the Sharp End Podcast

Jes Scott and Erica Ellefsen set out to travel 80km from Mt. Washington to Flower Ridge over eight days. Their goal was to climb eight of Strathcona Park’s tallest and most remote mountains. Strathcona Provincial Park is the oldest provincial park in British Columbia, Canada, and the largest on Vancouver Island. They wanted a trip that was physically demanding but less scary than their usual mountaineering trips. Listen in to this episode to hear what went wrong during their traverse and how their Garmin InReach device was the tool they needed to get rescued. You can read more about this accident on Jes’s personal blog: https://webelongoutside.com/2020/08/a-long-traverse-in-strathcona-park-where-many-things-go-wrong/ This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, Wilderness Medicine Reference App and Desert Mountain Medicine. Sign up to win the Garmin InReach Mini on Instagram by tagging a friend AND sharing one thing you learned from this episode. I will do the drawing May 15th. Good luck! Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Jean and Ken summited Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the continental US, on what they thought would be their last day of the trip. On the summit they were caught in a severe snow and lightning storm. Using their ice axes, they began to descend via the north face in full self-arrest position. Ken fell 800 feet down the mountain while Jean, not knowing his fate, continued down slowly and methodically towards him. Then, at one point during her descent, Jean fell 165 feet bouncing on rocks through a cliff band enduring massive trauma to her body. Listen to this episode to hear a story of extreme grit, tenacity and survival. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Buy Jean’s book at https://www.jeanmuenchrath.com Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Near-misses are greatly under-reported in general, yet they are plentiful. What leads them to be under-reported? Joel Reid, the Washington Program Director at the Northwest Outward Bound School and Steve Smith, from Experiential Consulting, chat with Ashley about why near-misses matter and the importance of reporting near misses in an institutional setting. You don’t want to miss this informative chat. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

We put together a survey in early February so we could get to know our listeners better. We want to know who you are and what you think of the show. Over 400 people filled out this survey and we gathered some good information. Listen in as Dustin from Podboarder and Ashley talk about the results and read some of the comments from fans. By filling out the February survey, you entered to win 1 of 3 prizes. 1. One year American Alpine Membership 2. Pair of Rocky Talkies 3. Aceso Hemp Prize Pack This episode is directed by Ashley Saupe and produced by Dustin at Podboarder. Thanks to the American Alpine Club, Rocky Talkies and Aceso for hooking up my listeners with awesome prizes. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

A fumarole is an opening in the earth which emits steam and gases such as carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, and hydrogen sulfide. The steam forms when superheated water boils as its pressure drops when it emerges from the ground. These holes can be very dangerous. Listen to episode 61 as Scott tells Ashley about his fall into a fumarole during a solo ski mo attempt on Mt Hood in Oregon. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, COROS and Desert Mountain Medicine. Win a prize package from our sponsors by taking our listener survey at: https://sharpend.typeform.com/to/F61rWth9 Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

After five consecutive years of producing the Sharp End Podcast, Steve Smith at Experiential Consulting turns the tables on podcast creator Ashley Saupe and interviews her! Listen as Ashley and Steve talk about a few incidents she's had in the backcountry, how she's managed them and why she is inspired to continue producing this podcast for her listeners. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Desert Mountain Medicine, Experiential Consulting, and Aceso Hemp. Did you know that January is National CBD Month? I’ve spent some time learning more about CBD and how to integrate into my daily life thanks to some friends at Aceso Hemp. Aceso uses the restorative power of plants to create highly targeted products, with lines that support Wellness, Calming, and Soothing. I’ve been using their topical balms (they have heat, cool, and soothing) for aches and injuries and the soothing blend of essential oils and hemp have really helped alleviate the pain. Check out how CBD can support your wellness routine with code SHARPEND for 25% off sitewide, at www.AcesoHemp.com

On the morning of September 5, Annie Weinmann and her climbing partner started up the North Chimney, a broad 500-foot slot that leads climbers to the Diamond, Colorado's premier alpine wall. Annie had done the North Chimney before and was comfortable climbing the easy terrain unroped and in approach shoes. But when she got slightly off-route, a foot slip led to a terrible tumble. In Episode 39 of the Sharp End, Annie tells Ashley what happened and how she survived a 200-foot fall, plus some fascinating insight into the circumstances that brought her to this point. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Tyler Willis and a friend were descending from a successful ascent of Mt. Owen in Grand Teton National Park. It was late in the day when they reached the Teton Glacier, which they had crossed without a problem early that morning. Just a few steps later, Tyler plunged into a hidden crevasse, an extremely rare accident for the Tetons. By the time climbers pulled him to the surface, he was hypothermic, and it wasn't until the next day that rangers could helicopter him to safety. Hear all about it in Episode 58 of the Sharp End. Visit Sharpendpodcast.com to find video footage from the rescue and information on recognizing and treating hypothermia. The Sharp End podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Brian Vines was a high school senior and a budding climber in the 1990s when he and some friends went to Sand Rock, Alabama, for a day of top-roping. On their last climb, a simple mistake led to a damaging ground fall. More than two decades later, Brian and Ashley look back at that day in Episode 57 of the Sharp End. After many years away from the sport, Brian has returned to climbing, and his 14-year-old son, J.T., now leads many of their climbs. But the lessons from that day at Sand Rock still guide their every move. The Sharp End Podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain, Suunto, Minus33, and Ski Babes. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Scott Reed and a friend trekked more than five miles into the mountains west of Denver to attempt a long, moderate ice climb during the short days of late December. At an elevation around 12,000 feet, they climbed several pitches and then, in high wind, decided to bail back down the route. Toward the bottom, Scott, age 23 at the time, pondered whether or not to rappel from just one small piece of protection and save a little money. As it turned out, his decision would be much more costly than he imagined. In Episode 56 of the Sharp End, Scott speaks with Ashley about his long fall, the incredible self-rescue back to their car, and the lessons he learned (including the value of satellite communication devices on remote climbs). The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Summit day on Mt. Rainier had just begun. Less than an hour out of high camp, carefully leading her team up a well-trodden boot track, Rita Hansen suddenly plunged into a crevasse. After falling more than 60 feet, she was completely buried by falling ice and snow. Amazingly, Rita was basically unharmed. But she couldn’t move. In episode 55 of the Sharp End, Rita shares the details of her 2007 accident and rescue, a story she has never told publicly before. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Four friends from all over the United States met in eastern Utah in February 2020 to go canyoneering. They were all experienced canyoneers and had done trips together before. As they exited Angel Cove Canyon by the final rappel of the day, Fiona, 33, was the last person down. In Episode 54 of the Sharp End, Fiona's three companions describe what went wrong with her rappel and share some stories about their remarkable friend. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Three friends set out for a popular waterfall hike on the north shore of Kauai in late December. A high-surf warning had been issued, but the hikers didn't expect their route to take them close to the beach. Plans change, however, and accidents sometimes sneak up on you. In Episode 53 of the Sharp End, Alexandra Williams tells Ashley how a series of events led them into a very dangerous situation. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional annual support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode is also supported by Mystery Ranch. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Denali mountaineering ranger and flight nurse Dave Weber returns to the Sharp End to talk COVID-19 and the issues related to outdoor recreation, first response to accidents, and staying sane during a tough stretch for outdoor adventurers. Don't forget to enter Mammut's big gear giveaway this month. Head to https://americanalpineclub.org/sharp-end-podcast to sign up. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. Support for this episode also was provided by Coros. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Hari Mix, a very experienced mountaineer, had planned a rare and difficult winter-season traverse of the White Mountains, the high, remote range separating California from Nevada. He had studied the weather forecasts carefully and packed the right gear, but when an intense storm struck the crest of the ridge, Hari's challenging outing became a struggle for survival. Learn what happened in episode 51 of the Sharp End! The Sharp End Podcast is sponsored by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.