The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see people making with their training.

I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other suprising methodologies.

Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.

I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.

Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.

Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.

Life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful as a climber, a family member, and in your career.

Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear, low confidence, and a lack of power endurance in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.

In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he became the first Australian to climb 9a while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.