fashion history, and the wonders of Bonham’s jewellery sales. Exploring 20th Century London website: http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/ 'All about my mother' - article in sisterMag (2012): https://tinyurl.com/y6upplox Instagram account of Bonhams' jewellery department: @bonhamsjewels Instagram account of Emily Barber: @gemilybarber