HowTo - DIY channel

Martin and Dave visit Wickes to choose the tools before heading off to Martin's dad's house to do the job! Plenty of hints and tips but please note: this is really a two man job! For all information and the Wickes Good Ideas Guides, please visit www.wickes.co.uk

Martin and Dave take us through the final stages of laying a real wood floor. For all information and the Wickes Good Ideas Guides, please visit www.wickes.co.uk

Martin and Dave take us through the final stages of laying a real wood floor. For all information and the Wickes Good Ideas Guides, please visit www.wickes.co.uk

Martin and Dave visit Wickes to go through all the tools we need to lay a real wood floor in Martin's dad's living room. For all information and the Wickes Good Ideas Guides, please visit www.wickes.co.uk

Martin and Dave visit Wickes to go through all the tools we need to lay a real wood floor in Martin's dad's living room. For all information and the Wickes Good Ideas Guides, please visit www.wickes.co.uk

It doesn't matter whether you're in the office or at home in the study - wherever you keep your PC and phone line, there's a good chance you'll have a myriad of unsightly wires and cables trailing from your desk, which can often end up in a tangled mess. One way to counteract this is to fit a simple cable tidy device into the top of your desk to round up all the wires and despatch them neatly out of site. You'll need a good power drill for the job, along with a special hole cutter attachment. Cable tidies normally come in two sizes, 60mm or 80mm, and featured within our HowTo.tv video, we fitted the smaller cable tidy using a 60mm cutter drill bit, which has a conventional drill bit at it's centre. Before undertaking any work with an electric drill, you should always consider your personal safety, and wear safety goggles at all times. Modern drills do not require a chuck key as the drill bits can be tightened and loosened by hand, once inserted. Use a tape measure to calculate the exact positioning of your cable tidy, ensuring it is not too close to the edge of the desk, or to the legs. Mark the desired position with a pencil, then drill a test hole with a smaller drill bit, which will pave the way for the larger cutter. If you are happy to proceed, fit the cutter and align the protruding conventional drill bit with your test hole. Drilling slowly at first, work through the desk with the regular drill bit, stopping short of the point where the serrated cutter meets the desk surface. By this stage, the standard drill bit may be though the underside of the desk. Once you ensure that the drill bit is straight, with the serrated teeth just above the surface, start the drill and hold firmly as the drill cuts with a circular motion. Do not cut straight through the desk without checking that the drill is coming through cleanly, as you may get splintering of the wood, and a jagged,unsightly finish. The centre piece should drop cleanly though the new hole once finished. Vacuum away the dust, and drop your desk cable tidy into place.

It doesn't matter whether you're in the office or at home in the study - wherever you keep your PC and phone line, there's a good chance you'll have a myriad of unsightly wires and cables trailing from your desk, which can often end up in a tangled mess. One way to counteract this is to fit a simple cable tidy device into the top of your desk to round up all the wires and despatch them neatly out of site. You'll need a good power drill for the job, along with a special hole cutter attachment. Cable tidies normally come in two sizes, 60mm or 80mm, and featured within our HowTo.tv video, we fitted the smaller cable tidy using a 60mm cutter drill bit, which has a conventional drill bit at it's centre. Before undertaking any work with an electric drill, you should always consider your personal safety, and wear safety goggles at all times. Modern drills do not require a chuck key as the drill bits can be tightened and loosened by hand, once inserted. Use a tape measure to calculate the exact positioning of your cable tidy, ensuring it is not too close to the edge of the desk, or to the legs. Mark the desired position with a pencil, then drill a test hole with a smaller drill bit, which will pave the way for the larger cutter. If you are happy to proceed, fit the cutter and align the protruding conventional drill bit with your test hole. Drilling slowly at first, work through the desk with the regular drill bit, stopping short of the point where the serrated cutter meets the desk surface. By this stage, the standard drill bit may be though the underside of the desk. Once you ensure that the drill bit is straight, with the serrated teeth just above the surface, start the drill and hold firmly as the drill cuts with a circular motion. Do not cut straight through the desk without checking that the drill is coming through cleanly, as you may get splintering of the wood, and a jagged,unsightly finish. The centre piece should drop cleanly though the new hole once finished. Vacuum away the dust, and drop your desk cable tidy into place.

Learning to fit shower trays - UK presenter Gavin is here to show you everything you ever wanted to know about choosing a new shower, fitting shower trays and giving your bathroom a smart new look. The actual plumbing and electrical work involved is a job that requires a degree of expertise, and one that you’ll want professional help with. In this episode Gavin helps to choose and fit a shower tray. You may have an existing shower tray that you want to replace, or you might be starting from scratch. If you are, then go for the biggest size you can fit into your bathroom. The first thing to do is get your tape measure out and check the space you have available, taking into consideration the eventual location of the cubicle door, and the proximity of your other bathroom fitments, such as toilets and washbasins. There are many different shapes and styles of shower tray to choose from and they come in a range of materials. There are a few useful tips about preparation that can save you time and money later on. When you’re deciding where to site your shower, you need to consider the pipe runs for water supply and waste, as well as checking the electrical wiring requirements if you’re getting an electric or pumped power shower installed. The most important aspect about fitting a tray is ensuring it is level, ready for tiling. If you’re watching this via the website, you can scroll your mouse over the video and when the areas highlight you can click on them including UK shower trays for more information from the Screwfix Direct website. You can also download this video to play on your mobile device, and use it to refer to in the bathroom.

Learning to fit shower trays - UK presenter Gavin is here to show you everything you ever wanted to know about choosing a new shower, fitting shower trays and giving your bathroom a smart new look. The actual plumbing and electrical work involved is a job that requires a degree of expertise, and one that you’ll want professional help with. In this episode Gavin helps to choose and fit a shower tray. You may have an existing shower tray that you want to replace, or you might be starting from scratch. If you are, then go for the biggest size you can fit into your bathroom. The first thing to do is get your tape measure out and check the space you have available, taking into consideration the eventual location of the cubicle door, and the proximity of your other bathroom fitments, such as toilets and washbasins. There are many different shapes and styles of shower tray to choose from and they come in a range of materials. There are a few useful tips about preparation that can save you time and money later on. When you’re deciding where to site your shower, you need to consider the pipe runs for water supply and waste, as well as checking the electrical wiring requirements if you’re getting an electric or pumped power shower installed. The most important aspect about fitting a tray is ensuring it is level, ready for tiling. If you’re watching this via the website, you can scroll your mouse over the video and when the areas highlight you can click on them including UK shower trays for more information from the Screwfix Direct website. You can also download this video to play on your mobile device, and use it to refer to in the bathroom.

By following a few simple steps, we can give you some tips about building a simple wall shelf that will look good, be level, and still be on the wall the following day! The basic materials you'll need are brackets, glass paper, screws of a suitable type and length dependant on what you want to use the shelf for, the shelf itself and wall fixings. As for tools, you'll need a Centre punch, a hammer, hammer drill and drill bits for masonry and wood, marking gauge, a pencil, a suitable screwdriver, a spirit level, a steel rule, tape measure and a cable finder. The type of wood you choose depends on what you want to use it for. A heavier load needs a stronger shelf. Check that your wall is strong enough to carry the weight of your shelf and its load. Your local DIY supplier will advise you on the correct shelf. Next you must choose the correct fixing for your wall. For most internal brick or concrete block plaster internal walls, use a strong plastic wall plug and wool screws: 3.2 mm or 5.5 mm are good. Before you start revving the drill up, check the wall for cables using your cable and pipe finder, and mark the position of any cables or pipes. Move any furniture out of the way. You may want to put a dust sheet below where you plan to put the shelf, and have the hoover nearby. You are now three steps away from your fitted shelf . Step 1 – Mark the wall where the bottom of the shelf will be. Make a horizontal line through this point, with a pencil and spirit level. If your spirit level is a short one, you may have to rest it on the edge of the shelf. Mark the length of the shelf on the horizontal line, then make the position of your brackets. You will need to get a span chart which advises on the span between brackets given the type of wood, the shelf thickness and the eventual shelf usage. For example, a hardwood shelf, 15mm thick to be used for heavy books would require a 450mm span between the brackets. Set the end brackets between 100 and 150mm in from the shelf ends. This will avoid the likelihood of a banana shaped shelf. Mark some vertical lines where the brackets will go. Step 2 – Attach the Brackets, by holding one bracket against the wall, with a small piece of wood on the projecting arm. Align it with the vertical and horizontal lines of an end bracket. Make the screw holes on the wall with a bradawl. Use a hammer and centre punch to mark the screw positions. Then use a hammer drill and masonry bit to drill holes that suit the wall plugs. Insert the wall plugs and attach the brackets firmly to the wall. Fix the second bracket in the same way at the opposite end of the shelf. If you're fitting a long shelf and need a third centre bracket, use a line of thread between the two end brackets to line this up. Step 3 – Screw the brackets to the shelf to secure the shelf and stop it tipping over. Now is the moment of truth, as you load up your new shelf

This step by step guide relates to a conventional pillar cold water tap, rather than a mixer or wall tap. The tools you will need are a screwdriver, an adjustable spanner, multi-grip pliers, a new washer or a washer and jumper unit. Taps usually leak for three reasons: a faulty washer, a worn seat, gland packing/O rings need replacing. Make sure you buy the right washer and o-ring for your tap. The first thing to do is turn off the water supply, either at the isolating valves under the taps, but more likely at the main stopcock. Open the tap full on to drain away any water left in the pipe. It's a good tip to put the plug in the sink so that you don't lose any small parts down the plughole. If the tap has a cover, remove the coloured red or Blue /hot or cold indicator button, undo the head retaining screw beneath and lift off the handle. If the tap in question doesn't have a cover, the nuts are more easily accessible. The main valve nut should be undone with an adjustable spanner. Another tip, to protect the nut against scratches when removing it, is to place a cloth between the nut and spanner. It's very important to hold on to the tap while undoing the nut, to stop the body of the tap turning rather than the nut. If this happens it can lead to leaks in the pipe work. Lift out the whole upper part of the tap, and remove the spindle or jumper value that carries the washer. Check the washer next. If it looks old and rough there is a good chance this will be the cause of the leak. If this is the case remove the old washer. This may be held in place by a nut, so hold the jumper valve with a small pair of pliers and undo the nut with a small spanner, and put on a new washer. You can use a new jumper valve with a washer already attached. Check the washer seat for wear, which will stop it making a perfect seal. A plastic seating grommet may be pushed in to make a new seat. Push the grommet into the hole. Replace the tap assembly in reverse order and screw the handle back down. This will bed in the grommet and a new seat. If the grommet is too large or small, the tap may leak. If the tap is leaking from the spindle, the O ring could need replacing. Remove the spring or circlip from the spindle, screw out or tap out the spindle and replace the o ring. If you have any doubts at any stage of your DIYrepairs, consult a qualified plumber.

Replacing or upgrading your door handle can be a straight forward project, with a few simple steps to follow. When your choosing your new handle, unscrew your old one and take it to the store to compare sizes. You'll need to be certain if your door is left side or right side opening, so that you get the handle for the right or left side of the door. To undertake the job, you'll need the following tools – a new handle, a latch set with screws a drill and safety goggles. Be careful to check that your new set of door handles comes complete with a latch, as sometimes they are sold separately. Getting your old handle off can sometimes be tricky. If it has screws on the cover plates, remove those to loosen the old knob. Otherwise you may have to look for a slot on the side of the handle that has a piece of metal sticking out of it. You can use the end of a flathead screwdriver to push in on the metal, and the old doorknob or handle will pop loose. Take off the handle to reveal the plate below. Find a part of the plate where it butts against the door. Wedge a flathead screwdriver in the slot, and twist the plate lightly to pop it off. Now the plate has gone, you should see the screws, which can be removed with a power drill. If using a drill, always remember the safety checklist. Remove the original latch by taking out the screws with a power drill or screwdriver. Screw the new latch in, getting the screws hand tight at first, and tighten with a power drill or screwdriver. Time to put the new handles in place. Set the screws by hand as before. Ideally use a screwdriver to ensure you don't overtighten the screws. Test the key if you have one, and make sure the door shuts and locks properly.

Changing and wiring a plug may seem like one of the easiest tasks in the world, but you'd be surprised how many people get it wrong. And getting it wrong can cause a serious risk of fire of electric shock. Follow this how to guide when you're wiring your plug, but if you have any doubts whatsoever, consult a qualified electrician. Your electrical appliance has broken down, and you've identified that the plug is at fault. To do the job you'll need a new plug fitted with a fuse, screwdrivers and a good knife with a wire cutter attachment if possible. Carefully remove the old plug, making a note of the fuse rating inside. You may have lost the instructions to your appliance, so this could be the only reference that you have. Strip off the outer cable cover to expose 4cm of the insulated wire. When preparing the individual wires to go inside the plug, the yellow and green earth should be the longest, followed by the blue neutral wire, with the brown live wire being the shortest. Remove the insulation to leave about 1 centimetre of exposed metal core on each wire. Make sure you don't cut any of the strands of wire when you remove the insulation. Twist the strands of wire togther neatly. Connect your wires to the correct terminals - the brown live wire to the terminal on the fuse holder marked L, the blue neutral wire to the terminal marked N and the green and yellow earth wire to the terminal at the top of the plug marked E. Some appliances do not have an earth wire because they are double insulated, but if you have one, you must fit it. The design of plugs can very, but fit the exposed metal core of each wire through or around each terminal, tightening the terminal screws with a screwdriver. Ensure there is no exposed loose strands of wire, and that the insulation reaches right up to each terminal. Modern plugs can have cord grips, but some have a bar to hold the flex, secured by two screws. Push the flex firmly in to the cord grip, making sure that the grip fastens on the outer insulation and not the insulation wires. Check your instructions on the appliance to see what rating of fuse is required, and fit the correct one. Screw the plug cover back on, making sure that none of the outer insulation is cracked or chipped. Time for one more look - there are many wrong ways to wire a plug, but only one right way.

Getting a smoke alarm can help save lives and save your home. There's no good excuse for not getting one, you can buy a basic model for a few pounds. They provide two basic functions, to detect a fire and warn you about it, by means of an alarm. Once you have decided which type of smoke alarm to buy, ionisation, optical or a combined model, you need to know where and how to fit it. For the purpose of HowTo video, we have chosen a standard battery powered smoke alarm. The battery needs to be replaced every 12 months, although you can now buy sealed alarms fitted with 10 and 15 year batteries. Mains powered alarms do away with the cost of fitting and checking a battery, but should be installed by a qualified electrician. The number of some alarms you fit depends on your personal circumstances. The more you have, the safer you'll be. If your home is on one floor, a minimum of one optical smoke alarm can provide you with early warning of a fire. If your home has more than one floor, at least one alarm should be fitted on each level, probably on the hall and landing ceilings. Positioning of the alarm is very important. Do not fit an alarm in the kitchen or bathroom as cooking fumes or steam may set it off. To fit your alarm you'll probably need a sturdy pair of step ladders and the tools specified in the Your alarm should be screwed into the ceiling, as close to the centre of the room as possible, but at least 12 inches away from a wall or light fitting. It must be fitted in a place that can be heard throughout the home, especially if you're asleep. If your home is on one level, you should fit the alarm in the hallway between the living and sleeping areas. If you have two floors, place an alarm at the top of the stairs leading to the bedrooms, where you can hear it when you're asleep. Always follow the manufacturers instructions at all times, this is particularly important if you are installing mains powered alarms. There are some handy tips which can ensure that you have effective alarms.Set aside just a few minutes each year to check your alarm is working - this could save your life and the lives of your family. Once a week, test each alarm you have by depressing the test button until the alarm sounds. Once a year change the battery (unless it's a 10 or 15 year battery). Every six months open the case and gently vacuum the inside to remove dust from the sensors. If it's sealed, vacuum through the vents. Every 10 years, buy a whole new alarm.If you ensure your alarms are properly fitted, sited and maintained, it can give you precious extra minutes to escape from a fire in the home. Always check your battery, replace it when necessary, and never ever remove it for any other purposes. And don't be tempted to fit an alarm yourself if you feel unsteady or unsure about the procedure - you could fall and hurt yourself. You can get more advice from your local fire service.

If you're looking for an alternative window covering to a curtain, roller blinds may be your answer. Often a daunting prospect to install, you can fit of one these if you follow this simple step by step guide. You'll need these 4 basic materials: a window blind, double sided tape, screws and wall fixings. Do consult the manufacturers instructions and any diagrams that come with the product. In terms of tools, you'll need the following: Electric Drill, drill bits including a masonry bit, screwdriver, a bradawl, a spirit level, steel tape measure, a pencil. For the purposes of this HowTo video we are fitting a cord operated roller blind outside the window recess. The alternative is to fit it in to a window recess, but this may require it to be cut to size. You should decide where and how to hang the blind before you buy it. Measure the width and the drop, and take the measurements with you when visiting the store. Your brackets can be either be face fixed or top fixed, using either the side fixing holes or the top ones. When positioning the blind, never bore close to the edge of plaster or brickwork – always allow a minimum clearance of 50mm. Mark the position of the screw holes. Then use a drill and masonry bit to suit the wall fixing and drill fixing holes. Insert the wall fixings, and screw the brackets to the wall. Now for the blind fitting. Position the sidewinder end of the blind into the bracket. You will be putting the square peg into the square hole. At the opposite end, insert the dummy pin into the bracket feeder channel to the central point. Snap the blind into position in the round hole. To make the blind go up and down, simply pull the side cord. Use the back chord to lower, and the front cord to raise it. To remove the blind from its brackets, simply apply some gentle pressure to the dummy pin end, pushing upwards for top fixed brackets and inwards towards the window for face or side fixed brackets. The blind will now feed through the channel until it is free. Pull the sidewinder end of the blind out of its bracket to remove.