Chalk Talk | A Climbing Industry Podcast show

Chalk Talk | A Climbing Industry Podcast

Summary: Chalk Talk is a Climbing Industry podcast. A place to find interesting and enlightening discussions with professionals in the rock climbing industry. In depth conversations with route setters, coaches, professional climbers, gym managers/owners and much more. Chalk Talk is the place to find inspiration and contemplation on the future of the climbing world and where to take your climbing to the next level.

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  • Artist: John Blomquist | Rock Climber, Route Setter, Climbing Industry Expert
  • Copyright: Mantle Press Media

Podcasts:

 Ep. 67 w/ “The Climbing Doctor” Dr. Jared Vagy, DPT. | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 1:08:39

On potential injuries based on poor technique; Dirtbag Tips for injury prevention; and his upcoming book, “Climb Injury-Free”…. **This episode is sponsored by Klimbz.com, a route management and gym member engagment platform that enables head routesetters and gym owners to manage setters, control route inventory, engage with gym members, run leauges, organize  paperless comps, and more. Email info@Klimbz.com for more info! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with The Climbing Doctor: * Intro into how Jared got into physical therapy and began applying that to climbing (1:20) * What, if any, research Jared found to begin studying climbing injury prevention (5:53) * Where climbing stand compared to other sports in research and application of sports medicine (9:35) * How poor technique in climbers is resulting in injury (16:37) * Explanation of energy systems and how it relates to climbing (21:24) * Injury Prevention while training (26:33)  * Fingers! Anatomy, injuries, Strength tests, and Power Fingers (40:35) * How to analyze you own body positions for proper technique (50:48) * Shoulders!  (55:12) * How to find a good PT who understands climbing injuries near you (1:01:21) Related Links for The Climbing Doctor: * The Climbing Doctor’s Website | www.TheClimbingDoctor.com * For “Climb Injury-Free” book purchase in the USA | Click here! * Klimbz.com, a route management platform for the gyms of the future | www.Klimbz.com  *[sponsored]* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for The Climbing Doctor: * Ep.65 w/ Kyle McFarland of White Pine Athletics * Ep.59 w/ Zack DiChristino | Understanding Climbing in Sports Medicine * Ep.50 w/ Ander Rockstad “Building a Better Machine” * Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery” * Ep.37 w/ Kris Odub Hampton of Power Company Climbing * Ep.23 – Dr. Lisa Erikson “Climbing Injuries Solved” * Ep.10 – Ander Rockstad “In a Nutshell” Videos featuring The Climbing Doctor: Photo Gallery ofThe Climbing Doctor:                     **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for 

 Ep.66 w/ John “Verm” Sherman on “Old Man Lightning” | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 1:14:15

On his forthcoming film Old Man Lightning, photographing the critically endangered California Condors, and training his broken body to re-send Midnight Lightning 25 years later….. **This episode is sponsored by Klimbz.com, a route management and gym member engagment platform that enables head routesetters and gym owners to manage setters, control route inventory, engage with gym members, run leauges, organize  paperless comps, and more. Email info@Klimbz.com for more info! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with John Sherman: * The motivation behind trying to re-send the Yosemite classic, Midnight Lightning, 25 years after sending (3:42) * Photography and bouldering (8:34) * Why bouldering, and the influence of John Gill (11:25) * Thoughts on the rise of gym climbing (15:44) * Creating the V-grade system for bouldering and it’s effects on the climbing community (John’s favorite topic to cover *cue sarcastic eye roll*)  (19:27) * On old age, training for Midnight Lightning, and understanding pain tolerance (22:51) * How working with a personal trainer has fixed decades of ailments and the importance of ‘prehab’ (27:58) * On the decision to document the journey to re-send Midnight Lightning on film in the forthcoming movie ‘Old Man Lightning’ (32:52) * How this film won’t be like most climbing films *hint: there may be adult diapers involved* (34:59) * On trying not too take himself so seriously and the grandiose egos of climbers (36:45) * After all of the training and work, how close is he to re-sending Midnight Lightning (37:49) * Why failure is not an option for John Sherman (43:16) * Why John took up the effort to photograph the entire critically endangered wild California Condor population (46:30) * Follow-up call with John about his shoulder injury (1:04:08) Related Links for John Sherman: * Old Man Lightning’s Website | www.oldmanlightning.com * John Sherman’s Photography | www.vermphoto.com * Very Photo’s Instagram | www.instagram.com * Paragon Athletics | www.paragonathletics.com * Donate to help save the wild California Condors | www.peregrinefund.org * Klimbz.com, a route management platform for the gyms of the future | www.Klimbz.com  *[sponsored]* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for John Sherman: * Ep.65 w/ Kyle McFarland of White Pine Athletics * Ep.64 w/ Paul Robinson “Uncharted Lines” * Ep.49 w/ Kevin Jorgeson “Driven By A Question” Photos Gallery for John Sherman: Videos featuring John Sherman:

 Ep. 65 w/ Kyle McFarland of White Pine Athletics Ep.65 w/ Kyle McFarland of White Pine Athletics | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 1:07:39

On why he started the company, what climbers are doing wrong, and the future of climbing training…. **As a special offer to the listeners of this podcast, White Pine Athletics is offering $25 off any of their training plans by entering the discount code “chalktalk” at checkout. Visit their website at www.whitepineathletics.com **This episode is sponsored by Klimbz.com, a route management and gym member engagment platform that enables head routesetters and gym owners to manage setters, control route inventory, engage with gym members, run leauges, organize  paperless comps, and more. Email info@Klimbz.com for more info!   Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Kyle McFarland began White Pine Athletics out of frustration in the templative way that trainers were approaching their athletes. He believes that everyone is unique and his training plans need to reflect that in the way he approaches his clients. Kyle grew up climbing and competing in youth competitions. As he began to age out of the youth competitions, he took on coaching and routesetting. As his passion for helping athletes succeed grew, Kyle decided to persue it further. He studied kinesiology and became an American College of Sports Medicine certified personal trainer as well as a level 3 cycling coach. The philosophy of White Pine Athletics is to focus on each individual as a completely different case than the last with differing needs, goals, recovery times, and strengths. His unique approach to climbing training offers a fresh, indepth, and clinical look into what’s missing in the realm of climbing training, and hopefully what we can do to move the sport and it’s athletes forward. Show Notes for episode with Kyle McFarland: * Kyle’s origin story (2:51) * How climbing coaching and training has changed since he was a youth competitor (6:34) * How youth coaching and bad workout templates led Kyle starting White Pine Athletics (8:50) * The philosophy behind White Pine Athletics (14:00) * How the remote training works (16:45) * What’s wrong with training templates (18:22) * How important it is to find a trainer/coach who actually knows what they’re talking about (21:53) * What is changing in regards to climbing training (23:47) * Why training for climbing is different than other sports (27:38) * The methods and training programs that White Pine uses to improve their athletes (29:36) * Mobility exercises for climbers and their importance (34:54) * Why climbers are so afraid of weight lifting and strength training (39:54) * If lifting weights really affects strength to weight ratios (41:46) * What climbers are doing wrong when they train (45:07) * The dangers and benefits of using the campus board (48:10) * How nutrition factors into their programs at White Pine and in training in general (54:36) * Eating disorders in climbing and how the conversation is hopefully changing (57:39) * What the future may hold for climbing and climbing training (59:57) * The holes in our understanding of training for rock climbing (1:02:25) Related Links for White Pine Athletics: * White Pine Athletic’s Website | www.WhitePineAthletics.com * Social media pages for White Pine Athletics | 

 Ep.64 w/ Paul Robinson “Uncharted Lines” | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 1:34:41

Paul Robinson on his recent film, “Uncharted Lines.” Where he talks about his search for untapped boulders around the world… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Paul Robinson: * The motivation behind the Uncharted Lines project and wanting to showcase boulder development (2:53) * Looking past the numbers: how boulder development is climbing at it’s roots (10:00) * Why the bouldering in Australia didn’t make it into the movie (13:38) * “Not every journey you go on is going to be a success” and why the attempts to develop an new zone in Russia failed (16:01) * With new areas looming in other countries, the crew decides to visit an area in Tennessee proving that here are always new boulders just around the bend (17:39) * Making first ascents on untouched, Joe’s Valley-style rock in Alcaniz, Spain (18:57) * Going rural in Zimbabwe on a hunt for new stones, and they found a-plenty…..then we get lost in beta and rock quality…. (21:42) * …And then we actually talk about his experience in Zimbabwe (27:25) * Bringing it all back home to Colorado and Wyoming to prove that you don’t need to visit the farthest reaches of the globe to be a part of developing new areas (33:09) * Thoughts on the dedication it takes to put together a film of this caliber (41:14) * Financing all of the travel and the film (43:24) * Philosophy of the first ascent, developing, and what it takes to find a five-star line (46:29) * Finding balance between developing and climbing established lines, traveling to new zones and leaving old projects behind (54:08) * How Paul goes about finding new zones around the world with his sights set on developing an area on each continent (57:55) * An extremely long and in depth discussion about defining bouldering grades and the climbing abilities of today’s top-tiered climbers (1:01:54) * Thoughts on Nalle Hukkataival’s proposed V17, “Burden of Dreams” aka “The Lappnor Project”  (1:21:31) Related Links: *  Paul’s website | www.paulrobinsonclimbs.com * The “Uncharted Lines” video on Vimeo | www.Vimeo.com * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Dr. Lisa Erikson, of “Climbing Injuries Solved” | www.ClimbingInjuriesSolved.com            *[sponsored]* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.

 Ep. 63 w/ Jason Kehl | Cryptochild to Climbing Wall Creation | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 45:03

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, Climbing Injuries Solved, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for Episode with Jason Kehl: * Settling into his new home in El Paso, Tx just 30 mins from Hueco Tanks bouldering (2:36) * What inspires his search first ascents (4:47) * Training and preparing for unsent FA’s that are just out of reach (9:52) * “Does a send happen if no one is around to post about it?” and other thoughts on social media (11:44) * Crafting wall design through setting and hold shaping (15:10) * Design Elements of Crystal City’s Earth Treks Gym and trying to do something new (18:42) * Balancing form and function in gym wall design (21:44) * Trashing traditional granite and sandstone when shaping holds, “what else can we do?” (24:03) * The shaping of “The Pipes”  (25:47) * Deciding what to shape when innovation is important to creation  (29:43) * When he started creating art and how it has guided him through life as a climber (37:05) Related Links for Jason Kehl: * Jason Kehl’s website | www.cryptochild.com * Jason’s Facebook and Instagram pages * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Climbing Injuries Solved | www.ClimbingInjuriesSolved.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for free shipping)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Videos featuring Jason Kehl: Photo Gallery of Jason Kehl: **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on iTunes! click on us!!!

 Ep.62 w/ Eddie Fowke | The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 1:32:19

On photographing for the IFSC competitions, living life on the road for over a year, and, of course, the future of climbing in the Olympics…. **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Eddie Fowke is the official photographer for the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the Editor in Chief of The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine. Eddie photographs the world’s strongest climbers at international competitions and world-class climbing areas. He is in constant movement around the globe since there is always another stop on the IFSC World Cup Circuit, another pro competition, or what short vacations he can squeeze out between jobs. Due to the constant work, Eddie hasn’t had a permanent place of residence in over a year and a half. His blog and magazine, The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine, can be found online in the new digital format at www.TheCircuitClimbing.com. Eddie also publishes an annual print version that features some of the best photos and articles he gathers throughout the previous year. Show Notes for episode with Eddie Fowke: * Accidentally photographing IFSC Collegiate World Championships (3:26) * Creating and fostering good relationships with athletes and coaches while on the road and how that plays into his philosophies on photography (5:23) * How Eddie began shooting photos for climbing competitions which led him to create The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine (10:55) * Jumping on board with his friend, and world cup climber, James Kassay to take photos at some IFSC events in Europe for the first time and how he managed to make it happen (17:45) * How climbers like Mina Marcovic and the stories he discovered about the Slovenian Team helped him decide to start The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine (19:15) * How Eddie taught himself to write, edit, produce, print, sell, and distribute a magazine by himself… and the inspiration for learning all this is not what you think (23:35) * What finally convinced him to quit his job and pursue The Circuit full-time, and dealing with the words of caution and criticism from his friends and family (27:48) * Dealing with the highs and lows of starting his magazine, and when it gets low, “it gets brutally low” (30:18) * The battle for advertising in the climbing industry between print and digital media (33:42) * The success of the first issue of The Circuit and progression moving forward (38:52) * Why it’s important to secure the legacy and history of these athletes and events  (45:31) * The new re-design of The Circuit’s website and what more it can bring to climbing media (47:06) * A rollercoaster he can’t get off (54:07) * The climbing industry funding social media climbers instead of the best athletes (56:40) * Aging climbers and up-and-coming young guns, who deserves to get paid (59:58) * What private or nationally-backed systems are working to lift up and support athletes around the world? (1:04:53) * How the climbing industry should solve the issues of athlete sponsorship and support (1:06:04) * The much debated Olympics question… (1:11:57)

 New Year’s Episode w/ Rocklands Special | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 15:03

 I thought I’d try something new, considering it’s a new year. So, here is a narrative episode about working with a non-profit climbing team in The Rocklands, South Africa…. **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! First off, I want to wish everyone a very happy new year. This has been an excellent year for Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast and it is all because of you guys, our listeners! We have reached record downloads, gotten in contact with great new guests, and now, we’re venturing into creating narrative-style podcast episodes. So, I hope you all like it. Please let us know by emailing the podcast at Mail@CTclimbingpodcast.com or visit us on our Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram pages. This year I decided I wanted to try something new with the podcast. This episode is a narrative-style podcast, similar to what you would find on NPR with shows like This American Life, RadioLab, Serial, or TED Radio Hour. This episode specifically was produced for a class I took this semester on Radio News Production. Therefore, there were some requirements for the episode that I would change in future episodes, but you get the point. Either way, I hope you like it. I’d like to do more of these shows in the future for competitions, events like Outdoor Retailers, or mini-series specials. Let me know what you think! Related Links for Rocklands Special Episode: * If you are visiting South Africa and would like to help the young climbers of the non-profit team, The Rockland Rangers, please contact JP DuPlessis  via Facebook * Also, if you would like to know how you can help out with the Elizabethfontein Primary School’s climbing program contact: elizabethfonteinps@gmail.com * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Rocklands Spec gal Episode: * Ep. 31 w/ JP DuPlessis “Children of the Rocklands” * Ep.60 w/ Dan Beall “Dinner with Dan in the Rocklands” Videos featuring Cultural Night at Elizabethfontein in the Rocklands: Photo from the Rocklands: **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for 

 Ep. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder Champ | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 46:58

On being a third generation rock climber, Switzerland’s sports-based school system, and winning the 2016 IFSC boulder world cup… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Summary Petra Klingler is a 24-year-old climber from Bonstetten, Switzerland. She began climbing as a child; influenced by her parents and grandparents who would take turns watching her and her brother while the others would embark on multi-pitches and alpine climbs. She has since grown to be one of the best female climbers in Europe. This year (2016), Petra secured a 1st place podium spot at the IFSC Bouldering Championships in Paris, France over Miho Nonaka (JPN) and the 2015 boulder world cup overall winner, Akiyo Noguchi (JPN). Show Notes for episode with Petra Klingler: * Life after her goal of winning the IFSC Paris Championships (4:58) * Her thoughts on the route setting at the Paris Championships (5:51) * How she was able to work on her weaknesses and succeed this season (8:18) * Her familial roots in climbing and how she got started (10:13) * Her first IFSC World Cup experience (15:19) * After competing for most of her life, how does she keep up the motivation (17:32) * Where and how Petra trains for the IFSC World Cups (17:50) * Where her motivations are for training inside and climbing outside (24:26) * How it felt to achieve her goal of winning the Paris Championships (26:03) * The flood of emotions she experienced after completing the final climb, and whether or not she knew she had won (28:13) * Her studies in Sports and Economics and what she plans to do with her degree (32:48) * How Switzerland’s school system is set up to support young athletes (34:06) * Whether or not she will be pursuing a spot on the Olympic team in 2020 (38:04) * Interviews and opportunities she has had since winning in Paris (40:03) * What the next 6 months hold for Petra (41:55) * Competing in ice climbing competitions (42:47) Related Links for Petra Klingler: * Petra Klingler’s website | www.petraklingler.ch * Petra’s IFSC athlete page | www.ifsc-climbing.org * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Petra Klingler: * Ep.58 w/ Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane * Ep.53 w/ Sean McColl, The Canadian Powerhouse *

 Ep.60 w/ Dan Beall “Dinner with Dan in the Rocklands” | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 48:02

On playing the social media/sponsor game, his motivations, and climbing in the Rocklands… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Dan Beall: * Dan’s origin story with climbing (3:22) * What drew him to Bishop, a place where he’s built his reputation (8:46) * Realities of wooing sponsors, social media, and trying to remain genuine (12:12) * The return on investment for companies sponsoring athletes (19:00) * Rocklands (24:49) * Managing injuries and trying to keep forward progression (26:42) * With so much climbing in the states, why spend the money to travel to Africa (28:38) * The goals Dan set for himself heading out to the Rocklands (31:13) * This season’s tick list, “one unique double-digit climb per day in Africa (33:48) * What he didn’t expect (36:20) * Dan’s near-future efforts, dreams, and ambitions (hint: finishing up ‘The Process’ (V16) is one of them) (44:12) Related Links for Dan Beall: * Dan Beall’s Social Media | Facebook, Instagram, Twitter * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Dan Beall: * Ep.53 w/ Sean McColl, The Canadian Powerhouse * Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery” * Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete” * Ep.25 w/ Paul Robinson “Making the Canvas Climbable” Photo Gallery of Dan Beall: (photos by Andy Wickstrom) **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes! click on us!!!

 Ep.59 w/ Zack DiChristino | Understanding Climbing in Sports Medicine | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 56:34

On injuries and recovery, Alex Puccio’s quick return from knee surgery, and why it’s important to find a doctor who understands climbing… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Zack DiChristino: * How important is a PT or physio for athletes who are training or competing in something like the World Cup Series * Is it important for a doctor or PT to have a knowledge of climbing to properly assess an injury * Was Alex Puccio’s speedy recovery a case of proper care and rehab, or is she a superhero * Finger injuries and the fact and fiction of recovery techniques * How an injury prevention program helped female soccer players avoid ACL tears * Shoulder injuries: why they happen and how to avoid them * Improving your posture and getting rid of the climber’s hunchback * How to approach getting back to climbing and training after an injury * Is improper training to blame for your injury, or were you just not ready to be training? * Why it’s important to find a PT who understands climbing Related Links for Zack DiChristino: * Howard Head Sports Medicine * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Zack DiChristino: * Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery” * Ep.23 – Dr. Lisa Erikson “Climbing Injuries Solved” * World Cup Roundup 2015 Vail, Colorado * World Cup Roundup 2016 Vail, Colorado Videos featuring Zack DiChristino: **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes! click on us!!!

 2016 World Cup Roundup | Vail, USA | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 56:24

On Shauna’s amazing weekend, Jongwon’s exciting adventures, and who’s going to take the overall titles in Paris… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode on 2016 World Cup: * Hanging out and climbing with the athletes before the comp at The Spot Climbing Gym’s Annual Pancake Feed * The coordination of the Japanese team * A bit of history of climbing’s involvement in the Vail Mountain Games * The pairing of problems from different qualification groups * How splitting the qualification groups helps and hinders * The return of Alex Puccio one year after her knee injury * The incredible sports action of men’s final 3 * Shauna’s big day; placing 2nd, clinching the overall, and being awarded an MBE from the Queen of England * Jongwon Chon’s adventures in Colorado; he climbs Veritas (V11), sends Jade (V14) on 3rd try, and then took a serious digger and needed some stitches * Who’s in the running for Men’s Overall * What we can expect from these athletes given that the next IFSC Bouldering World Cup isn’t until August 12-13th * And ramble, ramble, ramble….. Related Links for 2016 World Cup: * International Federation of Sport Climbing | www.IFSC-climbing.org * The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine | www.TheCircuitClimbing.com * World Cup Coverage | www.OnBouldering.com * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for 2016 World Cup: * World Cup Roundup episodes for Toronto, Vail, Haiyang, Chongqing, Munich * Ep.58 w/ Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane * Ep. 57 w/ Sierra Blair-Coyle “Making Waves” * Ep.53 w/ Sean McColl,

 Ep.58 w/ Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 31:56

Shauna and Leah on this season’s IFSC World Cup, Acro Yoga, and having fun wherever they go… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Shauna and Leah: How they celebrated Leah’s birthday on the road Trying to find time to play amidst a busy World Cup season Making the travel fun What’s behind Shauna’s success and the feeling of being injury free What happened in India that caused Shauna to miss finals How Leah went from being constantly at 21st to making semis every comp this season A competitor’s view on the competition in Kazo, Japan Why they’ve been incorporating Acro Yoga into their training What their warm-up looks like behind the walls in isolation before a competition Related Links for Shauna and Leah: * The Facebook pages for Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane * The Instagrams of Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane * Women’s Climbing Symposium | www.womensclimbingsymposium.com  * International Federation of Sport Climbing’s website | www.ifsc-climbing.com * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Shauna and Leah: * Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete” * World Cup Roundups: Kazo, Japan and Meiringen, Switzerland * Ep. 57 w/ Sierra Blair-Coyle “Making Waves” * Ep.53 w/ Sean McColl, The Canadian Powerhouse * Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery” Videos featuring Shauna and Leah: Photo Gallery of Shauna and Leah: **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for 

 Ep. 57 w/ Sierra Blair-Coyle “Making Waves” | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 33:32

Sierra Blair-Coyle on how the IFSC World Cup season is going, how she inspires climbers and companies through social media, and how she manages to avoid negativity in her public life **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Sierra Blair-Coyle: * World Cup travel and tribulations * How the IFSC season has been going for her * Analyzing mistakes she’s made in this season’s World Cup and how she is working on them * Training with Slovenian team coach, Roman Krajnik * Her home wall and training set up * Seeking sponsors and letting them find you * Filming the LG commercial that had her climbing a skyscraper with a vacuum * Rising tides raise all ships * How she deals with negativity from haters on the internet * How she promotes herself with social media * How training with a coach has helped her to improve more than she could on her own * On Andrew Bisharat’s article “Athlete or Model: What is Sierra Blair-Coyle?” Related Links for Sierra Blair-Coyle: * Sierra’s website | www.sierrabc.com * Sierra’s social media| Facebook, Instagram, Twitter * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Sierra’s sponsors | Sanuk, Falken Tire, Climb X Gear, BlueWater Ropes, Asana Climbing, The Law of Devin W. Quackenbush, Quotable Cards, and Cell Med Clinics Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes: * 2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen and Kazo, Japan * Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery” * Ep.42 w/ Kati Hetrick “Finding That Niche” * Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete” Photo Gallery: **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes! click on us!!!

 2016 World Cup Roundup: in which Udo Neuman educates John and Jackie | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 1:32:29

On the 2016 World Cup Season, economic structures of climbing around the globe, and why a love for traveling is a good tool to have during the IFSC season **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Udo Neumann: * The trials and tribulations of attending a competition in Navi Mumbai, India * What makes a good world cup, and what makes a bad one: from India, to Japan, to Baku, to Munich * Some of the downsides of the Kazo, Japan competition * Chinese hospitality at the competitions for athletes and coaches, and the great internet firewall that the media has to contend with * Russian strength and aversion to sickness * How the economic differences for gyms and climbing teams and how they differ between Europe, Japan, and the United States * Where the United States is lacking on the international stage * Why US support of athletes from brands and sponsors seems to be behind the rest of the world * How German youth climbing teams can charge as little as $50/month for their programs * The richness of experience in traveling and competing throughout the entire World Cup Circuit * Why the routesetting factor matters; aka: knowing your routesetters, knowing their styles, and knowing their mindsets * Who the World Cup routesetters are, and what they are known for * How hold, and what companies the setters are using, matter * What is a more important strength in these competitions, old school crimp strength, or new school dynamics Related Links for Udo Neumann: * International Federation of Sport Climbing website | www.ifsc-climbing.com * Udo Neumann website | www.udini.com * Udo Neumann Facebook | www.facebook.com * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* * Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Udo Neumann: * 2016 World Cup Roundups: Meiringen, Switzerland and Kazo, Japan * Ep.53 w/ Sean McColl, The Canadian Powerhouse * Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery” * Ep.36 w/ Heiko Wilhelm “Beyond the Face” * Ep.

 Ep.56 w/ Tyson Schoene | Listener Response | File Type: audio/mpeg | Duration: 59:56

This listener response episode was recorded using follow-up questions from Chalk Talk listeners after hearing my interview with Tyson from Episode 51. Enjoy! **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Related Links for Tyson Schoene: * Vertical World Climbing | www.VerticalWorld.com * Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* * Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Tyson Schoene: * Ep.51 w/ Tyson Schoene “Made in a Vertical World” **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes! click on us!!!

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