The Jewelry District

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates dive into the hottest trends ahead, from more Barbie-fueled obsession with pink to nostalgic necklaces. (Think Rubik’s Cubes, robots, and all things ’80s.) Equally newsworthy is the luxury world’s laser focus on bigger, better brick and mortar—a high-end land grab that belies the digital-first future predicted during the pandemic. Finally, some of the world’s most elite watch brands are tuning in to hip-hop, EDM, and both genres’ massive hype-building power.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates sit down with Jeffrey Post, research associate and curator emeritus, to hear where his love for minerology began. Jeffrey describes a visitor’s experience to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History as well as some of the stories attached to the gems he has encountered over the course of his 32 years as its curator of gems and minerals (including a once-in-a-lifetime chance to study the famous Hope and Wittelsbach Graff diamonds side-by-side).Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss Victoria’s recent custom ring experience, the State of the Art Jewelry Summit, and commemorate the 100th episode of The Jewelry District.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates sit down with Jeffery Bolling of Colorado-based Jeffery B. Jewelers about his journey from serving in the U.S. Army to selling diamonds to becoming Colorado’s only African American–owned fine diamond, full-service jeweler. Jeffery plays a vital role in the diamonds-do-good story through his commitment to sourcing diamonds responsibly from companies owned by Black Africans, selling stones cut by Black African cutters, and leveraging his position and expertise to encourage greater diversity in the jewelry industry.

Just back from JCK Las Vegas, JCK editor-in-chief 

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates sit down with Jeffery Fowler, CEO of the influential watch website Hodinkee (https://www.hodinkee.com/) to learn how the company got its unusual name and to hear about the path that led him to it. Jeff also speculates on the reason mechanical watches inspire such lasting passion (they’re science projects wrapped in history projects wrapped in art projects), offers predictions for the booming pre-owned watch market, and explains why good retailers are the best brand ambassadors.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes00:50 Victoria Visits Botswana2:28 How Hodinkee Got its Name5:29 From Harvard to Hodinkee18:54 Consumers’ Love Affair with Watches27:31 In Praise of RetailersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow RecapVictoria Visits BotswanaJust back from a week in Botswana with De Beers, Victoria shares the highlights of an incredible journey that included a visit to the De Beers (http://www.debeers.com/) sorting facility, the jaw-dropping Jwaneng diamond mine, and Chobe National Park, where elephant herds still roam the savannah. She promises to recount more about her adventures in a future podcast.How Hodinkee Got its NameVictoria introduces Hodinkee CEO Jeffery Fowler, and Rob asks him to explain how one of the most influential voices in the watch world got its unusual name. Hodinky is the Czech word for “wristwatch,” Jeff explains. When company founder Ben Clymer launched his watch blog in 2008, he chose the word because it seemed unique enough to be memorable and quirky enough to spark curiosity. Double vowels were trending in the corporate world (Google, Goop, Yahoo), so he adjusted the spelling.Since then, Hodinkee has grown into a powerhouse with its own ecommerce platform and an award-winning magazine.From Harvard to HodinkeeJeff earned an undergraduate degree at Harvard and an MBA at INSEAD in France before joining LVMH (https://www.lvmh.com/), where he began his career as an assistant retail store manager for Louis Vuitton in London. From there, he moved to Tag Heuer (https://www.tagheuer.com/), then Cartier (http://www.cartier.com/), Tesla, and Farfetch, where he stayed spent six years overseeing businesses across North and South America before joining Hodinkee in 2022. He sums his career up as “an exciting, fun, adventure-filled journey.”In late 2021, Jeff was taking a break from his career to spend time with his wife and three young sons when he got a call from a recruiter about Hodinkee. He admired Ben Clymer as a pioneer in bringing the watch world online—and doing it in an approachable way that emphasized storytelling, curiosity, and wit. But he remembered it simply as a blog. He was surprised to learn that the company had moved far beyond its original mission, becoming the world’s first online-only authorized retailer of watches in 2017 and more recently expanding to pre-owned watches.Since joining as CEO,

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates recap highlights from Tiffany & Co.’s star-studded party to mark the reopening of the Fifth Avenue flagship store, where a once homey vibe has been replaced by a sleek temple to luxury. Rob shares an update from AGS Conclave along with insights about the trending topic of ChatGPT and its potential for the industry. Finally, the two compare notes on which events they’re most excited to check out at JCK Las Vegas.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes01:45: Tiffany’s Night to Remember12:53: Smart Ways to Harness A.I.21:35: All Eyes on JCK Las VegasEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow RecapA night to remember marks the dawn of a new era for Tiffany & Co.The fete for Tiffany & Co.’s reopened New York City flagship on April 27th was even flashier and splashier than expected, Victoria reports. Close to 1,200 guests turned up at the Landmark, while tourists thronged Fifth Avenue to catch a glimpse of A-listers like Blake Lively, Zoë Kravitz, and Mark Wahlberg on the red carpet.After more than three years in the works, the spectacular new flagship looks nothing like the Tiffany’s store of old, Victoria says. The Landmark is filled with light wood, glass, digital screens, custom artworks, a dramatic curvilinear staircase, and, of course, beautiful jewelry. Victoria’s first stop was the seventh floor, which houses gemstone masterpieces like Bird on a Rock broaches and the Patek Philippe salon. Nearly as awe-inspiring as the gems was the sheer amount of wealth of the guests in attendance, she says.The Fifth Avenue icon was long venerated as a democratic slice of Americana, Rob notes—a place where anyone could feel at home admiring the pieces on display. He wonders if the Landmark will be as welcoming. That depends on what kind of person you are, Victoria surmises. Sleek and grand, this indisputable temple to luxury may well intimidate certain shoppers. Then again, it’s bound to be a tourist attraction—and there are affordable items to be had, she notes. (The entry price for a silver Return to Tiffany bracelet is $250.) For those confident or curious enough to be undaunted by the glamor, Victoria says it’s well worth popping up to the seventh floor to admire the art, the odes to Tiffany windows, the digital Audrey Experience with a replica of Hepburn’s black Givenchy dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and original notes from the Truman Capote novella that inspired the film.Want more detail? Read Victoria’s full report (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/cocktails-at-tiffanys/) on the party.A.I. update: smart ways to harness artificial intelligenceNext, Rob shares highlights from the recent American Gem Society Conclave, where he found himself socializing without fear of COVID for the first time in several years.Despite warning signs like inflation and bank failures—and waning from the boom of 2020 and 2021—jewelry businesses are holding up well based on the buzz at Conclave, Rob says. Traceability and lab-grown diamonds were much discussed,

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) catch up with Lawrence Hess, executive director of The Plumb Club (https://plumbclub.com/), as the organization finalizes plans for JCK Las Vegas. Lawrence shares his memories of growing up the son of the late great designer Jose Hess and offers a succinct history of The Plumb Club. He also gives listeners a preview of the most intriguing—and encouraging—takeaways from the club’s latest research paper and consumer survey, to be shared at the upcoming JCK show.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com (http://institute.debeers.com/)Show Notes00:52: Tiffany & Co.’s Landmark Event03:44: Carrying on the Hess Family Legacy05:07: Remembering Jose Hess08:20: Striking Out on His Own11:08: What’s in a Name?14:42: A Brief History of The Plumb Club18:09: The Future Looks Bright20:31: Three Trends to Watch24:22: Lab Grown Diamonds in Simple Terms25:52: Aligning with RJCEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/); institute.debeers.com (http://institute.debeers.com/)Show RecapTiffany & Co.’s Landmark EventVictoria shares highlights (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/cocktails-at-tiffanys/) from the Tiffany & Co. extravaganza that marked the Fifth Avenue flagship store’s reopening as the Landmark in April. It wasn’t just the beautiful space and the star-studded guest list that impressed her, but also the obvious wealth of the clientele. One guest sported a Tiffany Blue Dial Limited Edition Patek Phillipe Nautilus watch, which sells for $3 million on the secondary market.Carrying on a Family LegacyVictoria and Rob welcome guest Lawrence Hess, executive director of The Plumb Club (https://plumbclub.com/). Victoria notes that the New York City–based group is one of the industry’s most esteemed organizations, boasting a membership of distinguished manufacturers. Calling in from his office in Englewood, NJ, Lawrence says he is gearing up for JCK Las Vegas, where 50 Plumb Club members will exhibit in the group’s 75,000-square-foot pavilion.Lawrence is the son of iconic jewelry designer Jose Hess (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/jose-hess-pioneer-has-died/). Victoria asks Lawrence to share his memories of being raised in the business, thanks not just to Jose but also to stepmom Magdalena “Maggie” Hess, a designer in her own right.Jose instilled a deep love of the industry and its people in his children. “The two most important things to him were family and jewelry,” says Lawrence, who tagged along to work with his dad when he didn’t have school. He recalls his dad’s years as president of The Plumb Club, when early plans for the pavilion covered their dining room table while Jose fine-tuned them.Rob notes that Jose was renowned for his catchphrases, most famously strong like a bull. “That was his answer to everything, whether things were good or bad,” Lawrence remembers. Many of the designer’s observations are memorialized in The Beauty in All, a book Jose and Maggie co-wrote.Striking Out on His OwnAnother Jose Hess motto was that nothing should be handed to you.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss the much-anticipated reopening of Tiffany & Co.’s iconic Fifth Avenue store, now called The Landmark. Victoria also reports on her recent trip to Geneva for Watches and Wonders, where traffic was brisk, the mood was upbeat, and Rolex wowed the crowds with unexpected splashes of color and whimsy. Rob updates listeners on what’s new at Signet Jewelers after attending a recent Investors’ Day at the New York Stock Exchange.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes00:49: Tiffany & Co. Reimagines its Famous Flagship05:30: Rob Heads to AGS Conclave to Gauge the State of the Industry07:10: Rolex Brightens a Busy Watches and Wonders Exhibition15:18: What’s New at Signet Jewelers Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.com Show Recap Tiffany Offers a Sneak Peek at its Reimagined FlagshipVictoria seldom flies across the country to attend a party, but she’s making an exception for the much-anticipated reopening of Tiffany & Co.’s Fifth Avenue flagship store on May 27th. After a three-year closure and a complete makeover, what will The Landmark—as it’s now called—look like? Rob remembers visiting the iconic store as a JCK mystery and being surprised to find it warmly welcoming. It was almost homey in those days, he says. Victoria predicts the new iteration will be decidedly sleeker and more luxe since the brand’s target demographic is now considerably more affluent. “There’s a parallel story about the importance of brick-and-mortar,” Victoria observes. When she interviewed Tiffany CEO Anthony Ledru recently, he called The Landmark “the heart and soul of Tiffany.” The company is putting a major focus on its physical stores, expanding and renovating flagships in Seoul, Sao Paolo, and other parts of the world, she adds. When the pandemic reached its zenith, it looked like the future might be entirely virtual and digital, but “that’s not the case at all,” Victoria says. “The importance of brick and mortar is more apparent than ever.” Rob to Moderate Conclave PanelVictoria’s not the only one with travel plans. In early May Rob will head to Louisville, Kentucky, for the American Gem Society’s Conclave event, where he’ll moderate an expert panel on how the industry is faring in 2023 and gauge the outlook for the future. Victoria is eager to hear his takeaways. She predicts JCK’s audience will be too. “It’s been a confusing year, with the lingering specter of recession,” she points out. “People are waiting for some guidance.” Rolex Brightens a Busy Watches and WondersThe conversation shifts to Victoria’s recent trip to Switzerland for Watches and Wonders in Geneva. This year’s bustling conference was a far cry from the quiet show of 2022,

You'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with two guests who are a married couple: Feriel Zerouki, Senior Vice President of Corporate Affairs at De Beers Group, and Mahiar Borhanjoo, CEO of UNI Diamonds.

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the 24 Karat Weekend, including the Gem Awards, updates about crime stats at the Jewelers’ Security Alliance lunch, and some news that broke at the Jewelers’ Vigilance Committee luncheon. This leads to a discussion of a potential increase in restrictions on Russian diamond imports and the complexities of this issue. Victoria asks Rob about his take on falling lab-grown diamond prices. She also shares some insights learned from a presentation about differences in lab-grown diamond quality and how those quality issues occur. Finally, the hosts touch on recent events with banks and their impact on the industry.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes01:45 24 Karat Weekend05:00 Updates on U.S. sanctions on Russian diamonds13:00 Lab-grown diamond prices15:00 Lab-grown diamond quality variance23:00 Silicon Valley BankEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow Recap24 Karat WeekendRob attended the 24 Karat Gem Awards, while Victoria sadly had to stay home. It was a beautiful event, which included a lovely tribute to Steven Kaiser. JCK writer Amy Elliott (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/amy-elliott/) was up for a media award. Victoria and Rob give a big shout out to Amy, who is a critical member of the JCK edit team and express their pride at her nomination. And they congratulate Michelle Graff, who won this year’s media award.Rob also attended the Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA) lunch, where it was reported that last year was the worst for crime that they have seen in a very long time. On the lighter side of things, Rob enjoyed Joe Piscopo’s performance at the 24 Karat Dinner (lots of Sinatra).At the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) luncheon, Jeffrey Fisher was presented the Stanley Schechter Award in a warm, emotional ceremony. The speaker at the luncheon was James O’Brien, U.S. sanctions coordinator. He made a bit of news in his speech. He gave an effective, folksy speech about the U.S. efforts to put sanctions on Russia. He’s now involved in one of the largest sanctions packages in U.S. history.Stricter Russian Diamond Sanctions on the Horizon The office of U.S. Sanctions wants to put further restrictions on Russian diamonds to close the “substantial transformations” loophole, which allows Russian diamonds that are cut and polished elsewhere to come into the U.S. While they may not eliminate the legal doctrine of substantial transformations, they may put further restrictions on Russian diamonds including requiring sellers to make a declaration that the diamonds they are are selling are not from Russia. This would be a big change in the market.In a brief interview following O’Brien’s speech, Rob asked what happens if people don’t have the proper information about Russian origin. O’Brien said that you can get into a lot of trouble if you aren’t honest with customs. There are still questions about many of the details, including what the size cut-off would be for these sanctions, and what type of proof would be required.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Tom No...

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about what was hot at the Tucson gem shows, and the insights Victoria gleaned as she followed several designers on their searches through the shows. Rob discusses some ongoing diamond supply news, including the ongoing negotiations between De Beers and Botswana, and the possibility of changes to sanctions on Russian diamonds. They also discuss Chat GPT, which people in the jewelry industry—including Rob himself—have started to experiment with.Show Notes02:25 Thoughts on Tucson gem shows12:35 Diamond market news20:40 Testing out Chat GPTEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometShow RecapGem Shows Shine Through Cloudy EconomyVictoria notes that those shows depend so much on how the fourth quarter went for retailers: if the holiday went well, and if they needed to restock for their upcoming collections. Many current economic uncertainties also affected this: Everything from the specter of recession, to inflation, to the war in Ukraine. Despite all the looming questions, Victoria reported that Tucson was a great set of shows.At the high end, despite price increase of 20-30% across the board, demand was still very steady. Victoria spoke with many people who reported having record shows. Dealers explained this was, in part, a reflection of gems’ longtime reputation as a reliable way to store wealth. During times of economic uncertainty, the wealthy may opt to buy gems as a hedge against inflation. And when the economy is booming, people are in good moods, and the up goes the demand for colorful jewels—but for a very different reason. So, there are diverse economic circumstances when gems can fare very well.What Designers Looked ForVictoria observed that there were many of designers at the show this year. Teams from many of the French houses (Louis Vuitton, Boucheron, Tiffany & Co., and Cartier, to name a few) and countless independent designers, including Stephen Webster, Lauren Harwell Godfrey, Lauren Kessler, Katherine Jetter, and Robert Turner, whom Victoria roamed some of the shows with. And they were all looking for different things.Stephen Webster was a unique designer to follow, since he was equally invested in finding rough stones. She describes the different shows they attended to find these. She describes him spraying a rough Peruvian pink opal with water to get a sense of the color. Because you can’t see into these stones, all you have to go off of is the outside. It’s only after cutting into the stone that you know what you’re working with. Victoria quotes Stephen’s colorful way of describing that process: “Sometimes you get what we call ‘angel’s skin’ and other times you get ‘angel’s toenail.’”Most designers start with the stones and build their collections around that. And everyone had their own unique things they were drawn to. Robert Turner loves zircons, tsavorite, and stones in brilliant colors. Katherine Jetter is an opal specialist, so she was looking for those along with Mahenge spinels, which come in very vibrant hot pinks, and were very popular with many designers. Victoria enjoyed being a fly on the wall following these designers on their treasure hunts.Victoria spoke to Dave Bindra, who—when interviewed in an 

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Malyia McNaughton, founder of Made by Malyia. The self-taught jewelry designer and Black in Jewelry Coalition board member is proof that trusting your gut can be the key to creative success. When Malyia couldn’t find the jewelry she wanted, she designed her own—and wore it. Demand for her designs inspired her to launch her brand and has made her a rising star whose looks have been worn by Lizzo and other celebrities.Sponsored by De Beers: diamondeducation.debeers.com (http://diamondeducation.debeers.com)Show Notes1:53 From body chain to brand launch5:09 Expanding organically8:04 Turning obstacles into opportunities10:53 Finding creative inspiration13:57 High-profile partnerships17:58 In the spotlight on SNL20:51 The Black in Jewelry Coalition: making a difference23:52 Tips for aspiring designersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (jckonline.com); @jckmagazine (instagram.com/jckmagazine); madebymalyia.com (https://madebymalyia.com/); diamondeducation.debeers.com (http://diamondeducation.debeers.com) [Use promo code JCKPRO_15 at checkout for 15% off workshops.]Show RecapFrom body chain to brand launchVictoria introduces Brooklyn-based designer Malyia McNaughton, founder of Made by Malyia, and asks how she started creating jewelry. The daughter of Jamaican immigrants was born in the Bronx, raised in Florida, and attended Florida State University, where she studied fashion merchandising and product development. After graduating, she moved back to New York to pursue a career in fashion, starting in sales and product development for Nicole Miller and eventually designing for another fashion brand.In 2014, Malyia had tickets to a music festival in Philadelphia. She wanted to make a statement by wearing a body chain but couldn’t find the right piece. Undeterred, she sourced materials and designed her own. Little did she dream she was making her first item of jewelry. “I got stopped by so many people asking me where I’d gotten it,” Malyia recalls. “After the fifth or sixth person, my friends said, ‘You might be onto something.’ We went to lunch, and they helped me come up with the name Made by Malyia.’ It was one of those Oprah aha moments.”Expanding organicallyAfter months of trial and error, Malyia developed a body chain she felt was ready to put on Etsy. To her delight, orders poured in. Still, she viewed Made by Malyia as a creative outlet, not a business. Gradually she added products based on buyers’ feedback. When a client asked if she could make a temporary nose ring, Malyia branched into nonpermanent nose and body jewelry.

Join JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates for a roundup of buzzworthy industry updates. Victoria reports on the recent VicenzaOro fair, where the halls were crowded, the mood upbeat, and the looks big and bold. She updates listeners on a rare timepiece collection from the archives of Jaeger-LeCoultre. It’s the first significant effort by a Swiss watchmaker to sell vintage pieces and may herald a burgeoning trend. Rob analyzes what Israeli equipment maker Sarine’s purchase of the family-owned lab GCAL means for the future of diamond grading—and artificial intelligence’s growing role in it. Finally, the two discuss the Federal Trade Commission’s proposed ban on noncompete clauses.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes2:22 A lively January VicenzaOro fair7:21 Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils first vintage watch collection12:22 What Sarine’s purchase of GCAL means for the future of diamond grading18:09 The FTC’s move to ban noncompete clausesEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow RecapViva VicenzaOroJust back from Italy’s January VicenzaOro goldsmith and jewelry fair, Victoria says she was delighted to find the show packed and the mood optimistic. She had expected inflation, the war in Ukraine, and fear of recession to trigger cautiousness and a comedown from the boom the industry has enjoyed since the pandemic started. However, this was the best-attended VicenzaOro ever in terms of both exhibitors and attendees. Victoria spent most of her time in the crowded hall where Roberto Coin, Damiani, Fope, and other luxury brands that export to the United States were exhibiting. Also bustling was the adjacent T.Gold show, featuring jewelry machinery and technology for everything from engraving to laser welding.Victoria is still amassing information on the show’s top sellers, but one trend is certain: Big, bold pieces are replacing the small, delicate ones favored during quarantine. Understated jewelry suited people well when they were working from home, she says, but now subtle looks (such as stacking multiple delicate bracelets on the wrist) are making way for powerful statement pieces—especially cuffs and collar necklaces.Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils Vintage CollectionVictoria’s recent European trip included a visit to Geneva to learn about Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first-ever vintage watch collection. She explains that the Swiss company is known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker. The brand has made all of its timepieces in its own workshops in the Vallée de Joux since its foundation in 1833, and Jaeger-LeCoultre calibers and movements have powered many other brands’ watches over the years. Now Jaeger-LeCoultre has mined its own rich history to create The Collectibles,