Your New Puppy: Dog Training and Dog Behavior Lessons to Help You Turn Your New Puppy into a Well-Behaved Dog

Every dog needs a collar and leash.  There are many options out there so let's talk about them.Each of these tools has it's advantages and disadvantages and there's no one perfect solution that works for every dog.In part one I talked about the different types of leashes.   In this episode (part two) I talk about the most common types of collars and harnesses that are available.I also share my recommendations and which ones I think you should avoid.  By the end you'll have a better idea of what will work for you and your dog. Here are the different types of collars and harnesses I talk about:Flat Collar:This is the most common type of collar.  It usually holds some kind of identification.  You may or may not use this one for walks as well as everyday use.There is a slightly different version that has similar uses which I talk about next. I recommend the flat collars that have a quick release (which is the type of clip you see in the picture).  Most flat collars have this type of clip.  What I don't want you to use the type collar where you have to loosen and tighten the collar to get it on and off.  There are many ways for these collars to get caught up and you want to be able to get them off quickly. Martingale Collar:This collar is very similar to the flat collar.  The difference is that there is an extra piece that when a leash is attached and they pull the collar pinches together to make it just small enough so they can't pull out of the collar.  It's NOT a choke collar (in fact if it chokes your dog then it's too tight).  It's made for safety reasons so your dog can't pull back and out leaving you standing there with a leash and collar and no dog!  This is the everyday collar I recommend.As with a flat collar, you may or may not use this for walks and I recommend using one with the quick release clip. Harness:Harnesses are also very recognizable.  I favor this tool for everyday walking.  For some dogs a harness can encourage pulling and you loose a little control compared to a neck collar.  That being said, I've seen enough neck injuries to still recommend a harness over a neck collar for walks.  If you have a heavy puller there are some separate tools for that.  So let's talk about them... Head Collar or Gentle Lead:This tool is specifically designed to help with leash pulling.  When your dog pulls forward the collar pulls their head around taking away their leverage.  It's very effective.  The biggest drawback is dogs hate it.  They don't like the strap that sits around their nose.  Some dogs will get used to it but for the most part they tend to reject it.   Front Clip Harness:This is the tool I recommend for leash pullers.  Essentially it's a regular harness with a clip in the front as well as the back.  You don't need the double leash like in the picture but some do come designed that way.It works in a similar way to the head collar.  When your dog starts to pull forward they get turned around and lose their leverage.  It's very important to get the fit right for these, otherwise it's just the harness that spins around, not the dog. What I don't recommend:E-collar, pinch collar, choke collar.Each of these tools are designed to make your dog uncomfortable to stop a behavior.  In my experience these cause more behavior problems than they fix. Those are the tools I talk about in part two.  Head over to Episode #75 for part one where I talk about the different types of leashes. In this episode I talk about:* The most common types of collars and harnesses.* Which tools I recommend and why.* My recommendations for young puppies.

Every dog needs a collar and leash.  There are many options out there so let's talk about them.Each option has it's advantages and disadvantages and there's no one perfect solution that works for every dog.So in this episode (part one) I talk about the most common types of leashes that are available. In part two I talk about the different types of collars and harnesses.   I also share my recommendations (which may or may not be right for you) and which ones I think you should avoid.  By the end you'll have a better idea of what will work for you and your dog. Here are the different types of leashes I talk about:Standard Leash:The standard leash is the most common type of leash and the one I recommend for everyday use.  The material can vary but that is your personal preference.  I do recommend a light weight material and clip for puppies.Long Line:The long line is the other type of leash that I recommend.  It's not an every day leash but it has lots of training uses.  Anytime you want to give your dog more freedom but still have the control of a leash to keep them safe.  For example, your back yard (even if it's fenced in for a young puppy) or a park when you want to play a game of fetch.  I find 30 feet is long enough to give your dog some freedom but not too long where the leash is hard to handle. Slip Lead:I used to use a slip lead to teach loose leash walking.  I don't anymore because they need to be used correctly to be safe and effective.  It's very easy to use them incorrectly and then they become a choke collar which is dangerous and ineffective. I now use other loose leash walking tools that are easier to learn and are still effective.  I'll talk about them in part two.Retractable Leash (a.k.a. Flexi Leash): I do NOT recommend a retractable leash.  They are one of those tools that seems like a good idea but in practice they are not.  In fact, I have an entire episode about it.  YNP #011: Reasons to Leave Your Retractable Leash at HomeThose are the tools I talk about in part one.  Stay tuned for part two where I talk about the different collars and harnesses that are out there. In this episode I talk about:* The different types of leashes.* Which leashes I recommend and why.* My recommendations for young puppies.* Which leash I don't recommend and why.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #011: Reasons to Leave Your Retractable Leash at HomePlaytime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Socialization is the most important training you can do for your Puppy.  We want to get our puppy out from the very beginning and do as much as we can in their early weeks.Socialization is more than just exposing your dog to new people and dogs.  It also includes new places, objects, sounds, textures, environments, and other animals.    When we think of it this way there are lots of things we can do everyday at home (in addition to the outside world).  So the next time you are looking to entertain your puppy between naps while getting some super important training in, try one of these activities!Bonus: Socialization tires a puppy out! In this episode I talk about:* A quick review on what it means to socialize your puppy.* Why socialization is so important.* 5 ways to socialize your puppy without leaving your home.* Lot of examples and ideas to keep you and your puppy busy for a long time.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #021: Balancing Vaccines and SocializationYNP #063: My 7 Guidelines to Socializing Your PuppyPlaytime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Christine Rohloff Gossinger literally wrote the book on dog breeds.  She joins me to talk about how understanding your dog's breed can help us understand our dogs and their needs.  This episode is chock full of examples, training tips, and fun tidbits just like her book. Listen in and decide for yourself it your dog's breed matters.In this episode Christine talks about:* Her journey to becoming a trainer.* How understanding what your dog was bred for can help us understand our dog's needs.* How we can adjust training and enrichment for our specific dog.* Each of the different breed groups with examples of what those dogs need.* How each dog is an individual with their own needs and understanding them can help us improve our relationship and our dog's quality of life.Press play and enjoy!How to learn more from Christine:* Connect with Christine on Facebook* Her Book (find on Amazon): Dog Breed Guide for Kids: 50 Essential Dog Breeds to Know and Love with Fun Facts and Tips for Care* *Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links that, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission.  If you don't wish to use these link you can find this book by searching Amazon.com, Target.com or BarnesandNoble.comOther resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #002: Which Type of Dog is Right for You?Playtime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Something I get asked often is how I feel about using a potty bell.  If you listened to my complete guide to potty training then you know that I don't mention using a bell at all but does that mean I don't want you to?  No go ahead...well, maybe... While I'll show my clients how to use the bell if they ask, I find myself talking them out of it more often than not.  I'm not against using a bell, I just find that it doesn't work in the way we may think.  BUT as long as our expectations are in the right place a potty bell might work for you.  So stick around until the end when I tell you exactly how to teach your dog to ring a bell to go outside.  In this episode I talk about:* Why I may hesitate to teach the bell.* Why a bell might not work the way you think it will.* Conversations I have with my clients before teaching the bell.* Reasons a potty bell might work for you.* How to teach your dog to ring a bell to go outside.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #010: Complete Guide to Potty Training Your PuppyPlaytime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans no matter where you are in your training journey.

Teaching your dog "Stay" is one of the easier cues to teach your dog...if we do it right.  And of course most of us are doing it wrong.  Stay can be a useful command ("Stay" so I can take your picture).  It can be used for safety ("Stay" while I clean up this glass that just broke).  I also use it all the time to focus an overstimulated dog.  With just a few adjustments you can build a foundation to a stronger and longer Stay. In this episode I talk about:* How to set your dog up for success.* What's wrong with the Stay-Come exercise.* How to reset them when they break.* Stay is a one syllable word.* What makes Stay different from other cues.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #012: The Most Important Part of Your Dog's Obedience TrainingPlaytime Paws Academy:  A brand new program for dog and humans in any stage of training.

Kasie comes back to teach us more about raw feeding.  This time we talk all about puppies! Plus Kasie has some advice on treats and how to start even if you feel overwhelmed.This episode is Part 2 of a two part series.  In Part 1 we talk about raw feeding more general.  Kasie has been raw feeding for 30 years and is the founder and owner of San Francisco Raw.  If you are new to raw feeding this is a great opportunity to hear from the perspective from someone who's been doing it for a while. In this episode we talk about:* How to start with a brand new puppy. * How much to feed a puppy.* What is microbiota and how does it affect our puppies health?* Poop! (can't talk about puppies without talking about poop).* Treats. * How to start if you're feeling overwhelmed. Press play and enjoy!Other resources provided by Kasie:* Raw supportive vets worldwide: https://rfvs.info/find-a-vet/* Local supplier resources for ingredients: www.eatwild.com* Nationally available prepared raw foods (alternative to Answers Pet Food which Kasie no longer recommends): https://www.kurepetfood.com/ * Nationally available prepared raw foods: https://rawdogfoodandco.com/  * Raw food consultants: https://freshfoodconsultants.org/canine-consultants* Puppy feeding guide: https://perfectlyrawsome.com/raw-feeding-puppy-guides/ * Raw feeding myths: http://rawfed.com/myths/ Related articles from Kasie's blog:* https://sfraw.blog/2016/09/14/baywoofs-september-nutrition-issue-featured-article-starting-puppies-on-a-raw-food-diet-by-kasie-maxwell/*

Maybe you've never heard of raw feeding your dog.  Maybe you have but you're not quite sure what it means.  This episode can start to answer some of your questions. Raw feeding is something that I've dabbled in but I am NO expert.  Since I do get questions about it all the time, I've decided to bring in Kasie Maxwell Grujcic to help teach us more about it.  Kasie has been raw feeding for 30 years and is the founder and owner of San Francisco Raw.  If you are new to raw feeding this is a great opportunity to hear from the perspective from someone who's been doing it for a while. This episode is Part 1 of a two part series.  In Part 2 we focus on raw feeding puppies.In this episode we talk about:* Kasie's story. * A brief history of traditional dog food.* What is raw feeding?* How it's easier than most people think.* The different ways of raw feeding. * How to start.Press play and enjoy!Other resources provided by Kasie:* Raw supportive vets worldwide: https://rfvs.info/find-a-vet/* Local supplier resources for ingredients: www.eatwild.com* Nationally available prepared raw foods (alternative to Answers Pet Food which Kasie no longer recommends): https://www.kurepetfood.com/ * Nationally available prepared raw foods: https://rawdogfoodandco.com/  * Raw food consultants: https://freshfoodconsultants.org/canine-consultants* Puppy feeding guide: https://perfectlyrawsome.com/raw-feeding-puppy-guides/ * Raw feeding myths: http://rawfed.com/myths/ Related articles from Kasie's blog:* https://sfraw.

"Practice makes perfect."  We all know that one.  Well, it's just as true for our dogs.  When we teach our dogs how to sit we know to start at step one and work them up to a reliable sit in any situation.  When we want to change a behavior (like barking, digging, leash walking, or counter surfing) it's no different. We don't usually think of it as something we have to intentionally practice but this is exactly what's we need to do. We think about how we want the behavior to change in the moment and try to work there when really we have to back up a whole bunch of steps and practice in easier more controllable situations. It's like trying to teach someone algebra, when they don't know how to add and substract.  Our dogs are no different. That's why it's the power of practice that will teach our dogs how we want them to behave. In this episode I talk about:* The difference between changing a behavior and just reacting to it. * What I mean by intentional practice.* When management is appropriate.* How to set up easy situations to practice for the hard ones.* Why it's important to set up controlled situations. * Why it's important to start at step one and why we always want to start at step 8.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #047: How to Handle a Reactive Dog on a LeashYNP #050: The 3 Most Common Leash Training QuestionsYNP #066: How to Stop a Dog From Barking (Part 1)YNP #067: How to Stop a Dog From Barking (Part 2)YOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy.

In part one we talked about demand barking.  Here in part two I go into detail about alert barking.  Alert barking is when your dog is barking at something.  A dog out the window, a noise like a doorbell, your neighbor, etc.  This type of barking usually starts in as your puppy gets older.  Once they reach adolescence this instinct kicks in. It also feel really good to them!  It burns energy and relieves boredom.  So the habit can start very easily.  There are a few ways to handle this type of barking.  Unlike demand barking where we ignore and disengage, here we want to interrupt and redirect.  Listen now to learn the difference!In this episode I talk about:* Summary of what we talked about in Part 1.* What alert barking is and how it's different from demand barking.* The different techniques to handle alert barking.* Examples of different scenarios and how to handle them. * How to recognize when they are barking out of fear.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #027: How to Handle a Shy DogYNP #063: My 7 Guidelines for Socializing Your DogYNP #066: How to Stop a Dog From Barking (Part 1)See Part 1's show notes for links to these episodes:Episodes to help with barking while crate trainingEpisode to help with barking because of separation anxietyEpisode to help with barking while on a leashOther resources:YOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy.

Barking comes in many different forms. This makes how to stop a dog from barking more complicated than we think.  We can't just ask "how do I stop my dog from barking?" and get an answer because why they are barking plays a significant role in how we stop them.  Are they barking in the crate?  Are they barking at you?  Are they barking at your neighbor?  Do they only bark when on a leash?  Even if you answered "yes" to more than one, how you address the barking will change depending on the situation.  In this two-part series, I'm going dive deep into two different types of barking demand barking (part 1) and alert barking (part 2).  I have some previous episodes that go into some other types of barking.  I've listed those episodes below. In this episode I talk about:* Why stopping a dog from barking is complicated.* The different types of barking.* What techniques I don't use.* How to address demand barking. * Examples of different scenarios and how to handle them.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:Episodes to help with barking while crate training:YNP #005: Crate Training: How (and Why) to Make Their Crate Your Dog’s Best FriendYNP Special Edition: Q&A Tuesday – Crate TrainingYNP #028: 5 Reasons to Use the Crate When You’re Home.Episode to help with barking because of separation anxiety:YNP #022: How to Prevent and Treat Separation AnxietyEpisode to help with barking while on a leash:YNP #047: How to Handle a Reactive Dog on a LeashOther resources:YOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy.

Allison is back with some more great tips on how to take better photos of your dog!Who doesn't want that perfect Instagramable, frameable, background photo of our dog.  But even with the 200 photos we have on our phones sometimes it eludes us!Back in episode 52 Allison Shamrell of Allison Shamrell Pet Photography told us all about how to take great photos with just a cell phone and so much more.  Well, I've brought her back to answer some more questions on how to get that perfect shot!In this episode Allison talks about:* How to approach a photo session with your dog.* How to photograph two dogs together.* How to handle a dog that won't sit still.* How to photograph a dog with a dark face. * A free resource on how to get your dog to look at the camera.Press play and enjoy! Allison's Freebie!On top of all the great tips she gives us throughout the episode she also put together a free gift for us:5 Ways to Get Your Dog to Look at the Camera*I've already downloaded it and I have to say there are some juicy tips in there! *This link will take you to Allison's webpage.  I have no affiliation with any links or downloads within that page.  That being said, I've requested the download myself and I highly recommend it. Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #052: How to Take Better Photos of Your Dog with Allison ShamrellAllison's Free Facebook Group: How to Take Better Photos of Your DogAllison's Instagram: @takebetterphotosofyourdogAllison's website: Allison Shamrell Pet PhotographyYOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy.

I'm back to burst some bubbles (POP!).  Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my fenced-in yard just like most dog owners.  But just like with most things that make our lives easier there's a downside.  I'm here to help you minimize them!My goal is to make sure that you and your dog can use your backyard in the best way possible.  And that means there's some training that needs to happen before you just let them loose!This applies if you have a puppy or a full grown dog!In this episode I talk about:* Why letting a puppy have the run of the backyard too soon can backfire.* How to handle a dog that already has bad habits.* How a fenced-in backyard can ruin your recall.* How to work on a stronger recall in your backyard. * When it's time to let your dog run around unsupervised.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #019: The Downside of a Fenced-in Backyard (Part 1)YNP #051: How to Get a Stronger RecallYOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy.

Socializing your dog, especially when they are young, is SUPER DUPER important.  If you have listened to me at all then this is not news to you. You know that you have to expose your dog to many different people, places, environments, sounds, textures, and dogs.  This is what creates a confident, well-adjusted dog that you can take anywhere and not have to worry about them.  BUT we need to do it right.  That is why I developed my 7 guidelines for socializing your dog.  Not only do we want to expose our dog to all these different things and situations but we need to make sure that we create a good association!  In fact, that's exactly where we start with Socialization Guideline #1!In this episode I talk about:* Why socialization is important to do at a young age (3-16 weeks!).* How to handle a shy dog.* How to handle it when things go bad.* How you, the human, need to act. * How to create a good association.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #021: Balancing Vaccines and SocializationYNP Episode: How to Socialize Your Puppy During Social DistancingYOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy. ...

How many times have you gone to Youtube to find a new dog trick and it's a three-minute video with a dog that already knows the trick?Or you teach your dog a new trick in class to go home and they act like they never heard of it before.  Truth is, training doesn't happen in a straight line.  Yes, there is usually a set of steps we have to follow but those steps don't go as smoothly as the video, book, or class make it look. In this episode, I go session by session describing my journey of teaching my dog the trick "spin".  I'm not going to teach you HOW to teach "spin" (see the formal steps below for that).  My goal is to illustrate what those videos, classes, and books don't talk about.  The ups, downs, adjustments, mistakes, setbacks, wins, etc.  In this episode I talk about:* How my expectations immediately got me in trouble.* The adjustments I made when Miriah was struggling to learn what I wanted.* A brief cameo from Ollie and how he learned.* How I handled successful sessions and wins. * What needs to happen to deem the command a success.Press play and enjoy!Other resources mentioned and related to this episode:YNP #012: The Most Important Part of Your Dog’s Obedience TrainingYNP #030: The First 4 Steps to Teaching Any New CommandYOUR Perfect Puppy: 4-week online training course for you and your new puppy. How to Teach Your Dog the Trick "Spin"*  Using a treat in your hand, lure your dog to walk in a circle.  Don't worry about the size of the circle at this point.  If you have trouble getting the full circle start to reward them when they reach 1/4 or 1/2 way and work them up to the full circle.*  Once your dog is walking in a full circle, tighten up the circle if necessary and start to shorten the lure.  You want to go from using your full arm to walk them in a circle to just using your finger and wrist to point in a half-circle.  If you are over 90% sure your dog will follow your lure at this point you can start to say the command "spin" (or "twirl", your choice).  Say it only once and DO NOT expect them to listen to it.  Use the lure to guarantee they will spin when they hear the word. *  Take away the treat from your lure hand and only use the hand signal.  You are still rewarding them with treats when they perform the behavior. *  Once you are down to the hand signal (90% sure they will listen to it) start to teach the command.  Say the command first, wait on second and then use your lure. Do this until they start to spin before you need to hand signal.  * If your dog performs "spin" without the food lure (remember still treating but there's no food in your lure hand), with just the hand signal and no command, with the command and no hand signal then just keep practicing until the trick is solid!Ways to up the challenge:Teach both directions (one can be "spin" the other "twirl")Teach multiple spins in a rowAdd distance (can you tell them to spin from across the room)Add distractions