Conscious Chatter with Kestrel Jenkins

In episode 64 of Conscious Chatter, Kestrel welcomes self-taught designer Mia Vesper to the show. While Mia may be a new name to the fashion scene, she’s turning heads left and right. From Vogue to W Magazine to Man Repeller, the big guys are taking note. A 25-year old designer, Mia brings two key elements into her eye-catching designs: reinvention and recycling. In this chat, Kestrel asks Mia about her approach to design, and how she sources the vintage tapestries that are so integral to the pieces she creates. The two discuss the idea of "having your thing" as a designer, and its importance in today's overly noisy state. Mia shares her thoughts on a conundrum she's been facing for quite some time now: to build an ethical business or to build a profitable business, and the questions she's faced with on a regular basis, when she wants to build a better brand. Also, listen to hear some entertaining stories from two fashion-driven women who have roots in Wisconsin. 

In episode 63, Kestrel welcomes Arianne Engelberg, the Creative Director of The New Denim Project to the show. An innovative product line out of Iris Textiles in Guatemala, The New Denim Project makes textiles and products from upcycled pre-consumer denim waste. Arianne shares stories of the evolution of her family's factory over the years - her grandparents originally started it back in the 1950s. Also, Arianne explains more in detail the process behind the upcycled textiles they have developed, and where the waste they use comes from. In addition, Arianne addresses the way she and the New Denim Project have found creative ways to tackle their own waste from their manufacturing process, as they work to push the limits when it comes to building a closed loop company. One of Kestrel's highlights from this show was how Arianne explained that she and her team members have discovered over time, that as textile manufacturers, they actually do have a massive amount of power when it comes to helping to shift the future of the fashion industry.

In episode 62, Kestrel welcomes guests Ian Rosenberger, the founder and CEO of Thread, and Zachary Angelini, the Environmental Stewardship Manager at Timberland. Ian and Zack share some of the stories behind the Thread x Timberland collaboration, which is made of Thread’s Ground to Good™ fabric, harvested from plastic bottles littering the streets and landfills of Haiti. Kestrel also asks Zack to share his mindset on Timberland's approach to sustainability, especially considering the company's high-reaching goals for 2020, including wanting to have 100% organic, US-origin or better cotton, as well as 100% recycled, organic or renewable materials in their shoes. Finally, Kestrel asks Ian to share his insight on the microfilament issue, which now tends to arise in any conversation connected to recycled plastic fabrics. Ian's response brings light to other ways of potentially looking at this issue, from a more holistic approach.

In episode 61, Kestrel welcomes Dechel McKillian, founder of Galerie.LA and former stylist for the Black Eyed Peas and Lil Wayne to the show. They talk all things personal style and curation, and explore how sustainability fits into these approaches. With a background in psychobiology, Dechel shares her thoughts on how technology and fast fashion are influencing a general loss of personal style, and that the homogenization of culture is potentially influencing us to lose our own identities to only become "what is popular". Kestrel and Dechel also explore the importance of curation when it comes to the future of fashion. From Dechel's perspective, quality over quantity wins; she reminds us that owning your own aesthetic could potentially help you buy less and love your clothes more.

In this week's episode, Kestrel welcomes two guests to the show: Jason Kibbey, the CEO of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and Alden Wicker, writer and founder of EcoCult. The idea for this show exploded for Kestrel after she read an article Alden wrote for Racked: “We Have No Idea How Bad Fashion Actually Is For The Environment”. It struck a chord with her -- and many other people who have been using the same unverified fact over and over again in our conversations: the global fashion industry is the 2nd most polluting industry in the world.  In this chat, Jason shares his thoughts on where we are currently when it comes to determining the "impact" of the fashion industry. He highlights the reality that creating standards can be especially difficult in the fashion industry because value judgements will inevitably come into play. He also shares what The Sustainable Apparel Coalition is working on with the Higg Index. Kestrel, Jason and Alden also dive deep into the question of whether conscious consumerism can make an impact, and if so - how much. The search for analytics in the fashion industry is a constant thread throughout this conversation.

In episode 59, Kestrel had the opportunity to visit the Patagonia Headquarters in Ventura, CA to record an in-person interview with 2 key players in the Patagonia game. Helena Barbour is the Senior Director of Global Sportswear at Patagonia, and Thuy Nguyen is the Manager of Social Responsibility and Special Programs. The two have played a large role in building out Patagonia's Fair Trade initiative - in conjunction with Fair Trade USA - in recent years.  In light of Fashion Revolution Day this year, and a continued hope to instigate more respect for the people who make our clothes, this chat is focused heavily on the concept and implementation of Fair Trade initiatives in the garment supply chain. Kestrel asks Thuy and Helena to share more about the evolution of the program at Patagonia, including their thoughts on where they started and where they have come. In addition, they discuss the logistics of how the Fair Trade program works, and how it has the potential to help support local communities around the world. Kestrel brings "scalability" to the table again, and Thuy and Helena provide their insight on the scalability of fair trade manufacturing, and how collaboration is key to the future success of this program. When it comes to storytelling, the three discuss how complicated it still is to bring up the sustainable fashion conversation with an inclusive, nonjudgemental approach. To close, Thuy and Helena each share their ideas on how we can continue to work on small ways of bringing a more conscious approach to what we wear.

In episode 58, Kestrel welcomes on Cynthia Powers, the Facilitating Manager of Eileen Fisher’s clothing take back program, Fisher Found, as well as Teslin Doud, who was part of Eileen Fisher’s Social Innovators Project, helping develop some of the company’s circular design components. Kestrel asks Cynthia and Teslin about Fisher Found’s origins, intention and goals. In addition, Cynthia and Teslin share more insight on the meaning behind the program’s three Rs: Reworn, Renewed, and Remade. The three also discuss the future of take back programs and what we might expect down the line. This week’s episode was sponsored by The Fourth Gentlemen, who make accessories from bamboo and cork. Why are their bamboo sunnies so amazing? Bamboo is a renewable resource and apparently one of the fastest growing plants on the planet. It’s super flexible and lightweight - often I’ve forgotten I have these shares on because they’re like a feather. They float! If you like sailing or being on the water like me, these are a great option - I’ve lost many a pair of sunglasses to the depths below over the years.

In episode 57, Kestrel welcomes Liza Moiseeva to the show. Liza is the co-founder of GlobeIn, a social business dedicated to supporting remote artisans from around the world. Their primary product is a monthly Artisan Box subscription, where every product fights poverty through job creation and fair wages. Kestrel and Liza discuss the importance of storytelling when it comes to artisan and fair trade products, and Liza shares her insight on how she thinks the "subscription box" could be changing the future of online retail. For Liza, the concept of discovery is really intriguing to her and how it can influence shoppers down the line. Kestrel addresses the question of whether subscription models are inspiring a constant flow of "more stuff" and Liza shares her thoughts on how there may be ways to find a conscious balance within the box model.  People + Brands Liza Addressed During The Show: + Muhammad Yunus + Matr Boomie + Kiva + Amour Vert

In episode 56, Kestrel welcomes on Lona Alia, founder and CEO of Style Lend, an online marketplace that hosts hundreds of designer styles that users can rent for a fraction of the cost and return after a week's time. Called the "AirBnB for clothes" by TechCrunch, Style Lend is working on shaking up the online rental fashion scene by giving women access to other women's impressive closets. In this chat, Kestrel asks Lona how she addresses the difficulties of having enough inventory for renters, given that peer-to-peer models often pose a struggle in creating enough supply for the demand. In addition, she questions whether rental sites will embrace more sustainable brands down the line, being that the majority of them are built on offering "luxury, name brands" at a reduced rate for renters. Kestrel and Lona discuss the concept of buying clothing for longevity, not only for its quality, but also for its resell value.

In episode 55, Kestrel welcomes Summer Rayne Oakes to the show. Known as “the first eco model”, Summer's experiences and knowledge go far beyond her notable look. With an education focused on ecology and entomology (the study of insects), she has worked in 2 distinct realms of the sustainability conversation: food and fashion. Kestrel asks Summer for insight on what the fashion world could potentially learn from the food world, and vice versa. They discuss regenerative agriculture, the politics of slow food and fashion, and how technology may help and/or hinder the future of fashion. Another theme that resonates throughout this chat is the idea of scaling, how it's been ingrained into our culture, and why scalability has become synonymous with success. For more on Summer's current projects, you can check out her book SUGARDETOX.ME, and her website Homestead Brooklyn, which helps us become more connected to nature while living in a city. 

In episode 54, Kestrel connects with Sandra Capponi, the Co-Founder & Head of Development for Good On You, an app that helps you find fashion that has a positive impact on people, the planet and animals. Nowadays, there’s literally an app for everything. In this chat, Sandra shares insight on how she believes that apps can make an impact, and how giving people access to information can empower them to make better decisions. Kestrel asks Sandra about the sharing of information and how apps can potentially work together to aggregate their information, and collaborate on pushing for change. Also, they explore further the idea of "inconvenience" that arose in episode 52 with Whitney Bauck of Fashionista, and how it affects our purchasing habits.  Click here to check out more on the Good On You app, and what they're up to!

In episode 53, our first episode of Season 2, Kestrel connect with natural dye guru Kathy Hattori. As the founder of Botanical Colors, Kathy works to bring natural dyeing processes to larger scale production facilities, and also collaborates with designers on small batch dye projects. In this chat, Kathy breaks down the big differences between conventional and natural dyes, and the scaleability of the latter. Also, Kestrel and Kathy talk about "brilliance of dyes," and how this can be interpreted differently, depending on your relationship with color and its meaning. Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) are the chemicals that Kathy mentioned have extremely harmful effects. Research has shown that - when washed - NPEs are released from clothing and in turn, discharged into our waterways, where they turn into the even more toxic and hormone-disrupting chemical nonylphenol (NP). More on Greenpeace's Detox program here >

In this week's episode, Kestrel has the chance to welcome on one of her notable "Instagram-turned-real-life" connections: Whitney Bauck, an assistant editor at Fashionista. On her personal blog, Unwrinkling, Whitney explores the intersection of fashion, faith and ethics.  In this chat, Whitney shares insight on what led her into the ethical fashion conversation. It's interesting to hear how she has embraced her role at Fashionista not only to write about style, but also to bring ethics, supply chains and transparency into the conversation, when relevant. Kestrel & Whitney discuss the idea of digital whistleblowers and whether digital activism can actually make an impact.  Below, are some of the super cool brands Whitney mentioned she's currently loving: + Uniform + Tara + Vaquera This week's episode was sponsored by Pathways For Promise, a new recruitment initiative at AUW (Asian University for Women) which identifies talented women among current garment factory workers and provides them with the academic, financial, and professional support to earn their Bachelor's degrees and become leaders in their chosen fields. You can learn more about the Asian University for Women here >

Episode 51 | YOUTH FASHION SUMMIT + THE NEXT GENERATION

Episode 50 | THINK DIRTY + THE SEARCH FOR CLEAN BEAUTY